276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Since you're putting a new cam in the engine, you should consider having the bottoms of the lifters resurfaced as well. Pete on here can do that for you - I highly recommend having it done (is not that expensive and if it helps the cam live a longer life, it is a good thing).

This type of advice is very helpful. Thank you. I do however have a plan B and am at that fork in the road. I have sorted and chosen my valves very carefully, some would say 'obsessively'. I settled on 12 exhausts and 12 intake style so I can make a few newbie errors in grinding. I have 10 more exhaust type with good thick margins and great stems but they are too short, having stems ground in the past. I cannot imagine a lash cap short enough. The exhausts I've picked are suitable, but If I use adjustables I could then introduce the 10 shorties into the mix and use the thinner margin exhaust valves as intakes. The adjustables pictured here have had the bottom buffed on top of an old oily piece of scothchbrite and I think they look better than the solids do on the bottom. Going one step further I recall a post by fellow obsessor who used adjustables and with measuring set them up with loctite as 'semi-adjustable'. If I err on the long side I could do a light grind on the stem when needed. Sooo, any comments on the condition of these used adjustables and my plan B? If I take the other fork I will send the solids to Pete.
In closing, yes, I could just go and buy all new valve components and take all this stuff to the scrapyard as I'm planning a run next month anyhow. I coulda made a lot of dough in the woodshop and paid for the new parts twice. But do we ask the avid fisherman to tally the price of his gleaming new boat, the moorage, the fuel, insurance, bait and depreciation? Heck, this dude walks right by the fish market where salmon is a mere 20.00 lb. And besides, I love working in my new shop annex....... oops, forgot the pics, will add

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

This type of advice is very helpful. Thank you. I do however have a plan B and am at that fork in the road. I have sorted and chosen my valves very carefully, some would say 'obsessively'. I settled on 12 exhausts and 12 intake style so I can make a few newbie errors in grinding. I have 10 more exhaust type with good thick margins and great stems but they are too short, having stems ground in the past. I cannot imagine a lash cap short enough. The exhausts I've picked are suitable, but If I use adjustables I could then introduce the 10 shorties into the mix and use the thinner margin exhaust valves as intakes. The adjustables pictured here have had the bottom buffed on top of an old oily piece of scothchbrite and I think they look better than the solids do on the bottom. Going one step further I recall a post by fellow obsessor who used adjustables and with measuring set them up with loctite as 'semi-adjustable'. If I err on the long side I could do a light grind on the stem when needed. Sooo, any comments on the condition of these used adjustables and my plan B? If I take the other fork I will send the solids to Pete.
In closing, yes, I could just go and buy all new valve components and take all this stuff to the scrapyard as I'm planning a run next month anyhow. I coulda made a lot of dough in the woodshop and paid for the new parts twice. But do we ask the avid fisherman to tally the price of his gleaming new boat, the moorage, the fuel, insurance, bait and depreciation? Heck, this dude walks right by the fish market where salmon is a mere 20.00 lb. And besides, I love working in my new shop annex....... oops, forgot the pics, will add

[flatford8]

That’s a very “homey” looking spot Bud!.......no wonder you like hanging out in there.....where’s the cold beverage containment system?.........Mark

[GB SISSON]

Mark, A few years back when Mt Pickett Woodworking was in full swing with 3 employees, this 14x 28 'side shop' was used as a storage area for obsolete tooling, unused lumber and junk that was in our way in our daily grind. As we wound down to just me I decided to make it into a sort of 'machine shop' ( in quotes as I am certainly NO machinest). That was my winter project 2023-2024 as I already had 4 jailbar era trucks and building another seemed , well kinda borderline weird. Even for me.. Then it got addictive and I cleaned and organized the garage 2 bay side. Then 40 years of clutter in the woodshop. Homey is pretty important to me.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Mark, A few years back when Mt Pickett Woodworking was in full swing with 3 employees, this 14x 28 'side shop' was used as a storage area for obsolete tooling, unused lumber and junk that was in our way in our daily grind. As we wound down to just me I decided to make it into a sort of 'machine shop' ( in quotes as I am certainly NO machinest). That was my winter project 2023-2024 as I already had 4 jailbar era trucks and building another seemed , well kinda borderline weird. Even for me.. Then it got addictive and I cleaned and organized the garage 2 bay side. Then 40 years of clutter in the woodshop. Homey is pretty important to me.

Looks like a Rockwell painting...

