Oil pan gasket installation

[Blastfromthepast]

I have my oil pan out of my 36 and was wondering if anyone has the best way to install the gaskets. It was pretty tight coming out and I have a feeling that when I go to put it back on the gasket is either going to move or become damaged. Should I use a gasket sealer, shellac etc... Any suggestions. Thanks.

[tubman]

I always "glue" the gasket to the pan, using whatever gasket sealer I have at the time. Pay particular attention to the seals. Fel-Pro (at least) has a kit that comes with their gasket set that has a trimming guide for the seal and a cheap razor knife. I always use the former, never the latter (I use a new single edge razor blade).

Here's an additional hint. I had to put an oil pump into my Corvette a few years back. To do this, I of course had to remove the pan. The new Fel-Pro gasket I got for it contained 4 headless blue plastic "snap studs". You screw them into the corner of the block, and they allow you to slide the pan up over them, and the "snaps" hold the pan in place while you insert the rest of the pan bolts. The ends of the studs have a screwdriver slot in them, so they can be easily removed and the last 4 bolts inserted. They make oil pan installation a "snap". I mentioned them here because they are 5/16" NC thread, and also fit a flathead block. I saved them and have used them on my last three flathead pan installations, and they work as well on these motors as they do on SBC's. They were not included in the last couple of flathead pan gasket sets I purchased, so I am mentioning them here. If they don't come with the gasket sets not, I would try to see if they can be purchased separately. As a last resort, I would purchase an SBC pan set just to get the studs, they are that handy. It's a good thing SBC parts are a LOT cheaper than flathead parts.

The one problem with these is that there may not be enough room to use them if you are replacing the pan with the engine still in the car. They are about 2" long and you may not be able to raise the engine high enough. Oh yeah, pan installation is much easier if you have the crankshaft in the proper position (front crank throws up).

[19Fordy]

tubman: Please post a photo of those plastic studs, if possible, so that we can see if it would be possible to make a set. Thanks.

[tubman]

I'll try to remember to do that today. Remind me if I forget.

I know you can make your own. I saw a set many years ago that a friend of my dad had. He cut the heads off 4 proper length bolts, hack-sawed a longitudinal slot in them, inserted a length of spring steel wire, and either peened or welded the slots closed. I think the plastic ones work better.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

tubman: Please post a photo of those plastic studs, if possible, so that we can see if it would be possible to make a set. Thanks.

They are available many places, for example here at Amazon--


https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-ES-72.../dp/B000CSC5A8

[tubman]

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Them's the ones! $10.51 a set; a little expensive for 4 pieces of plastic, but probably still better than making your own.

[19Fordy]

Thanks for posting the photos. Those are neat, for sure.

[Kurt in NJ]

If you glue the gasket to the pan how do you tuck the ends under the strip going over the rear main

[Blastfromthepast]

ya its tough with the engine in the car. I had to block the engine up and it was still hard to get out. I cant see that there wont be a problem getting it back in. There just isn't that much wiggle room. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

[Blastfromthepast]

Getting back to those plastic studs. You know what might work. Remember those plastic trim push type buttons that you use to attach splash guards or door panels. that could work if you remove the heads and insert the plastic stud part. Just a thought, Im going to try it I let you know how it turns out.

[Blastfromthepast]

another problem I have with the pan removal is the dip stick. is there away to remove it without removing the rivets. does that tube come out. Its a big problem taking out and putting back the pan. It has to go through the exhaust manifold and its not fun.

[chap52]

I used to drop the steering tie rod on the passenger side of my F1 and let it hang to make the process easier to drop straight down past the oil pump... Chap

[zzlegend]

I use four long studs and always glue the gasket to the block. I use this to glue it on the block. Just light dabs here and there. Just my way.

[cajunfirehawk]

Originally Posted by Blastfromthepast

another problem I have with the pan removal is the dip stick. is there away to remove it without removing the rivets. does that tube come out. Its a big problem taking out and putting back the pan. It has to go through the exhaust manifold and its not fun.

Not sure how many do BUT I would change the gasket for the dip stick area too, drill the rivets, some vendors sell kits with the gasket and bolts/nuts, think 3rd gen auto does? (link to one on ebay for $5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-48-For...72.m2749.l2649) he is a member here too if I am not mistaken, he (Maark?) does some killer rebuilt helmet dizzys too FWIW.



OP please post pics if you can, I need to change mine out soon too, hate leaky engines.

[Sod Buster]

I used a wooden dowel, cut down to about an inch long, four of them, screwed them in just enough to hold the gasket, and also detached the tie rod, it wasn't to bad of a job.

[nickthebandit]

You could also use thread to tie the gasket in place on the pan.

[Blastfromthepast]

There’s also a cork gasket on the inside of the pan. How is that held in place.
Also the rope gasket I guess just gets tucked in the grove?