The Ford Barn

Baypac · 07-03-2018, 07:01 PM

Second day with the new vehicle. Changed the oil, and about 6 quarts of water and oil emulsion drained out. Obviously other issues than the compression in cylinder #3. Replaced the Oil and will pull the head tomorrow.

The prior owner said that it was running. A member of his local club said that it always got him home. Maybe it was limping a bit on the last trip.

Several questions:
It was converted to 12 volts and a modern points. I am a fan of the original distributor and ease of setting the timing.

Can I change it back to an original distributor? I have two that I rebuilt to factory specifications.

Will the original condenser work with 12 volts or do I need a special condenser?

Does the coil have to be a special 12 volt version?

Any ideas on how the water gets into the oil? I suspect it will be associated with the # 3 cylinder.

The throttle and spark levers are really loose. Any way to tighten them so they will stay in place? Perhaps I can bend the plates to give more friction on the levers.

daveymc29 · 07-03-2018, 09:56 PM

You replaced the oil? I'm not following your logic as you then say you will pull the head tomorrow?
Confused (with Bill and dog I bet)

1930artdeco · 07-03-2018, 10:17 PM

It sounds like there is a blown head gasket around #3 which is where the water and oil mixed. That may also restore compression in 3 when replaced.

Yes you can go back to a stock dist. And I think the condenser is ok but the coil will have to be switched out.

My thoughts.....

Mike

Baypac · 07-04-2018, 12:32 AM

I plan to pop the head by starting the engine. I already had the oil and hopefully it can stay in the engine and still be good. Maybe I wasted $20.00, but I don't plan to drop the pan.

Baypac · 07-04-2018, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

It sounds like there is a blown head gasket around #3 which is where the water and oil mixed. That may also restore compression in 3 when replaced.

Yes you can go back to a stock dist. And I think the condenser is ok but the coil will have to be switched out.

My thoughts.....

Mike

12 volt coil will work with a 6 volt condenser?

Thanks,

jhowes · 07-04-2018, 08:46 AM

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I am also a bit confused on your procedure. First if an engine is unknown to you and hasn't run in some time, then the following procedures seem prudent to follow.
1. Drop the pan and clean out the sludge if any. Not that hard of a process.
2. Clean out the valve chamber to be sure oil will find its' way to the main bearings.
3. Now pull the head to see what is going on and fixed it.
3.5 While the pan is off, check the bearing fit and remove shims if necessary.
4. Put everything back together, time it and clean out the gas line and carburetor.
5.Enjoy, you should be good to go.

Jack

Flathead · 07-04-2018, 11:00 AM

All that water in the pan is a bummer. Hope the head gasket is a fix for it.

Baypac · 07-04-2018, 11:25 AM

Hi Jack,

Thanks for the good suggestions. I bought it from an elderly couple who were moving into assisted living and did not have space for the car. According to the previous owner, it was restored about 12 years ago, and only has about 1000 miles on the rebuilt engine.

If what he told me was true, then the first problem to solve is the water in the oil. I plan to pull the head and check the head gasket and for cracks in the block. I will also pull the manifolds to check for leaks and to get good access to the valves. The exhaust manifold has been repaired with hi-temp cement at one time, so I will replace it. I can also check for cylinder ridges to get a good idea if there really is only 1000 miles on the new rebuild.

If it runs OK after the top end work, then I will drive it for a while and watch for noise from the rods and mains. I think the rear main is not too bad because there was no oil leaking after about 15 minutes running on the new oil. The exhaust from the motor was so noisy on three cylinders, that I couldn't hear anything from the bottom of the motor.

My last step will be to drop the pan. Getting the pan off is not too big a job, but one of my least favorite positions in life is lying on my back under a Model A with oil dripping in my face, I have done it 3 times, and hope to avoid a 4th time.

Baypac · 07-04-2018, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flathead

All that water in the pan is a bummer. Hope the head gasket is a fix for it.

yes, me too. Also, hopefully not too much damage to the bearings from being lubricated with a water/oil emulsion for who knows how long.

Tom Wesenberg · 07-04-2018, 10:17 PM

I bought a block and later found a bad crack in the valve chamber from frozen water.

Baypac · 07-05-2018, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I bought a block and later found a bad crack in the valve chamber from frozen water.

