1936 Phaeton glove box door - Rubics cube ?

[Jacques1960]

I need to remove the glove box door to use for a computer paint match; while box itself and door hinge screws have been removed, can’t for the life of me figure out how to remove the door / hinge assembly.

Should it be possible to compress the short portions of the hinge which slide into the rolled steel “tubes” at the bottom of the door, or is there a clever way to jiggle the hinge out while still attached to the door itself ?

Thank you

[V8ER]

The door goes out through the back toward the firewall, and then reinstalls toward you from under the cowl. It only took me a few hours to figure that out.

I have the Benton Gray formula if you are doing an early '36. I also have the '35 formula.

[Jacques1960]

So I’m clear - I push it forward ??

[V8ER]

Correct.

[Jacques1960]

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[Jacques1960]

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Thank you

[Jacques1960]

Still can’t get it through - the door itself is wider than the opening in which it sits due to the flange around the edge of the glove box opening in the dash.

[Jacques1960]

This is design in question

[mercman from oz]

1936 Ford Roadster/Phaeton Glove Box in open position.

[Jacques1960]

Exactly - but how to remove the door ???

[rich b]

Can't see why it would be any different than a closed car glove box, take the spring thing off, take all the screws out, slide box back, and rotate the hinge leaf around, and lift the door out.

[Jacques1960]

The “ears” to which the lower portion of the glove box attach protrude farther than the width of the hinge plate, which seems to prevent removing the door by rotating the hinge plate forward / up. I’m clearly missing something.

[rich b]

That hinge area is certainly different than a closed car dash. After playing with a loose door in an old dash; I think I can see how it could be removed thru the opening and out the back as described earlier.

[mercman from oz]

Here are pictures of a 1936 Ford RHD Open Car Glove Box Lid, showing the Bracket that attaches it to the Dash Board. Hope that these pictures help.

[Jacques1960]

Thank you very much. My glove box door is not symmetrical and is wider on one side. The hinge is attached to the body not with a single, continuous plate as shown in your photo, but with two small, free-moving tabs.

It took quite a bit of time, and I’m not sure I could readily do it again, but the trick seems to be to angle the narrow side of door in slightly while moving the door to one side, allowing the hinge bar and tab to clear first one “ear”, then doing the same with the other.

Reinstalling the glove box took some fettling as well given blind nature of bottom nuts / washers.

I finally wound up using Loctite super glue to adhere the washers to the nuts, then taping these assemblies to the underside of the glove box in the correct positions. Once threaded onto the screws, my longest / smallest needle nose pliers could hold the nuts while turning the screws with a very short stubby screwdriver.

Will not repeat !

[Jacques1960]

PS - even with all surrounding areas protected with masking tape, I did some minor damage to the area directly below the glove box door. In the future, I’ll first put down a layer of masking tape, then apply a sturdier protective layer of Gorilla tape to the masking tape itself.

As an aside, when using magnetic based flashlights anywhere on the body I now apply Frog Tape before attaching the light - the magnetic bases are fairly strong and always seem to find any stray filings, etc.