The Ford Barn

Kingo · 04-23-2020, 08:41 PM

I am wondering which is the correct top molding for a Murray town sedan? Is it the metal molding that folds over itself once it is nailed down or was it the solid metal molding? Also was it installed before body was painted or after. Finally, was it painted body color or black?
Thanks
King

rotorwrench · 04-24-2020, 08:59 AM

Volume 3 of the How to Restore series of books by MAFCA has a chart that lists the #3 ribbed bottom aluminum extrusion for sides and rear with the #1 flat bottom aluminum extrusion for the front on all the model 155 cars including the 155C. That book has illustrations and photos of the different molding used on the closed cars in the model A era.

Some of these top extrusions are not currently being produced so a person should check with Bert's, Bratton's, or Snyders and see if they still have the 5/8" type open top moldings that can be closed over the nails after installation. This stuff may be hard to get for a while. The stuff would likely have to be formed somewhat to fit but the later town sedans don't have sharp bends to them if I remember correctly.

Del in NE Ohio · 04-24-2020, 12:16 PM

Go to Snyder's website and search for A-47301-5 for correct moulding for Murray 4-dr.

You can also view good instructions for installation.

Kingo · 04-24-2020, 04:48 PM

A 47301-5 it is then
The car is chickel and copra. I have read the trim was prepainted black and installed with exposed nails after the Murray body was painted body color. Is this correct?
Thanks
King

rotorwrench · 04-25-2020, 08:28 AM

It would have been necessary to paint the retainers after the lips are pushed together. They were all all painted to match the color of the topping as far as I know. The retainers have to be completely masked around the edges to include the top and sides of the roof at least in order to finish them. The pieces have to contoured a bit to fit well with each other at each of the joints where the retainers meet in the corners. Briggs may have had a way to close the lips after assembly in order to avoid painting but I don't know if they prepainted them and closed them this way or not. the pieces would have to be completely prefit prior to painting in order to do it this way. It's too easy to mess up the paint otherwise.

The extrusion shown in post #3 is not the type that can be closed over the nails. Folks do use these but the nail holes have to be countersunk or counterbored a bit to be able to hide them with filler prior to painting. There would be no way to install these without painting them after assembly is completed.

This is from Bratton's: https://www.brattons.com/top-molding...de-5-long.html
https://www.brattons.com/top-molding...e-10-long.html
It states what they fit and all the 155s are included even though it doesn't look that way.

MAG · 04-25-2020, 04:07 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The JS lists R2 Roof Moulding for all 155 A,B,C,D bodies. This moulding is similar the one in Del's pic. The nails in this moulding are 2 inches apart and they are exposed and visible. I removed the original nails and they are not recessed. They are painted upper body color. I have a '30 Briggs TS that has the original top moulding and it is exactly like the RS moulding shown in the JS.

rotorwrench · 04-25-2020, 04:34 PM

Nails showing would certainly be noticeable. Ford usually always tried to hide stuff but I don't know about the sub contractors. They were working off a pretty short profit margin at both Briggs and Murray. Nothing surprises me mush about things Ford. I would worry about three things with exposed nails on a roof. Number one would be appearance, two would be corrosion, and three would be leakage. Sealer on the nails might work but it just doesn't sound right to me if that's the way they did it.

Kingo · 04-26-2020, 10:12 AM

This is a picture of an unrestored Murray town sedan. The way it tapers off on the edge leads me to believe it was the solid molding

rotorwrench · 04-26-2020, 06:45 PM

The information in Volume 4 of the How to Restore Your Model A series has both information of restoration projects that were based on original cars so there were likely variations depending on material shortages and the like. The author of that information requested that folks contact him to let him know about variations so that they could be added to the Judging Standards book. They show six different types. Three are aluminum and three are steel with two of those being the two piece types and the third being a type that uses a filler cord to cover the nails. There is also a Ford Service Bulletin about the closed car roof edge moldings.

The only nails that show on my 29 Sport Coupe are the nickel plated ones that hold the little nickel plated corner and end pieces. Even the belt rail was large two piece steel molding so that the nails could be covered.

If a person has the originals, some can be reused but the type with the fold over lips can't effectively be opened up for reuse. Once the lips are closed over they can still be tapered a bit on the ends since the aluminum is pretty soft & likely annealed as well. Some have to be bent to go around sharp 90 degree bends.

