The Ford Barn

KEN2939 · 01-29-2018, 08:43 PM

got the 31 tudor interior apart, found both body sub rails rusted along with cross bars. going to order parts. any advise when replacing the sub rails.

SSsssteamer · 01-30-2018, 12:45 AM

I found out when riveting my new sub rails into our 1930 phaeton, with my riveting gun, I had to turn the air pressure down from 120 to 60 PSI. At the higher pressures, the riveting gun was hammering the crap out of the rivets and making a mess of them. At the lower pressure, the results looked professional. If you can, get someone to help buck the rivets. I did all of our 1930 phaetons all by my self, and it was awkward doing it by myself. For a rivet gun, I used one of those "Harbor Freight" type of air chisel guns. With the correct rivet anvil in it, it worked well.

Big hammer · 01-30-2018, 10:01 AM

Only replace metal that absolutely needs replaced. All air hammers aren’t rivet guns, buy a rivet gun. Check with aircraft suppliers for rivet guns, borrow from a local A&P mechanic. Don’t enlarge the old rivet holes, be very careful drilling out the old rivets. Practice riveting on like metal pieces, don’t practice on your car.

Bob Bidonde · 01-30-2018, 10:10 AM

If you are replacing a substantial segments of the body sub-rails, I strongly advise you to align the doors so the belt moldings line up, and then tack weld the doors to the body. Keep the gas tank and firewall secured to the cowl. These actions will hold the body in proper alignment while you replace the sub-rails.

Bob C · 01-30-2018, 12:10 PM

Definitely need a rivet gun not a chipping gun.
I got one of these. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...onorivguns.php

Bob

Cool Hand Lurker · 01-31-2018, 11:17 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

If you are replacing a substantial segments of the body sub-rails, I strongly advise you to align the doors so the belt moldings line up, and then tack weld the doors to the body. Keep the gas tank and firewall secured to the cowl. These actions will hold the body in proper alignment while you replace the sub-rails.

It would also pay to have a total frame alignment done on the car before starting any frame work. Frames do sag and twist over 85 years. Any collision shop will have the rack that can push and pull the frame back into shape. Hopefully you can find one with a guy that knows old car frames. The shop I used is owned by a guy who is a Model T owner and knew what he was doing. You can over-do the job sometimes too, so it is advantageous to get someone experienced in antique cars.

BillCNC · 01-31-2018, 01:09 PM

About the frame shop,

I tried like hell to get a frame shop to straighten my frame, NOBODY will touch them now. The machines they use today would rip the hell out of our frames. Clamping methods have changed so the clamps have a hard time staying on.

I had a guy walk me through all the issues he was talking about and most of them seemed reasonable. I ended up straightening my own frame with 3 chains, a Porta-Power and a railroad tie. The front of the frame needed to move to the right .5" and both rails needed to be straightened.

Straightening your frame yourself is easier than one would think.

Regards
Bill

01-29-2018, 08:43 PM	#1
KEN2939 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 15	body frame rail replacment got the 31 tudor interior apart, found both body sub rails rusted along with cross bars. going to order parts. any advise when replacing the sub rails.

01-30-2018, 10:01 AM	#3
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,127	Re: body frame rail replacment Only replace metal that absolutely needs replaced. All air hammers aren’t rivet guns, buy a rivet gun. Check with aircraft suppliers for rivet guns, borrow from a local A&P mechanic. Don’t enlarge the old rivet holes, be very careful drilling out the old rivets. Practice riveting on like metal pieces, don’t practice on your car. __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

01-30-2018, 10:10 AM	#4
Bob Bidonde Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 3,464	Re: body frame rail replacment If you are replacing a substantial segments of the body sub-rails, I strongly advise you to align the doors so the belt moldings line up, and then tack weld the doors to the body. Keep the gas tank and firewall secured to the cowl. These actions will hold the body in proper alignment while you replace the sub-rails. __________________ Bob Bidonde

01-30-2018, 12:10 PM	#5
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,743	Re: body frame rail replacment Definitely need a rivet gun not a chipping gun. I got one of these. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...onorivguns.php Bob

01-31-2018, 01:09 PM	#7
BillCNC Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: SoCal Desert Posts: 826	Re: body frame rail replacment About the frame shop, I tried like hell to get a frame shop to straighten my frame, NOBODY will touch them now. The machines they use today would rip the hell out of our frames. Clamping methods have changed so the clamps have a hard time staying on. I had a guy walk me through all the issues he was talking about and most of them seemed reasonable. I ended up straightening my own frame with 3 chains, a Porta-Power and a railroad tie. The front of the frame needed to move to the right .5" and both rails needed to be straightened. Straightening your frame yourself is easier than one would think. Regards Bill