1936 21-Stud Waterpump Heater Connection

[SofaKing]

I am trying to connect a fitting to the Waterpump on a 21 stud engine to run to the heater. The thread is 5/8" fine. The shut-off valves are 3/8 pipe and there is only 2" of clearance between the water pump and generator. I have not found a combination of parts that will work yet. What is the rest of the world using, I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel?

[flatheadfan]

Can't speak for thr rest of the world but what I am doing on my '35 and '36 is use a "T" fitting on an upper hose and lower hose. To control the temperature I have a manual close-off valve spliced into the inline hose.

Tom

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

I am trying to connect a fitting to the Waterpump on a 21 stud engine to run to the heater. The thread is 5/8" fine. The shut-off valves are 3/8 pipe and there is only 2" of clearance between the water pump and generator. I have not found a combination of parts that will work yet. What is the rest of the world using, I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel?

An adapter and a 90 deg fitting won't fit in the space?

[Ingram 33vicky]

Looks like the water pump is on the wrong side

[Terry,OH]

For 35 Ford did not offer a hot water heater. One aftermarket supplier offered a RH pump with a hose barb cast into the pump. Extremely hard to find one now.

[SofaKing]

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FlatheadFan-I considered your solution and if I can't find a way to put the S/O valve at the pump I'll have to put it in the heater hose like you did. It's already starting to look like a kid was playing "waterworks" in there because of other obstacles I encountered. If I could keep it as clean as you did, that'd be ok.

JSeery- Summit sells a 5/8NF to 3/8 NPT adaptor but it looks to be 1.5-2.0" long, they don't identify. With an elbow I am skeptical. I have a collection of mail order parts that won't fit, don't work, and I am at point in this project where I am plain tired of pumping money in it. I just received some more stuff yesterday that won't fit. My fun-meter is pegged, I can't bring myself to place another order. Yeah, it's an emotional response to mechanical problem but that's where I am. Maybe I'll skip the heater for now and just get the pos running.

33Vicky- wrong side, hell I don't know, both pumps have the boss on the LH side so switching them won't help.

Terry, Thanks I am not surprised but the phrase "extremely hard to find now" has settled the question. Gold-plated hen's teeth are not in my future, beer is though...

[Don Rogers]

There was a special after market pump housing made in 35/36 that allowed for a neat looking job. You see them from time to time in flea markets. The only other option is to tap into the radiator hoses as shown abbove

[JSeery]

This my sound a little drastic, but have you considered re-tapping it to a pipe thread size and then using a standard threaded elbow fitting? Are the walls on the projection thick enough to allow for a modification? Just an idea.

[Karl]

I'm considering installing a heater in my 1934. My plan was to to do what Flatheadfan
did. I considered using the water temp probe port on my later water pump but not sure that the flow would be enough. However like you my project is stalled -Chiefly because one of my V8 friends asked me when was the last time I was cold in my V8-I couldn't remember ! The heat through the firewall keeps me nice and toasty in our temperate climate so I've decided for now not to chop up my firewall and do some serious replumbing. I might change my mind after this (for us impending ) winter

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by JSeery

This my sound a little drastic, but have you considered re-tapping it to a pipe thread size and then using a standard threaded elbow fitting? Are the walls on the projection thick enough to allow for a modification? Just an idea.

I hadn't thought of that, seeing as I had them massaged by Skip I hate to noodle around with them, for now at least. I have been thinking about making a bushing with a soldered tube but figured maybe there's an off the shelf solution.

[blucar]

My '36 Ford coupe, which I purchased in 1952 and still own came with a '39 Ford hot water heater installed on the passenger side of fire wall. The hoses were hooked up like the pix that flatheadfan attached to his contribution to this topic, except for the shutoff valve.
The engine that came in the car was a Ford Meyers/Welsh rebuilt that showed 51K + on the odometer.. In the fall of '53 I installed new water pumps and thermostats in preparation to install new anti-freeze for the coming Idaho winter. The right had water pump that I bought had a threaded port on the right side of the pump, I installed a 90 degree heater turn off valve into the port provided on the pump, eliminating the hose fitting in the upper right hose.
It might take some looking, there are 21 stud right hand pumps out their that have the port and/or a flat portion on the pump body that can be drilled out for the hose connection..

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

I hadn't thought of that, seeing as I had them massaged by Skip I hate to noodle around with them, for now at least. I have been thinking about making a bushing with a soldered tube but figured maybe there's an off the shelf solution.

You could have had Skip put the fitting on the pump for
the heater. He has done them for several others. G.M.