04-24-2020, 08:59 AM	#2
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: 1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding Volume 3 of the How to Restore series of books by MAFCA has a chart that lists the #3 ribbed bottom aluminum extrusion for sides and rear with the #1 flat bottom aluminum extrusion for the front on all the model 155 cars including the 155C. That book has illustrations and photos of the different molding used on the closed cars in the model A era. Some of these top extrusions are not currently being produced so a person should check with Bert's, Bratton's, or Snyders and see if they still have the 5/8" type open top moldings that can be closed over the nails after installation. This stuff may be hard to get for a while. The stuff would likely have to be formed somewhat to fit but the later town sedans don't have sharp bends to them if I remember correctly.

04-24-2020, 04:48 PM	#4
Kingo Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 76	Re: 1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding A 47301-5 it is then The car is chickel and copra. I have read the trim was prepainted black and installed with exposed nails after the Murray body was painted body color. Is this correct? Thanks King

04-25-2020, 08:28 AM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: 1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding It would have been necessary to paint the retainers after the lips are pushed together. They were all all painted to match the color of the topping as far as I know. The retainers have to be completely masked around the edges to include the top and sides of the roof at least in order to finish them. The pieces have to contoured a bit to fit well with each other at each of the joints where the retainers meet in the corners. Briggs may have had a way to close the lips after assembly in order to avoid painting but I don't know if they prepainted them and closed them this way or not. the pieces would have to be completely prefit prior to painting in order to do it this way. It's too easy to mess up the paint otherwise. The extrusion shown in post #3 is not the type that can be closed over the nails. Folks do use these but the nail holes have to be countersunk or counterbored a bit to be able to hide them with filler prior to painting. There would be no way to install these without painting them after assembly is completed. This is from Bratton's: https://www.brattons.com/top-molding...de-5-long.html https://www.brattons.com/top-molding...e-10-long.html It states what they fit and all the 155s are included even though it doesn't look that way. Last edited by rotorwrench; 04-25-2020 at 08:59 AM.

04-25-2020, 04:07 PM	#6
MAG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 925	Re: 1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The JS lists R2 Roof Moulding for all 155 A,B,C,D bodies. This moulding is similar the one in Del's pic. The nails in this moulding are 2 inches apart and they are exposed and visible. I removed the original nails and they are not recessed. They are painted upper body color. I have a '30 Briggs TS that has the original top moulding and it is exactly like the RS moulding shown in the JS. __________________ I noticed the harder I work the luckier I get!

04-25-2020, 04:34 PM	#7
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: 1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding Nails showing would certainly be noticeable. Ford usually always tried to hide stuff but I don't know about the sub contractors. They were working off a pretty short profit margin at both Briggs and Murray. Nothing surprises me mush about things Ford. I would worry about three things with exposed nails on a roof. Number one would be appearance, two would be corrosion, and three would be leakage. Sealer on the nails might work but it just doesn't sound right to me if that's the way they did it.

04-23-2020, 08:41 PM	#1
Kingo Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 76	1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding I am wondering which is the correct top molding for a Murray town sedan? Is it the metal molding that folds over itself once it is nailed down or was it the solid metal molding? Also was it installed before body was painted or after. Finally, was it painted body color or black? Thanks King

04-26-2020, 06:45 PM	#9
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: 1930 Murray Town Sedan top molding The information in Volume 4 of the How to Restore Your Model A series has both information of restoration projects that were based on original cars so there were likely variations depending on material shortages and the like. The author of that information requested that folks contact him to let him know about variations so that they could be added to the Judging Standards book. They show six different types. Three are aluminum and three are steel with two of those being the two piece types and the third being a type that uses a filler cord to cover the nails. There is also a Ford Service Bulletin about the closed car roof edge moldings. The only nails that show on my 29 Sport Coupe are the nickel plated ones that hold the little nickel plated corner and end pieces. Even the belt rail was large two piece steel molding so that the nails could be covered. If a person has the originals, some can be reused but the type with the fold over lips can't effectively be opened up for reuse. Once the lips are closed over they can still be tapered a bit on the ends since the aluminum is pretty soft & likely annealed as well. Some have to be bent to go around sharp 90 degree bends.