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Old 01-25-2021, 12:16 PM   #1
Moesby
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Default 1935 Ford ignition switch

I took my ignition switch out to replace brush inside. Pieces fell out on floorboard and I canít figure out how to put it back together. 😂 Anybody have a detailed pic of how the pieces go back together?! Help wanted!🤷🏿www.jalopyjournal.net♂️ Thanks
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Old 01-25-2021, 02:41 PM   #2
Terry,OH
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Default Re: 1935 Ford ignition switch

The flat piece of metal goes on first with the small bent tab inserted into the rear slot of the ignition switch on/off lever. then the cup with the movable switch contact and finally the cover.
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Old 01-25-2021, 03:03 PM   #3
petehoovie
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Default Re: 1935 Ford ignition switch

It's tricky to reassemble. The ignition switch contact brush pivots on the shoulder of the small hole in the bottom ignition switch housing. Now, place the terminal plate over the top of the housing. You'll have to find a way to hold the assembly together. I used a very thin ty-rap/zip-tie. After attaching the assembly to the column drop with the two screws, I cut and removed the ty-rap. See this thread > https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...tch+reassembly
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:42 PM   #4
Don Rogers
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Default Re: 1935 Ford ignition switch

Here's an exploded view of the assembly done by Gary Tosel a while back.
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File Type: jpg Column Lock Assy.jpg (69.3 KB, 180 views)
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Old 01-25-2021, 09:45 PM   #5
Tim Brown
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Default Re: 1935 Ford ignition switch

Thats a great drawing. Printed for future reference.
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Old 01-26-2021, 05:24 AM   #6
mercman from oz
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Default Re: 1935 Ford ignition switch

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Thanks Don for adding this very detailed Drawing to this Thread. It is very helpful.
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Old 01-26-2021, 01:03 PM   #7
DavidG
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Default Re: 1935 Ford ignition switch

Somewhat off topic, but that helpful diagram that Don posted is slightly different for '35-'36 phaetons and roadsters. The bolts attaching the housing to the dash insert from the bottom, not from the top and the holes in the housing are bored out to eliminate the threads. The part on the inside of the dash (18) came in two forms, the first being a hefty steel block with raised ends to clear the bottom of the speedometer and the second a steel stamping folded over to be of sufficient thickness to be threaded for the attaching bolts like the steel block. You can always tell a housing that was originally used on a phaeton or roadster as it lacks threads in the two attaching holes at the top.
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