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06-18-2021, 01:15 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,205
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1940 Ford Paint
I have checked my car and the proper paint color to do my 1940 DLX roadster is Mandarin Maroon . Do any of you know where I can obtain the proper paint and what the number is. Also if anyone has recently painted their car what supplies would I need to do the job right. Is a gallon sufficient to do the final coat. Any help or guidance is much appreciated Tom
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06-18-2021, 01:31 PM | #2 |
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Location: Mill Valley, Calif.
Posts: 120
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
I don't have the number but you can get that paint at TCP Global in San Diego, Ca.
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06-18-2021, 02:32 PM | #3 |
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
Many thanks Tom
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06-18-2021, 05:30 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 10,873
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
Here's a chart of interest.
https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorco...940&manuf=Ford |
06-19-2021, 09:01 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
Tom, 1940 Ford Roadsters were only made in Australia which are very rare as only 20 were made.Roadster did not wave windows in the doors as Convertables did.
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06-19-2021, 09:03 AM | #6 |
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
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06-19-2021, 10:50 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shelton, WA
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
The Restoration Shop line of paint at TCP Global would have what you want. I used their Cloud Mist Gray on my 40 business coupe. Happy with results.
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06-19-2021, 11:03 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 492
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Re: 1940 Ford Paint
How serious are you about this? By that I mean how rich and authentic, and can you "see" vintage colors as they should be. The majority of Mandarin Maroons are made with oxide tints and toners. Things changed drastically in refinish materials and the depth of finish is taking a back seat to durability. New formulations lose the depth outdoors and take on a plastic, almost opaque plexi look. You can combat this, not everybody cares, but if you ask a supplier to make the color with transparent tints vs oxides where possible the difference is astounding. Also, paint the color over a minimum of red oxide sealer or even better a coat of even black 1st. Don't feel bad if you can't see the difference or don't care, this exercise isn't for everyone. If you get a couple pint samples and experiment it might be worthwhile. And no, I don't think a gallon is enough if you do a single stage finish that will be sanded and polished. 3-4 coats are required and you'll remove 1 full coat in the cut and buff stage. Also, since all of these colors are not "off the shelf" any longer you'll want an extra qt just for repairs in the future without the angst of color matching. I'd suggest 6 total for single stage. VENTILATE AND WEAR A RESPIRATOR. Step out between coats for fresh air too. Your car isn't worth a broken fingernail, so surely not worth getting a sensitized urethane reaction to your lungs.
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