Hard to Start

[Darrell S]

The 48 has been running well. Has new wire, rebuilt generator, rebuilt coil, new voltage regulator (NOS). Has been starting easily hot or cold.

Yesterday evening I drove to a friends place and the car had sat for about 1.5 hours. When I tried to start it up I had plenty of cranking power but it would not fire. Tried starting fluid, still no fire. Removed a plug wire to see if there was spark and that time it started right up. This was about the third try after sitting for a few minutes between tries.

I am wondering what to look at.

[rockfla]

I did not see "condenser" in you're list!! Many stories here on the barn of brand new ones being installed on one day, the next day they don't work!!!

[rockfla]

IF I were you, I'd call Bubba's ignition (he is here on the barn) (And just saw he is having health issues) he has some good high quality condensers that he is having made (I believe & not cheap up front) but over the long haul they will get cheaper and cheaper when you have no more condenser issues!!! IF he doesn't have what you need he can suggest a source!!!

[Mart]

With respect, I wouldn't be bothering Bubba right now.

[deuce_roadster]

I would check 2 things: The contact brush and plate in the switch on the steering column, and the resistor. Either one can cause intermittent issues. I suspect during the "no start" time the wire to the coil was at zero or less then 4 volts.

[Darrell S]

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Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I would check 2 things: The contact brush and plate in the switch on the steering column, and the resistor. Either one can cause intermittent issues. I suspect during the "no start" time the wire to the coil was at zero or less then 4 volts.

This one does not have the steering column switch. Do you mean the resistor on the coil?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Mart

With respect, I wouldn't be bothering Bubba right now.

Yep, believe he is in overload right now.

[Darrell S]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Yep, believe he is in overload right now.

I have read the thread on Jim Linder and would not even consider contacting him. I'll add him to my prayer list.

[deuce_roadster]

Darrell S, Yes check the resister or jump around it next time it won't run. Also check the voltage coming to the coil. That resistance wire in the resistor can have a break where it still makes contact and the car runs but after it heats up, it pulls apart until it cools down again. I know of 2 cases where this has happened. Make sure your coil doesn't have an internal resistor if you have an external one. I am not familiar with the later (41-8) cars as to where the ignition resistor is.

[TJ]

Mike on the later cars the resistor sits right next to the coil.

[A bones]

Originally Posted by Darrell S

The 48 has been running well. Has new wire, rebuilt generator, rebuilt coil, new voltage regulator (NOS). Has been starting easily hot or cold.

Yesterday evening I drove to a friends place

and the car had sat for about 1.5 hours.

When I tried to start it up I had plenty of cranking power but it would not fire.

Tried starting fluid, still no fire.

Removed a plug wire to see if there was spark and that time it started right up.

This was about the third try after sitting for a few minutes between tries.

I am wondering what to look at.

I'm thinking about time. Time enough to cool. Time enough for the fuel bowl to drain, and thoroughly flood the manifold. Time enough for the ether to dry the plugs, and for it to kick with one wire loosened.

Just sayin'

[tubman]

Originally Posted by rockfla

IF I were you, I'd call Bubba's ignition (he is here on the barn) (And just saw he is having health issues) he has some good high quality condensers that he is having made (I believe & not cheap up front) but over the long haul they will get cheaper and cheaper when you have no more condenser issues!!! IF he doesn't have what you need he can suggest a source!!!

I make reproduction aftermarket brass condensers. Bubba has sent a couple out on a dual coil he did. I have been making these off and on for three years and have about 100 out in service and so far none have failed. These are .22 micro-farad units made with modern severe duty film capacitors in a fabricated case that closely resembles the Big Brass condensers of yore. I am setting up to make another production run the end of this month, so if you're interested, let me know. I get $60 plus shipping when I sell them on eBay, but charge forum members $50 plus shipping. I send them in a small flat rate box which is $7.20 domestically.

[deuce_roadster]

Thanks Tom, I haven't owned any old Ford newer then 40. I am ignorant about them so now I at least know that. My hot rod cars have 59 series engines but have no idea how a stocker should be. My 33 is stock as well as the 40 wagon.