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04-08-2016, 07:15 PM | #1 |
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Location: Birmingham Alabama
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Starter question, I am stymied!
My starter seemed dead, I had it rebuilt......still seems bad.
Should I have continuity between the starter terminal and the ground? That just seems wrong to me. Bob Tedrow Homewood Music Birmingham, Alabama |
04-08-2016, 08:03 PM | #2 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
The very heavy windings of the starter will show a dead short if you try to measure ohms from the starter button to ground.
If you are trying to run the starter on the bench you will need a car battery and battery cables. Most jumper cables won't supply the needed amps. |
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04-08-2016, 09:56 PM | #3 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
Additionally, if you are going to run the starter on the bench, be sure to remove the starter drive assembly installed on the armature shaft.
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04-08-2016, 10:14 PM | #4 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
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04-08-2016, 10:21 PM | #5 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
Is the starter in the car? Likely a poor ground path. Remove the ground strap from the frame crossmember and clean the spot where it bolts on.
Adding a dedicated engine ground cable from that same crossmember point to a tranny bolt will do wonders too, especially if you do not have the original engine side pans. Also remove and clean the battery terminal connectors. Last thought- load test on the battery. The voltage/charge may be up to snuff but age takes its toll on active plate area. If you don't have a load tester most parts stores will do it for free. |
04-08-2016, 10:51 PM | #6 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
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I have bench tested hundreds of starters and have never felt a need to do this. The direct answer to the OP's question is, yes there should be continuity from the starter terminal and ground
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04-08-2016, 11:06 PM | #7 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
Here is where some old time tools would come in handy if you can find them. A clamp on ammeter that clamps to the cable that goes to the starter. This would tell you if the starter "sees" the voltage and wants to do something with it. If you have high current and no movement you have something shorted internally with the wiring of the starter. No current you have something open in th starter.
If you don't have such a meter I would suggest removing it from the car. Place it tightly in a vice, keeping anything and everything away from the bendix end of the starter. Using the meter on a battery charger in place of the clamp on meter start and try to make it run. Remove the voltage and give the motor a spin my hand and then reattach the voltage. I'm sure there are youtube videos on the subjest as well.
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04-09-2016, 06:25 AM | #8 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
Paul and William McRee in their small book entitled, "The Model A Generator with Special Sectons on The Model A Starter, The Model A Cutout, The Model A Starter Switch, " state on page 51 in bold face and caps, "333. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER TEST THE STARTER WITH THE STARTER DRIVE ASSEMBLY INSTALLED ON THE ARMATURE SHAFT." Also, Les Andrews on page 1-286 states, "8. The starter bendix drive must be removed for starter motor bench testing." None of the authors give a reason.
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04-09-2016, 07:39 AM | #9 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
The drive has a weight which will make the shaft shake as it spins on the bench, but it isn't a big deal, as you are holding onto the starter and only spinning it long enough to make sure it works.
The only other thing I can think of is if you use an aftermarket drive, some of them when spun into engagement have a pin that keeps them locked in until the higher engine speed disengages the pin and spins the drive back out of the engagement position. If the drive is in the engagement position it may be tough to mount the starter due to the drive not going past the flywheel teeth. |
04-09-2016, 01:39 PM | #10 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
The starter is grounded through the flywheel housing. The surfaces where
the starter and flywheel housing mate together need to be clean and free of paint and grime as that is where the ground occurs. A clean ground from battery to frame cross member is required. You can further ground your engine by running an additional ground cable from the positive side of the battery to a top bolt on the shifting tower. |
04-11-2016, 10:10 PM | #11 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
Well,
If you are interested, my starter is fine. My one month old battery was the problem. Even though the voltage read 6 volts on the multimeter, it had not the amps to turn over the starter. oh well, the starter could use a freshening up anyway. Bob |
04-12-2016, 04:41 AM | #12 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
MikeK's last thought, load test the battery! It seams to me we are having more problems with NEW batteries :-(
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04-12-2016, 05:12 AM | #13 |
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Re: Starter question, I am stymied!
Didn't you say you already had it rebuilt? Wayne
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