Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Model A (1928-31)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-28-2013, 06:12 PM   #1
Senior Member
sethkestenbaum's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Rockland County, NY
Posts: 615
Default Oil Pan Dropping Update

What a day.... What a weekend.... This whole "drop the pan" thing takes time. I've actually "dropped the pan", removed the baffle, cleaned/primed/painted, and am now waiting for the pan to cure. Next weekend I will likely be checking bearing clearance, cleaning the valve chamber, cleaning the oil pump, and reinstalling (with a little help from one of the guys from the NJ Regional A club.) Here is a link to the latest post.


Suggestions for the next steps or how I could have done what I did better are very welcome (and likely needed).
Seth Kestenbaum
sethkestenbaum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 12:09 AM   #2
Senior Member
Onlybackroads's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 235
Default Re: Oil Pan Dropping Update

I like your page, it's interesting to see your experiences logged into a a website.
Onlybackroads is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 04-29-2013, 12:18 AM   #3
Geo. H
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 374
Default Re: Oil Pan Dropping Update

One thing. When you put the splash pan back in, make sure it's solidly in the grooves all the way around. I learned the hard way.
Geo. H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 01:27 AM   #4
Mike V. Florida
Senior Member
Mike V. Florida's Avatar
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Florida
Posts: 14,051
Send a message via AIM to Mike V. Florida
Default Re: Oil Pan Dropping Update

Aluminum foil method for checking clearances;

Mike Flanagan wrote this many years ago;

How do you check the clearance on the bearings? It is not QED but can be done if you can lay on your back and work with oil and grit and grime falling in your eyes.

First you gotta drop the pan, let it sit overnight to get all the oil that will fall out to do so. You are still going to get oily. Pull the damn oil pump out and lay it aside. You can shine a flashlight up in there to see which way the tang is oriented to reinstall and with it out there won't be so damn much blood on it to clean off it. Then I start with the center main. This one requires that the valve cover be taken off as the nut is in side there. The other nut is between 2 and three outside on the other side. Remove the cap being careful to keep the shims on the same side as they came from.

Visually inspect the bearing for cracks and places at both the front and back that look as if it has been compressing the babbitt and pushing it forward or to the rear. Bad signs if so. To check the clearance, use a piece of aluminum foil .002 thick. The heavy duty she buys to do heavy-duty things is .002 but the regular like you cook a baked potato in is .001 so you fold it.

You want a piece as long as the cap and about 1/2 wide. Lay this in the cap and with the SHIMS BACK IN THERE put the cap back on and tighten it up. Now you want to see if the motor will turn with the obstruction in
place. Stick a 6" punch in one of the balance holes in the crank throw so the pull will be consistent each time you check. You are looking for lockup with the obstruction in there and free without. The shims are increments of .002 or .003 depending on which the rebuild used.

The steel shims are generally in .002 and the brass in .003. Peel 1 increment from one side at a time, one from one side and if that doesn't lock it up then do one from the other side. Yes it is tedious; just be glad you didn't by a space shuttle. Once you get this bearing to lockup then remove the obstruction and replace it and tighten it up again and see if it will rotate. If it won't turn with the 6" punch then put that dame shim back in and run it another 3k.
Do the rear next then the front. The rods adjust exactly the same way. When you finally get a bearing adjusted like you want it put some pre-lube (engine assembly lube) on there before putting it on there for the last time. Torque to whatever you has been using (75 minimum) and go. The rod nuts torque to 40.

To put the pan on there install the oil pump using a 3/8 fine thread bolt in the plug hole in the side of the block to retain the pump while you install the pan. Finger tight as the threads are actually national pipe threads but the bolt will work in there. Get some 5/16 all thread and make yourself some cheaters by cutting 4 pieces 4 or 5 inches long. Screw them into the pan rail and let 'em hang down. Slip the pan over them and start a nut. Then it is a matter of tightening the nuts incrementally in turn and thereby winching the pan up against the spring on the pump.
The gaskets and sealer is a matter of choice but my opinion is that the silicone belongs in the bathroom. I use permatex red personally. When you put it all back together put some of the oil down the dist hole so the valve galley is oiled. It should not have lost any oil but I like to make sure.
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II
Mike V. Florida is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:52 PM.