[GB SISSON]

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Got ya workin' overtime there Pete! This afternoon I wanted to do some tests with the sets of Johnson lifters in case I take that fork. I knew there were some duds so I went through and found one that wouldn't hold 10 in/lbs and started with that.General consences is a nice tight one will hold 60 in/lbs. I pulled the cap screw and compressed it. Threaded back in it held 80 so I ran it in and out about 5 times and it holds 60. This 20" adjustable wrench must weigh at least 3 lbs and it takes the reading to 45 in/lbs. I repeated this procedure on 4 more lifters, but less oomph on the vice. If you were to do this test I think you'd agree that 40 in/lbs should be more than ample to prevent movement. Far better results than I have had with the overseas lifters. I guess I can skip the loctite.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Got ya workin' overtime there Pete! This afternoon I wanted to do some tests with the sets of Johnson lifters in case I take that fork. I knew there were some duds so I went through and found one that wouldn't hold 10 in/lbs and started with that.General consences is a nice tight one will hold 60 in/lbs. I pulled the cap screw and compressed it. Threaded back in it held 80 so I ran it in and out about 5 times and it holds 60. This 20" adjustable wrench must weigh at least 3 lbs and it takes the reading to 45 in/lbs. I repeated this procedure on 4 more lifters, but less oomph on the vice. If you were to do this test I think you'd agree that 40 in/lbs should be more than ample to prevent movement. Far better results than I have had with the overseas lifters. I guess I can skip the loctite.

[cas3]

That is one man sized wrench! I'll see that, and raise you one man sized vice grip.
I know, its brand X, but its so big it actually works. Got it at an old friends garage sale as he was in his last stretch of life from cancer. He smiled when I told him I bought it, so its a good memory too.

[flatford8]

I’ve never seen a 15” pair of vise grips !!........Gary...that is definitely a blood pressure reducing area.....you’re wife must have needed the sack of flour (or sugar) you used the last time you were conducting a scientific experiment.....keep up the good work ‘Ol Boy.....Mark

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by cas3

That is one man sized wrench! I'll see that, and raise you one man sized vice grip.
I know, its brand X, but its so big it actually works. Got it at an old friends garage sale as he was in his last stretch of life from cancer. He smiled when I told him I bought it, so its a good memory too.

[GB SISSON]

Gotta love a pair of vice grips like that! I have massaged these adjustable lifters til they hold 40-60 in/lbs. Tomorrow I will drill holes in my lifter bores with my new 12" long 3/16" bit and after that there will finally be some assembly on the horizon. Hopefully not too many more decisions to make. I found what must be an NOS aluminum 8ba cam gear. I also found quite a few oil pump drive gears and various covers. My merc crank didn't come with a gear so I gotta pull one from an 8ba crank. 3 jaw puller? I have the required half bell, oil pan with the aluminum plate (with 2 long and 2 short bolts), starter plate, and surfaced flywheel for a 10" clutch. What do I want for rod nuts? Chev type? Also need the pilot bearing for T5 swap.

[cas3]

I believe you can just flip the cover of the oil pump over, to get a new surface. Check it with some 320 grit on a flat surface, like your fancy grinder or table saw bed.

Next, use your new toy...er, I mean lathe, and put a center on the crank bolt to use a puller for the gear....carry on

[Bored&Stroked]

It is best to have an actual gear puller . . . if you use a 3-jaw you'll probably only get it onto the teeth and it is very easy to break them off. Ask me how I know such things! LOL

[GB SISSON]

Thank you gentlemen. I have a couple of 3 jaw pullers. What makes a gear puller different? Maybe I can adapt something I already have. I just ordered arp rod nuts and a pilot bearing to adapt the T5. On this aluminum cam gear I see the bolt holes have a step. Does it require a shouldered fastening?

[KiWinUS]

Yes they are a special shoulder bolt

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Yes they are a special shoulder bolt

Thanks, and this morning I looked at that gear and remembered the step was in the cam bolt holes, not the gear. I see multiple cover plates for oil pump gear in my stash. All are cast and not reversible. I also now see that the early blocks have the idler gear shaft in the cover and 8ba have a removeable shaft which is missing in my block. I see there are shafts in blocks here, but all my 8ba blocks are in stands so I will have to hoist one out to get access. Is this shaft pressed in? I see the big circlip to retain the gear. Is it a pain to get out? Oh, and the crank gear... I pulled two 8ba cranks from a chest high shelf, gasp, but both have the gear. This harvesting of parts is becoming an actual chore. I think I'll go back to my paying work in the cabinet shop where the livin' is easy and my paws stay clean.

[flatjack9]

The shaft on the 8BA is pressed in.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

The shaft on the 8BA is pressed in.

Maybe I should find someone who has that shaft instead of driving one out. I'm pretty sure I can get a new one in there. I have some monster C clamps, brass hammer etc. Anybody have a picture of what it looks like out of the block? I still might remove one if it isn't a huge deal. Are they a real bugger or a tap tap tap with a brass drift?

[KiWinUS]

Slide hammer. They are threaded.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Slide hammer. They are threaded.

Hey, sounds like a lathe project. So Skip, you still callin' that thing a 'toy'?
Great news KiWin!