A new distributor

[37 Coupe]

Any recommendations on a new distributor? Not wanting to go electronic but is there an advantage to the ones rebuilt with new or more modern plates? Some I see have the condensor inside the cap,mayby cooler farther away from manifold.If anything like the Ford Flathead V8 distributors the failing point always seems to be cheap China made points anymore.

[Bob-A]

Buy an old used one off of eBay or the Swap Meet here on the ...'Barn
and rebuild it yourself. They are very basic and you can get anything you
need for them from one of the Model-A parts vendors. As to which is better:
original or modern points?!? Both have their pluses and minuses. Both of my "A's" have modern points on them, that's the way I got them. They both work Okay so I'm leaving them on for now. My '31 roadster has a "B" block in it with the original timing cover. Eventually I will set up a "B" automatic advance distributor in it with one I have rebuilt.


Bob-A

[JD 1931]

I have modern plate in mine and no problems for years, it has the condenser on top plate....

[JD 1931]

buy points and condenser from NAPA, better quality, 1957 ford type

[jhowes]

Since the new condensers have been around that heat does not seem to bother, the original set up works fine. That's all I have had for 50 years and many miles. No failures, works great. Jack

[Kurt in NJ]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Original plates usually fit the center hole better, less dwell change when adjusting timing, no need to keep a list of NAPA dealers, get old production original points, A&L condenser and you won't have anything to do for many years, I havn't done anything but lube and clean in over 30 years-----unless you have a "need" to tinker and visit NAPA

[holdover]

have both original and modern top plate in my 5 As, see no difference in either. They are easy to rebuild if you are into things like this, except for the fact you will need to buy a reamer for the bushings or borrow one. All the parts are available at a reasonable price. I bought my reamer off Ebay for $10 delivered. Bought original Ford Motorcraft points for $6.00 a pair on Ebay, the ones you need for the modern top plate are for 57-74 ford.

[37 Coupe]

I just bought the '31 a week and a half ago and am rebuilding the carburetor that is the usual Tilotson issues. I figure something is wrong with the distributor and mayby timing as when I went to start car to load on trailer the seller guy hollered at me don't advance the lever all the way up! It will never start there.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

...is there an advantage to the ones rebuilt with new or more modern plates?

Nope

[37 Coupe]

Well then is there a disadvantage?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On Minerva, I used a NEW, single point Mallory distributor & she drove like a DIFFERENT CAR!
Bill Sparkinggood

[Jacksonlll]

Here is a disadvantage of the modern set up. I just can’t lean over to the top of the distributor long enough to adjust those modern points. It always changes a little as I tighten things up. So it takes a lot more leaning over for modern and it is pretty easy dealing with the old point set up.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

Well then is there a disadvantage?

Setting the points, but how often do you have to do that.? Stay away from the wireless plates as they can cause intermittent problems.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

On older distributors a mod can be made to easily oil the upper distributor bearing, small diameter hole drilled down through the shaft under the cam screw, and then horizontally A hole over to the bearing. Add a couple of drops of motor oil occasionally. This is something people who worked on my car suggested when my distributor went bad at the bearings. Sorry I can not supply details since I did not do the work. Am not sure if new/ and rebuilt old design distributors have his feature.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

On older distributors a mod can be made to easily oil the upper distributor bearing, small diameter hole drilled down through the shaft under the cam screw, and then horizontally A hole over to the bearing. Add a couple of drops of motor oil occasionally. This is something people who worked on my car suggested when my distributor went bad at the bearings. Sorry I can not supply details since I did not do the work. Am not sure if new/ and rebuilt old design distributors have his feature.

I drill a hole trough the screw as well and squirt some teflon lube througgh the little tube that comes with it into the hole. It finds its way into the bearing and there is NO undoing anything.

[michael a]

And electronic ignition is out of the question

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I drill a hole trough the screw as well and squirt some teflon lube througgh the little tube that comes with it into the hole. It finds its way into the bearing and there is NO undoing anything.

Thanks for the tip. Teflon lube that comes with it, what is "it"?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Thanks for the tip. Teflon lube that comes with it, what is "it"?

I'm referring to the small tube that comes on the side of the can to get the spray into tiny places.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Here is a link to a shaft assembly that can be purchased, looks like holes drilled for both top and bottom bearings.


http://www.nurex.com/upper-distributor-shaft

[Kurt in NJ]

if you oil the dist as the owners instruction book says oil will get to the top bushing ----most dist lube instructions for other cars say "a few drops", the Ford instructions say fill it, if you take the oil can and give a good squirt and totally fill the passages oil will get to the top bushing, it will get a little oil dampness at the top thrust flange