Exhaust leak at coupler of manifold

[captain j]

I have an exhaust leak at the clamp of the manifold and exhaust tubing. I have the two lined up perfectly and tight. For some reason I just can't get it to stop leaking. I also tried the little asbestos gasket you can put in between. I took off the tailpipe n muffler and made sure the lip is not all bent up or anything like that. What have you guys done in this situation if you had the same leak?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd try some of the exhaust cement in a tube. Apply it to the lip before you push it up and clamp it.

[Duffy1]

There is a top and bottom to the clamp . Flip the clamp over and see if that helps .

[Gary WA]

If all is aligned good Either the cement that Tom Suggests or what I use is aluminum foil, fold into a 1/2 to 5/8th in. strip about four or 5 layers the length of the box wrap around the two flanges where they come together cut to length, I also use a small jack to hold the muffler up against the manifold, install clamp over the foil insert bolts, tighten nuts also tap clamp with hammer light blows it will center the clamp as you tighten get good and tight the foil will mold and make a tight seal and you can't see it. works Great for me. large part down.Get rid of the gasket.

[jmeckel]

I used one of these with exhaust cement works great.

Here is the info from Synders
This little gadget slips between the muffler and the manifold to prevent leaks. Use with the A-5251-ES seal. Due to manifold variations, it is sometimes necessary to cut a slit in the sleeve where it slips in the manifold. U.S.A.

Part Number Specifics Price
A-5234 1928-31 $3.95 / ea.

[A31Woody]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by jmeckel

I used one of these with exhaust cement works great.

Here is the info from Synders
This little gadget slips between the muffler and the manifold to prevent leaks. Use with the A-5251-ES seal. Due to manifold variations, it is sometimes necessary to cut a slit in the sleeve where it slips in the manifold. U.S.A.

Part Number Specifics Price
A-5234 1928-31 $3.95 / ea.

Same here. No leak since doing this.

[mhsprecher]

I used muffler cement, no gasket and a jack to hold the exhaust pipe snug against the manifold. I also made sure that the flange was fitting tightly around the pipe as well. That did the trick.

[Mitch//pa]

i use this also with no sealer works great

[Louis]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

If all is aligned good Either the cement that Tom Suggests or what I use is aluminum foil, fold into a 1/2 to 5/8th in. strip about four or 5 layers the length of the box wrap around the two flanges where they come together cut to length, I also use a small jack to hold the muffler up against the manifold, install clamp over the foil insert bolts, tighten nuts also tap clamp with hammer light blows it will center the clamp as you tighten get good and tight the foil will mold and make a tight seal and you can't see it. works Great for me. large part down.Get rid of the gasket.

I have done what Gary says, use aluminum foil folded and a jack under the exh pipe, it's been 2 years now, no leaks, you've prob. got the alum. foil, look in the cabinet above the micro-wave oven. the rest is just your labor.

[captain j]

Ill try the foil trick first since it won't cost anything. If that doesn't work ill go with the cement sealer or insert tube looking thing. Thanks guys! I also had used a jack under the muffler to make sure it was straight and tight before I clamped it together. I did make sure the clamp was on the right way, I think it wouldn't even work if it was upside down.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by captain j

Ill try the foil trick first since it won't cost anything. If that doesn't work ill go with the cement sealer or insert tube looking thing. Thanks guys! I also had used a jack under the muffler to make sure it was straight and tight before I clamped it together. I did make sure the clamp was on the right way, I think it wouldn't even work if it was upside down.

Also check the clamp after running a couple of times.The foil will mold to pipe. Rear clamp correct so exhaust can move when hot/cold.

[Tom F OHIO]

Originally Posted by captain j

Ill try the foil trick first since it won't cost anything. If that doesn't work ill go with the cement sealer or insert tube looking thing. Thanks guys! I also had used a jack under the muffler to make sure it was straight and tight before I clamped it together. I did make sure the clamp was on the right way, I think it wouldn't even work if it was upside down.

After trying all of the things suggested and if you still have a problem you might want to loosen the clamp that holds the tailpipe tight and that will let everything be free to move around and then take the jack and tighten it up against the exhaust manifold. It sure helped me.

Tom...

[Benson]

Captain J,

1. It is possible to to install one half of the clamp correctly and the other one upside down. Clamp can be installed but will not seal correctly.

The clamp is designed to have a smaller opening on the bottom compared to the upper part ... if one half of clamp is upside down it will leak.

2. Chris Pelikan did extensive research on engine overheating that causes gasoline boiling inside carbs, fuel lines and sediment bowls. One cause was the use of those "inserts" that go inside the manifold/muffler junction.

The restriction elevates tailpipe / manifold temperatures near the junction. Chris used an infrared temperature "gun". Some inserts are thicker than others (more restriction) and increased temperatures in Chris' testing. He also observed glowing manifold and tail pipes in the junction area while looking at junctions using "inserts" during roadside testing at night.

The restriction also reduces engine power and gas mileage.

3. Some reproduction tail pipes have an incorrect flange shape and/or size and do not seal correctly. Rust pits on the manifold where it joins to the tail pipe is another cause.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Jim Mason has a picture on his website of the tool someone made to smooth the manifold sealing surface. It has a round part that fits the manifold hole, and a cutter at an angle to match the manifold lip.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by Benson

Captain J,

1. It is possible to to install one half of the clamp correctly and the other one upside down. Clamp can be installed but will not seal correctly.

The clamp is designed to have a smaller opening on the bottom compared to the upper part ... if one half of clamp is upside down it will leak.

2. Chris Pelikan did extensive research on engine overheating that causes gasoline boiling inside carbs, fuel lines and sediment bowls. One cause was the use of those "inserts" that go inside the manifold/muffler junction.

The restriction elevates tailpipe / manifold temperatures near the junction. Chris used an infrared temperature "gun". Some inserts are thicker than others (more restriction) and increased temperatures in Chris' testing. He also observed glowing manifold and tail pipes in the junction area while looking at junctions using "inserts" during roadside testing at night.

The restriction also reduces engine power and gas mileage.

3. Some reproduction tail pipes have an incorrect flange shape and/or size and do not seal correctly. Rust pits on the manifold where it joins to the tail pipe is another cause.

I believe your second paragraph is wrong?Smaller on the manifold larger on the muffler?