32 Outside Door Handle Issue

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Passenger door will not open from the outside - the latch just sticks out enough to prevent it. First pic shows how the inside handle retracts the latch all the way in. Second pic shows how the outside handle leaves the latch out. Third pic shows how there is play in the handle and where it is pictured is where It first starts to retract the latch. Sprayed some Kroil within to loosen things up but no good.

I would appreciate any input - thanks

[DavidG]

Have you removed the door handle to check for wear on the shank of the handle where it engages the latch? If so and there is no material wear on the shank, then the excess play is in the latch itself or, while unlikely, perhaps the shank of the handle is loose in the handle itself.

[Kerk]

B e sure that the door lock is UN Locked. I had this issue once years ago and if it isn't could be the problem. I closed the door and I was able to get in by moving the handle inside some how. I remember it well!! Someone else may be able to explain this better. kerk

[Krylon32]

I have the same issue with the right door of my 5 window coupe. Inside handle opens the door latch completely but occasionally the outside handle takes a couple tries to get the door open. I have no play in the handle. I panic a little when that happens. Greasing the striker lightly with white grease did help but than can be annoying when crawling in and trying to avoid grease on your clothes.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Thanks for the replies, gents - door is unlocked and no I have not checked for shaft tightness in the handle. I know I replaced springs in my old 40 - I think that was the door handle. Different colors denoted different years? Anyway, I would like to NOT have to remove/replace the latch. Driver side looks like it was replaced at one time - passenger is probably an original ....

[Krylon32]

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Forgot I have new springs and the good handles. I got the springs from United Pacific.

[TJ]

I suspect some wear in the latch where the square shank of the handle engages the latch.

[Krylon32]

I did do a car using United Pacific reproduction latches The fit was good and they worked great.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Well, I fixed iit - certainly not the conventional way but it is a hot rod not a concours restoration. What I did was to shave the back of the door post catch .....

Since the latch was staying out so little, taking a little off the door jam catch was the easiest, cheapest, and simplest way to go.

Regardless of how I did it, I do very much appreciate your input ....

[DavidG]

I assume that your realize that you just increased the likelihood of an unintended door opening, which tend to occur at inconvenient times. I for one would not ride as a passenger in your car if asked to do so (I know, I won't be asked.)

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Checked how deep the catch goes in this scenario and we are 90% or better. I took off very very little. But, I understand your point and you are always invited to come with me at any time but maybe you’d like to drive instead of riding shotgun? Not trying to be a wise ass - I still appreciate your input and always will. Thank you for your concern and I mean that sincerely.

[DavidG]

Nor was I as my concern was for your safety. If you've ever had an unintended door opening, even without suicide doors, it is an experience never forgotten. And it is not as though the original design was exactly bullet proof to start with with inside door handles that opened doors when leaned on by accident.


I'll keep in mind your invitation; thanks.

[alchemy]

Just two days ago I did the old rebuilt/respring of a 32 door latch. The striker tab was worn on all four sides and needed welding to bring it back to proper dimensions. I had a nice one to compare it to as I ground and filed it smooth.

Then I welded and filed the oversize worn slot on the inside tab of the slider mechanism. Also installed a new stud for the slider as well. My brother had a machinist friend make a handful a couple years ago as this part is not reproduced. Maybe a bolt head might be used if you don't have access to a lathe?

Then the outer housing of the latch also needed the rectangle hole that the striker tab goes through adjusted as well. I tapped the small flange that rides the flat side of the striker downward a bit to tighten the hole. I could see it had been worn slightly, but deemed the tapping was ten times easier than welding and refiling the hole back.

Last, I added a new spring in the inside handle flange. This is the locking spring, not the striker return spring. My striker return spring was good shape as-is, but they are available if needed.

As this thing was all apart I cleaned and sandblasted everything to remove as much rust and gunk as I could. Once I paint the parts to prevent rust, I'll get some lube in the moving parts to keep them from wearing out in my lifetime.

I will be using a pair of brand new striker catches from Upac on the jambs.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Well, as it all turns out the entire door latch broke with the spring falling to the bottom of the door. I could not open it from the outside and it would stay closed only in the lock position using the inside handle. Then, that got iffy at best - so, she’s now all apart waiting for parts to replace the door latch assembly, new striker and so on.

There’s a moral to the story here - maybe even several. I guess it was destiny ... lol!

[zzlegend]

Whew,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,maybe it was for the better when it broke Tom. Hope fully new parts will be the answer. You could always use a bungy cord,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,well,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,maybe not. Hang in there you will get it. Mark.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Got it all apart now - I will seal or replace whatever is rusty before putting it all back together ....

[zzlegend]

Tom, did you get it fixed?