Assistance Needed !

[stevests]

I owned a Model A Coupe over 50 + years ago and about 30 + years ago reverted back to the "dark-side" after inheriting my Gramps' 1924 TT C-cab - so, I'm helping a friend who's new to the old car hobby and bought a '29 P/U for his wife to sport around in - nice A BUT has a couple issues I'm attempting to resolve - here's the question: I'm having the distributor rebuilt so whilst removing the armored ignition cable clamp from that particular stud near the distributor, I removed the stud nut, which was tight but not frozen when coolant began to puddle around that stud - WTH ! Any guidance from you folks on possible causes ?

[Purdy Swoft]

Should have drained the coolant or water first .

[John Dayhuff]

I think I'm seeing the same thing happen on my car, not sure whats going on but I didn't have this problem until after I put in a leakless water pump and filled it with three gallons of water.

[Patrick L.]

Once the cable is off, I leave that clamp off and just add a thin washer in its place.
I like to be able to quickly/easily remove the distributor.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Once the cable is off, I leave that clamp off and just add a thin washer in its place.
I like to be able to quickly/easily remove the distributor.

Lot’s of folks do the same, and that is appealing to me as well. However, when I tried that on my car (with three different armored ignition cables), the spark rod linkage rubs on the armored cable. Does the armored cable rub the spark rod linkage on your car?


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[stevests]

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No, the cable is clear and no coolant was present prior to removing the clamp so I'm not
clear as to why removing the pressure from one nut could cause the leak.

Purdy - Why would I need to drain the cooling system to remove ONE stud nut ? Model T's use head bolts in which one of them holds the horn bracket - one can remove that bolt & no coolant escapes !

[TerryO]

Why would I need to drain the cooling system to remove ONE stud nut ?

Not Purdy, it prevents the issue you are now dealing with...


TOB

[Russ/40]

It's a common complaint. You wouldn't think one stud would allow enough movement of the head to allow a leak, but it is what it is, and people just drop the water leval.

[stevests]

Interesting !

[wmws]

I have the clamp on my armored cable but I just hook it over the long stud and don't put it under the nut. That way it is in place and doesn't rub on anything and when I want to take the distributor out I just slip it off the stud. Also I think there is two different lengths of armored cable available. Some may rub more than others.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by wmws

Also I think there is two different lengths of armored cable available. Some may rub more than others.

Hmmm... That’s the first I’ve heard of that.

Thanks for the idea of just hooking the clamp across the top of that stud. I wish I had thought of that while I had it apart.


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[jetmek]

The stud is right next to a steam hole. Often source of a crack allowing seepage to stud. Also most blocks and or heads have a fair bit of warp when tension is relieved water can migrate from the steam hole

[stevests]

I thank you kindly for a possible answer !

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by wmws

I have the clamp on my armored cable but I just hook it over the long stud and don't put it under the nut. That way it is in place and doesn't rub on anything and when I want to take the distributor out I just slip it off the stud. Also I think there is two different lengths of armored cable available. Some may rub more than others.

I did pretty much the same thing. I altered the clamp so that it only had one thickness on the stud, then secured it with a thin jamb nut.

As to the different lengths of the armored cable, the original goes all the way up to the ignition switch. Then there is the aftermarket type that only goes up to the terminal box so that it "looks" original but is easier to deal with. Then there's the kind that is just a little skinny cable that does not look original.

[mike657894]

someone drilled that hole to fix a broken stud and went to deep. that stud will require sealant or sealant tape.

[stevests]

That's possible - it had a new repro iron head installed. I did run a piece of 1/8" round stock down into the block hole and it hit bottom - I don't believe it's in the water jacket but who knows ! I'll seal the new stud upon installation.

[stevests]

Any recommendations for a proper sealant ?

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good Morning...You can take the stud out and put a bit of 'Anti Seize' on it and put it back in and then torque it down...I would lower the water level before you do it! Also, if your machine is only a driver, those pop outs can short inside the cable and leave you stranded. You might want to consider a replacement key switch...most likely safer in the long run. The stock only folks might get bent out of shape...Ernie in Arizona

[stevests]

Thanks Ernie - cooling system is drained to service & install new hoses - car had been sitting for some time. I have several types of "sealant" - just wondering if one was preferred over another - like Permatex #2 ?

[Purdy Swoft]

The model A engine only has 14 head studs and nuts . The tiny little 60 horsepower flathead V8 had 17 head studs per head . There just isn't a lot of pressure holding the model A head in place compared to the other Ford engines . Loosening or removing even one head nut without first draining the coolant runs the risk of a leak . I always drain mine first .