F-1 Heater Help Wiring

[Ken Crans]

Looking for some help ..trying to figure out wiring. 2 wire out of blower motor original 6 volt. Heater switch is correct for the heater. Switch/defrost cable combo complete unit out of 51. My questions are there are 4 prongs on switch The switch itself has high/low speeds on direct and indirect 2 to the left 2 to the right and center being off. Plus a bulb for lighting.Can you look at the pics to help me figure out? I will be converting to 12 volt after i figure out and use a ceramic reducer for voltage. Thanks Ken

[Ross F-1]

I highly recommend that you replace the fan motor with a 12v one. It's easy and pretty darn cheap. It is the correct solution.

[49fordv8f4]

The switch you have is for a four wire motor in a three door heater. My '49 has the same switch, it is also used in the '46-'48 cars with the three door heater. I bought an electronic voltage reducer for mine which will run the heater motor, the gauges and any other 6V accessory up to a total of 20 or 25 amps. The two wire motor for your heater is probably available in 12V, the four wire ones are not.
Mark

[Ross F-1]

12v replacement for '46 Ford car with 3 doors: Balkamp replacement-BK6551022 (NAPA)

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...022_0361108680

Not sure what 4 wires would be for? This one is reversible.

[ken ct]

The 4 terminal switch is for a 39 to around 47-48 for a 2 speeds forward and 2 speeds in reverse. Not a 49 an up Heater switch. ken ct.

[49fordv8f4]

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The four wire motors are two speed and reversible. The switch is correct for the '48-'50? truck when the three door heater is installed and the '48-'52 with the fresh air heater. The truck heater is similar but different than the ones used in the '46-'48 cars but the controls are the same.
Mark

[meric42]

Hi Ken,

Referring to the photo of the back of your switch. Mark is correct this switch is designed for a 4-wire motor (2 wires for the armature and and 2 for the field coils) direction change was made by reversing the polarity of the field coils whilst the armature polarity remained constant.

The top terminal of the switch should be connected to the battery via the ignition switch so that when the Ignition is off so is the heater. The two side contacts are for the field winding's and change polarity depending if the switch is rotated clockwise or counter clockwise. The 4th wire from the heater motor is connected to ground, usually via one of the heater control panel mounting screws.

You can still use the switch with a 2 wire motor but it will not be reversible. One motor wire goes to ground and the other to the bottom terminal on the switch. This still gives two speeds but only one direction regardless of which way the switch is rotated.

I hope this helps?

Cheers,

Meric.

[Ken Crans]

Ok thanks guys i will try with a battery charger to check switch and motor.

[koates]

Hi Ken, Please don't use a battery charger to test your heater system. Use a 6 volt battery. Chargers are meant to charge batteries and not really designed as a power supply. Most modern chargers have no output unless they see a voltage potential (connected to a battery). Your charger may not have enough output anyway to run a 6 volt heater blower effectively. Regards, Kevin.

[Ken Crans]

ok thanks Koates

[V8 Bob]

Just to add, I am also using a '40s 3-door heater with the NAPA/Balkamp 655-1022 12V reversing motor. I am using a new 3-speed 12V heater control switch that runs directly to a reversing toggle switch (then to the motor) to change the motor's direction for maximum heat or defrost.