Hi Tom,

I am hopeful about the engine and the previous owners honesty. He was into touring, and the car has a 12 volt conversion, modern distributor, oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge and Mitchell overdrive. I am just waiting on gaskets right now.

07-03-2018, 07:01 PM	#1
Baypac Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: California Posts: 63	my new 1930 closed cab pickup Second day with the new vehicle. Changed the oil, and about 6 quarts of water and oil emulsion drained out. Obviously other issues than the compression in cylinder #3. Replaced the Oil and will pull the head tomorrow. The prior owner said that it was running. A member of his local club said that it always got him home. Maybe it was limping a bit on the last trip. Several questions: It was converted to 12 volts and a modern points. I am a fan of the original distributor and ease of setting the timing. Can I change it back to an original distributor? I have two that I rebuilt to factory specifications. Will the original condenser work with 12 volts or do I need a special condenser? Does the coil have to be a special 12 volt version? Any ideas on how the water gets into the oil? I suspect it will be associated with the # 3 cylinder. The throttle and spark levers are really loose. Any way to tighten them so they will stay in place? Perhaps I can bend the plates to give more friction on the levers. Last edited by Baypac; 07-03-2018 at 07:03 PM. Reason: forgot info

07-03-2018, 09:56 PM	#2
daveymc29 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 1,554	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup You replaced the oil? I'm not following your logic as you then say you will pull the head tomorrow? Confused (with Bill and dog I bet)

07-04-2018, 12:32 AM	#4
Baypac Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: California Posts: 63	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup I plan to pop the head by starting the engine. I already had the oil and hopefully it can stay in the engine and still be good. Maybe I wasted $20.00, but I don't plan to drop the pan. Last edited by Baypac; 07-04-2018 at 12:37 AM. Reason: forgot info

07-04-2018, 08:46 AM	#6
jhowes Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: upstate NY near Mass border Posts: 789	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I am also a bit confused on your procedure. First if an engine is unknown to you and hasn't run in some time, then the following procedures seem prudent to follow. 1. Drop the pan and clean out the sludge if any. Not that hard of a process. 2. Clean out the valve chamber to be sure oil will find its' way to the main bearings. 3. Now pull the head to see what is going on and fixed it. 3.5 While the pan is off, check the bearing fit and remove shims if necessary. 4. Put everything back together, time it and clean out the gas line and carburetor. 5.Enjoy, you should be good to go. Jack

07-04-2018, 11:00 AM	#7
Flathead Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 1,498	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup All that water in the pan is a bummer. Hope the head gasket is a fix for it.

07-03-2018, 10:17 PM	#3
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,550	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup It sounds like there is a blown head gasket around #3 which is where the water and oil mixed. That may also restore compression in 3 when replaced. Yes you can go back to a stock dist. And I think the condenser is ok but the coil will have to be switched out. My thoughts..... Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

07-04-2018, 11:25 AM	#8
Baypac Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: California Posts: 63	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup Hi Jack, Thanks for the good suggestions. I bought it from an elderly couple who were moving into assisted living and did not have space for the car. According to the previous owner, it was restored about 12 years ago, and only has about 1000 miles on the rebuilt engine. If what he told me was true, then the first problem to solve is the water in the oil. I plan to pull the head and check the head gasket and for cracks in the block. I will also pull the manifolds to check for leaks and to get good access to the valves. The exhaust manifold has been repaired with hi-temp cement at one time, so I will replace it. I can also check for cylinder ridges to get a good idea if there really is only 1000 miles on the new rebuild. If it runs OK after the top end work, then I will drive it for a while and watch for noise from the rods and mains. I think the rear main is not too bad because there was no oil leaking after about 15 minutes running on the new oil. The exhaust from the motor was so noisy on three cylinders, that I couldn't hear anything from the bottom of the motor. My last step will be to drop the pan. Getting the pan off is not too big a job, but one of my least favorite positions in life is lying on my back under a Model A with oil dripping in my face, I have done it 3 times, and hope to avoid a 4th time. Last edited by Baypac; 07-04-2018 at 11:27 AM. Reason: forgot info, english corrections

07-04-2018, 10:17 PM	#10
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: my new 1930 closed cab pickup I bought a block and later found a bad crack in the valve chamber from frozen water.