46 woody wagon top material

[46woodie]

I am ready to install the top material on my wagon but a little confused. Does the first denim layer attach with tacks UNDER the front moulding or hidem welt at the same spot as the outer covering? . I thought it may attach inch or so back to edge of roof but dont see old tack marks. Use tacks like I have or staple? Thanks!

[DavidG]

Unless you have a lot of experience working with staples, you can "pin-tack" (not drive the tacks all the way in) and readily remove them as you work progressively to achieve the smoothest, wrinkle-free fit of the fabric. The two rear corners of a station wagon roof are something of a challenge in that regard.

[42merc]

On original '41-'48 Ford wagons , there is no material under the 'long-short grain' top material.

[46woodie]

This is Lebarron Bonney and basically requires you have a what amounts to"headliner". Underside of top material would not look that appealing through slats. Just thought someone may have done this before and could reply as correct spot to tack headliner

[deuce_roadster]

In addition to what 42merc said, after checking Nick Alexander's unrestored 40 Ford wagon with original top at the previous GNM in Tahoe, I confirmed with the judges that a 40 wagon also does not have anything between the top slats and the top material. So when I installed my top, I didn't use material there. There was some very thin cotton batting on the front header only originally on my car. I know L.B. sends cloth for this purpose but if your car is for the concourse don't use it. I have had my 40 judged twice and lost no points on the top for NOT having this material (score 987). Not sure about other earlier years.
Also, as DavidG stated, you will have fun with the rear corners. I did my top out in the sun on a hot day to help it stretch.

[DavidG]

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Sadly, LeBaron Bonney's understandable cutbacks in personnel in the face of shrinking demands for their products has left them short in the 'knowledge of originality' department. You pretty much have to do your own homework if you are striving for originality. This is not sour grapes as I have been a loyal customer of theirs for fifty years; it's just the reality of what is happening within the hobby.

[46woodie]

So, originally the fabric seen through the top slats was just the botton of topping material? Not very interesting or showy. But,- that explains reason for not as many tack holes as I expected

[Bill]

Since no one has mentioned it yet in this post the correct way to install the top fabric is to start at the back center. Do it in the hot sun. Have at least two people on either side stretching the fabric for all they are worth. Tack toward the corners every 3to4". Don't drive the tacks home till the corners are fitted tight as you may have to pull one or two to get the tension required to eliminate any creases at the corners. With the back corners tight you can work your way toward the front with your help stretching the fabric tight as you tack. The Lebaron fabric is barely wide enough to do a 41/48 wagon but it will stretch under the hot June sun. Did mine 35 years ago it has held up very well after 50K miles of use. The tacks used to secure the drip rails also serve to secure the top fabric. "johnny", Fordbarn member reproduces the drip rails for reasonable cost. Your help will appreciate a cold one or two after the job is done! Bill

[46woodie]

Thanks Bill! LB instructions say to start at front but will take your advice. I have all original drip rails etc,excellent condition. Did you put the headliner under yours or keep it off? We have plenty of Hot weather coming up here in Iowa so will no problem there. Do you do entire resto on your woody? Thanks!

[woodiewagon46]

As others have pointed out, there is no denim layer. The fabric you see through the roof slats is the under side of the roof material. Try to do the job on the hottest day. Roll out the material and let it absorb the heat. I started in the center and as David suggests tack, stretch and re-tack. One hint, run a thin bead of roofing calk about two inches behind the front of the rear header. This prevents the extreme rear of the material from stretching and "puffing" out when you are driving with the windows open. The air gets trapped between the roof slats and can get between the rear header and the roof material and on a hot day can distort the material.I have also heard of using clamps every foot or so and attaching gallon jugs of water to help stretch the material. Take your time and you will be fine.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Sadly, LeBaron Bonney's understandable cutbacks in personnel in the face of shrinking demands for their products has left them short in the 'knowledge of originality' department. You pretty much have to do your own homework if you are striving for originality. This is not sour grapes as I have been a loyal customer of theirs for fifty years; it's just the reality of what is happening within the hobby.

Amen Dave! The last two kits I'd received from LB had obvious flaws due to (I've little doubt) carelessness and / or "not giving a poop" attitude when producing.

I wonder how long they will be able to compete with other suppliers that offer less than stellar products but at a much reduced cost.
For now at least, I'll stay with them but maintain an even more keen eye on what I receive.

I did manage to get them to change their '40 coupe headliners a few years back while Wendie had yet to retire. She was, in my opinion, one of the last (perhaps the last),person there that actually gave a poop. LB had been providing obvious incorrect liners for '40 coupes for years upon years. No longer

[DavidG]

With respect, LB/B's instruction to start at the front makes the most sense as that's the easiest and narrowest end. The difficult and widest end with the two rear corners and the back edge, is best tackled last when everything else is largely concluded, not the other way around.

[woodiewagon46]

Right, the back corners must be nice and rounded with no creases or folds. Drives me crazy when I see folds on those corners.

[DavidG]

Until vinyl replaced pyroxylin (artificial leather of the period), folds on the corners were standard equipment as that earlier fabric did not/does not either stretch nor contract, unlike vinyl.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

With respect, LB/B's instruction to start at the front makes the most sense as that's the easiest and narrowest end. The difficult and widest end with the two rear corners and the back edge, is best tackled last when everything else is largely concluded, not the other way around.

Right on once again...

Those devilish corners are fairly easy to smooth out with a heat gun. However, one must be confident in their ability to judge when it is hot enough but not too hot.

[DavidG]

That's the nice part about vinyl. Heat has no effect on pyroxylin, unfortunately (except perhaps to court catching it on fire).