Hot Restart

[bbook]

After my last trip with my 36 1.5 ton, I couldn't restart upon my return and couldn't find spark. I swapped coils and replaced the condenser with a IH 200 after consulting this board and all was well.

Today, upon arrival at my destination in 90 degree heat (very hot for W. WA), I had to crank for a while before it started and the starter turned much faster than normal. After it cooled, it started quickly with normal starter speed and did the same during a couple of stops on the way home. Does anybody have a possible explanation for the strange starter behavior?

[WestCoast]

as for the hard starting I think the fuel was boiled out of the carb into the intake manifold flooding the engine, as for the starter turning faster you had good contact from battery to starter when every thing was cool, poor grounds or wrong sizes batt cables will cause slow turning starter(engine) because of increased resistance in the cables, heat causes increased resistance, that's why you should never use an exhaust manifold stud for a battery ground

[scooder]

West coast,
He said it turned faster when it was hot, not slower.
Why it would do that, I don't know, I've only had them go slower, or same speed when hot.
Martin.

[Lawrie]

maybe the oil was thinner when hot and thus easier to turn the engine
Lawrie

[Terry,OH]

How does the vehicle run when cold and hot? Could you have a couple of valves sticking erratically, reducing compression allowing the engine to turn over faster??

[WestCoast]

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scrooder, your right, miss read the post, it could be as lawrie said, thinner oil, especially oil in trans, when hot its a lot thinner, even in neutral there is a lot of gears turning in the trans

[bbook]

The engine ran well while cold and hot. I thought about stuck valves, but there is no engine performance indication. I agree that the carburetor may have boiled over or there was vapor lock, as I could smell gas. WestCoast could be right about the thinned oil allowing the starter to turn faster. I should just be glad it started, but it was strange. I'm still at that stage soon after a restoration where I'm trying to develop the confidence that I can head out and return without incident. You know...carrying lots of tools, spare parts and tow strap. Thanks for the help.

[Johnnydidd]

Use an electric fuel pump, shut off pump and let run out of gas, then to start turn on pump starts right up, I do this on my 53

[Tinker]

Won't start when hot, cools down, starts right up...

It sounds like a coil issue still. Is the coil new repo? another old one swapped out for the previous one, or skip rebuilt.

[bbook]

Well, I know there have been many threads about presumed vapor lock problems actually being bad coils, but I do believe that Westcoast was right that the fuel was boiling out of the carb bowl. I found a phenolic spacer to put between the carb and intake manifold and haven't experienced difficulty restarting when hot since I made the change. But I still carry a spare coil.

[Lawrie]

On my recent trip away in the 33 I took my infa red laser temp gun,
Just to check,
there was a 25 deg C difference between the top of the inlet manifold and the bottom of the carb,
I have one of those spacer things on it, a good thing.
Lawrie

[bbook]

I'm going to try Lawrie's heat test as well. By the way, that extra coil I am carrying indicates it has an internal resistor. If I leave my wiring with the stock external resistor in place, will the combination of the internal and external resistors cause a problem?