stuck rear hub help

[jetmek]

Originally Posted by skidmarks

Those are good for ruining studs and bending hubs.

Maybe if your a sledgehammer mechanic .. Ive never had any such problem with it and If you guys are advising plasma cutters and torches then what you just said doesn't really matter any way ?

[skidmarks]

Originally Posted by jetmek

Maybe if your a sledgehammer mechanic .. Ive never had any such problem with it and If you guys are advising plasma cutters and torches then what you just said doesn't really matter any way ?

Yeah it does but do what you want

[51woodie]

I bought a puller from Vintage Precision Inc in Benicia CA, to remove the rear hubs from my "46 Super Deluxe. The cost was $125.00 at the time and it is perfect. The quality is excellent and it works perfectly.


http://vintageprecision.com/products...ers/index.html

[Andy]

When you beat on the end of the axle the load goes straight to the differential carrier bearigs. The hub is not going to contact the housing so you are just hammering on the bearings. The hub sees no loads. Visualize the hub without the axle bells to see what is actually taking the load. If the diffferential and axles were out and the opposide axle was held in a vice it would be obvious that hammering on the axle would do no good.
Same with hammering on a steering shaft to remove a steering wheel.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by skidmarks

This is a snapon blue point and grabs the hub the same way a KRW does but opens and closes like a clam

My Snap On Blue Point attaches to 3 lugs bolts. The one you have
fits in the grove cut around the hub. Yours isn't very heavy duty. G.M.

[51woodie]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

G.M. I don't know if you are responding to my post or not, but if you are, the puller I have is very well built, and I would recommend it as a tool to have.


Sorry G.M. I should have read the quote you included.

[Lawrie]

Well , three days ,and two pullers, and finally its off.
The best KRW pullers just would not get it loose, tried heating along the keyway but no go,
I have pulled lots of these hubs off using my KRW style pullers with NEVER this much trouble,
we made a strong back and welded it to the hub where the wheel sits, hoping to maybe save the hub,but at least the axle,
We used a 20 ton porta power cylinder in there, still no go.
So we regrouped and decided to sacrifice the hub, with the porta power cylinder loaded up,we slowly cut away the hub above the keyway, we cut the whole side and only when we got to the last 1/2 inch up by the wheel mount area it let go, with a huge bang,
Good news is the axle and nut are both OK and all I need to do is round up another brake drum and hub from my pile,
And the main reason for the job is to replace a leaking wheel cylinder.
Pics will follow tomorrow.
Lawrie

[Talkwrench]

Mmm some days hey Lawrie..

[Brian]

Strewth, that's scary!! Good you got it off with no carnage to the axle; that would have made it a much bigger job. So....why was it so tight?

[Mart]

I've never seen one of those snapon bluepoint pullers before. It does look like an excellent piece of kit. It would appear to be specifically designed for the Fords, so it would be perfectly suitable.

I have the Vintage Precision puller. It's very good and has worked for me, but I would imagine a genuine krw one is like the Rolls Royce version, as it was the original.

Mart.

[skidmarks]

Originally Posted by G.M.

My Snap On Blue Point attaches to 3 lugs bolts. The one you have
fits in the grove cut around the hub. Yours isn't very heavy duty. G.M.

I have that one also. Problem with the 3 leg pullers is they dont work well on wide 5 drums and your pulling on 70 plus year old studs with threads that are worn.

Grabbing the machined groove is the bestt way closest to the center .

This puller is beyond heavy duty

[Sod Buster]

https://youtu.be/aJwxmfg89bA

A video on the subject.

[richard crow]

make sure it don,t have safty hubs. i not talking about those metal brackets. there are ones that go inside the drum .you can tell by looking at the bolts on the axle housing they must be removed . if you have them & you don,t remove the bolts king kong can,t get them off. ask me how i know this . i have met up with them twice in my years. a quick look at the back of the backing plate will tell you if there there. kr wilson puller none better

[richard crow]

i have never met a drum i could not get off you need a kr wilson puller & you have to know how to use it yes there is a proper way of using it i have been called by mechanic,s that told me it woun,t come off i always ask then if it grew there then i remove it for them.when they see how i do it they feel stupid it,s so simple. been doing fords over 70 years

[Mart]

That's great. Would you care to share the inside dope?

Mart.

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by richard crow

i have never met a drum i could not get off you need a kr wilson puller & you have to know how to use it yes there is a proper way of using it i have been called by mechanic,s that told me it woun,t come off i always ask then if it grew there then i remove it for them.when they see how i do it they feel stupid it,s so simple. been doing fords over 70 years

we're all waiting ........

[Newc]

Hi all; Local V8 member just went thru this and found the key was installed with a sharp corner upwards and it bit into the hub. Had the split the hub to get it off. We made a 'Hard Luck" trophy out of it. RG #85 newc

[Tinker]

Best to my knowledge.... the key needs to be installed right. Directional.

But in 10yrs the replacement keys will just be a bad piece of cheap steel with no tapered end. Too much?? sorry

[Pete]

As has been posted many times before, if you lap the hub to the axle to 100% surface, you do not need a key till you get over 300 hp and 10 inch wide tires.

[5lugnuts]

i have never met a drum i could not get off you need a kr wilson puller & you have to know how to use it yes there is a proper way of using it i have been called by mechanic,s that told me it woun,t come off i always ask then if it grew there then i remove it for them.when they see how i do it they feel stupid it,s so simple. been doing fords over 70 years

we're all waiting ........

I'm not as knowledgeable as you guys or as experienced. This is only what worked for me many years ago. Apply the puller to one side of the axle (hub) and tighten it as best you can (don't break anything). Now, jack up the other side of the axle and put a jack stand under it. Go back to the puller and give it a whack or two, then tighten the puller again. Give it another whack and tighten again and whack again until it pops.

I think the trick is in the differential. The opposite axle has to be able to move away when you whack the puller. If it can't move, then your whacking one axle against the other and with the opposite wheel on the floor your working against yourself. It worked and made sense at the time.