32 Model B Cabriolet steering adjustment

[John Helm]

Thanks for all the great responses. Right now, there's way too much play in the assembly with the upper race being flush with the top of the housing. I'll depress it until everything is centered and held in place properly. The upper race says "Made in USA Bower 90". I just wanted to make sure that I have this part is reassembled correctly before following the instructions in the December '32 Ford Service Bulletin.

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The large washer on the RH side of your photo above is a special spring. That spring depresses the upper bearing race. The spring is responsible for the pre-load on the bearings. When you finish adjusting the gasket shims the spring washer will be about 50% compressed. In service if the upper race moves slightly (<.030") from jars from the road surface or stress from a turn the spring washer resets the upper race. What is the manufacturer number of the upper race you have?

[DavidG]

John,

Sorry, but something is amiss. The large washer that is referred to by Terry in post #39 must be in contact with the upper bearing race in order for it to exert any pressure on the race. If you have end-to-end play with the bearing race top flush with the housing the large washer won't take up that end play if that washer is completely relaxed, let alone with addition of a gaskets of various thicknesses for fine tuning of the preload. Either the bottom bearing and its race and/or the top bearing and its race is incorrect or worn beyond usefulness for this application as there should be no end play on the steering worm gear.

[John Helm]

Yes, thanks for the info. I had the upper race flush with the top of the box surface just for the photo. I actually depressed it so that the worm gear would have no detectable end to end play but would still spin freely. It depressed with minimal resistance. I installed the spring washer which fit in almost flush to the top with part of it proud of the top in order for the housing cap to compress it. After installing the new gasket/shim set, I installed the housing cap with the bolts barely tight. (Maybe 1/2 turn past finger tight). This resulted in the worm gear shaft binding up. I disassembled it to see if the lower race wasn't seated in all the way but it actually was. I gave it a few more taps with a flat punch just to make sure but the same problem resulted after reassembly. The only new parts so far are the lower race, both bearings and the gasket set. I think there are 2 thicker gaskets and 4 thin ones. I see no difference in the dimensions of the new bearings compared to the originals. Should I just install more shims until the shaft spins without binding? I really don't know how to measure the end play to not less than .002" and not more than .010" as stipulated on page 83 of the Dec '32 service bulletin. Thanks for your help!!

Originally Posted by DavidG

John,

Sorry, but something is amiss. The large washer that is referred to by Terry in post #39 must be in contact with the upper bearing race in order for it to exert any pressure on the race. If you have end-to-end play with the bearing race top flush with the housing the large washer won't take up that end play if that washer is completely relaxed, let alone with addition of a gaskets of various thicknesses for fine tuning of the preload. Either the bottom bearing and its race and/or the top bearing and its race is incorrect or worn beyond usefulness for this application as there should be no end play on the steering worm gear.

[John Helm]

Actually I was mistaken. The new bearings from Dennis Carpenter measure .442" in height and the originals measure .419". This is what's been taking up the space and binding the assembly. I'll try reassembling with the original bearings tomorrow to see if it works. Then I'll either have to find a new set with those measurements or machine these replacements to match the originals. We'll see how it goes...

Originally Posted by John Helm

Yes, thanks for the info. I had the upper race flush with the top of the box surface just for the photo. I actually depressed it so that the worm gear would have no detectable end to end play but would still spin freely. It depressed with minimal resistance. I installed the spring washer which fit in almost flush to the top with part of it proud of the top in order for the housing cap to compress it. After installing the new gasket/shim set, I installed the housing cap with the bolts barely tight. (Maybe 1/2 turn past finger tight). This resulted in the worm gear shaft binding up. I disassembled it to see if the lower race wasn't seated in all the way but it actually was. I gave it a few more taps with a flat punch just to make sure but the same problem resulted after reassembly. The only new parts so far are the lower race, both bearings and the gasket set. I think there are 2 thicker gaskets and 4 thin ones. I see no difference in the dimensions of the new bearings compared to the originals. Should I just install more shims until the shaft spins without binding? I really don't know how to measure the end play to not less than .002" and not more than .010" as stipulated on page 83 of the Dec '32 service bulletin. Thanks for your help!!

[Bored&Stroked]

I've never looked at these bearings - so consider this in my post! If there is a typical 'cone' on either end and they're "too tall", then you might consider bringing them to a machine shop that has a precision surface grinder. You could probably take 11 thousands off the "thicker ends" and that might allow your to gain the clearance that you need. I frequently use my surface grinder to "tune" things like this - where I need control over exact clearances.

If the original bearings are good, just throw them back in there . . .