Old newbe needs help

[Royal Ryser]

I am not a newbe to the Fordbarn, but usually use the Early V8 Forum for info about my 36 Ford tudor. However, I have had a 56 T-Bird for 48 years and need some help with it. It is a 312 with auto trans., all original.
I pretty much stopped using the Bird about 28 years ago and before that could always find somebody knowledgeable to work on it, as needed. bout four years ago, I started using it again, only to discover it heated badly. I got a great carb overhaul from "scicala" and installed a NOS secondary vacuum advance mechanism, but it still overheats. I think the overheating results from the distributor setting. Now, due to age and health, I need to give this car to my daughter, and it must be "right" when she gets it.

My need is for help finding somebody who can work on these cars in the area of Ft. Collins, Greeley, Loveland or Boulder, CO. I could go as far as Denver, but that is somewhat a logistical problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Royal Ryser

[Oldmics]

See if you can find a local chapter of the CTCI Thunderbird club in your area.


Usually those local chapter folks are knowledgeable about a good source for repair personal.


I do a bunch for the local T Bird guys but I am far away from your location to be of any help.


Keep those Birds running!


Oldmics

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Royal Ryser

...
My need is for help finding somebody who can work on these cars in the area of Ft. Collins, Greeley, Loveland or Boulder, CO. I could go as far as Denver, but that is somewhat a logistical problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Royal Ryser

There is a CTCI Chapter based in Denver. They likely have members in the surrounding towns too. Here's a link to their contact info...

https://www.ctci.org/chapters/chapter06.php

[Oldmics]

Nice find dmsfrr.


I searched and could not find them. They are not listed under the Chapter 6 - Southwest listings as they should be.


Thanks for the help !


Oldmics

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Oldmics

Nice find dmsfrr.
I searched and could not find them. They are not listed under the Chapter 6 - Southwest listings as they should be.
Thanks for the help !
Oldmics

You're welcome.

Royal Ryser, if that CTCI Chapter contact info doesn't work out for you, I'm also on a '55/'57 Thunderbirds facebook page that has several members in Colorado and should be able to get them in touch with you.
dmsfrr
.

[paul2748]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Unless you are a member of CTCI, I don't think you can get into the member lists


While this date back 5 years, there is a contact number for a Daril Cinquanta in Arvada, CO. for the Colorado Classic Thunderbird Club Do a google search and you may come up with a number.


If you now have a heating problem which you didn't have before, I would pull the radiator and have it cleaned. If they find a lot of junk in it, the block may need to be flushed.

[dmsfrr]

Royal Ryser,
Here's a link for another Colorado based Thunderbird club.

http://rmtbirds.com/

[miker98038]

I understand age and being beat up requiring some help, and a shop recommended by the local club is a great start. But I think Paul’s on the right track. Even with good antifreeze, a 28 year lay up is likely a block and radiator flush for openers. How bad and under what circumstances does it overheat?

[all american boy]

Try this.


http://www.blacklabelperformance.com/


They say 50 years of experience.


They say 'bring in your grocery getter'.


They will be surprised when you pull in!

[Royal Ryser]

Originally Posted by miker98038

I understand age and being beat up requiring some help, and a shop recommended by the local club is a great start. But I think Paul’s on the right track. Even with good antifreeze, a 28 year lay up is likely a block and radiator flush for openers. How bad and under what circumstances does it overheat?

It overheats after just a couple of miles and gets hot enough to blow the coolant out of the radiator pressure tube. I have cleaned out the block as much as I can without going in through the freeze plugs, and cleaned the radiator as well (didn't rod the radiator).
I've been reading that overheating on these engines is often related to the distributor failing to advance properly. That's why I would like to find someone reliable to check out/set up the distributor.
I will be looking at the cooling system again.
Thanks to all for the help.

[Oldmics]

To properly check that 56 distributor requires both a specialised distributor machine and someone who knows how to use it.


If you suspect the distributor is the problem , I would pull it out and send it to The Philbin Group.


Call them first to make sure they are capeable of handling the 1956 dual diaphragm Load O Matic distributor. I"m pretty sure they are.


Based on your comments I think its something other than the distributor.


Oldmics

[scicala]

I agree. That sounds like pretty dramatic overheating in a short period. I don't think lack of spark advance would cause it to get that hot. Lack of spark advance does cause exhaust temps to take off though.


Sal

[dmsfrr]

'If you suspect the distributor is the problem'...
Because all the timing advance function in a Loadomatic distributor is vacuum operated and fairly straight-forward you could perform some basic diagnostics yourself before sending it away.

Timing light: With the light hooked up to cyl 1 and the engine idling note the position of the timing marks. Should be approx 8 (ish) degrees advanced. When you rev up the engine the flash should occur on the pulley farther in the 'advance' direction. (photo 1)
If it doesn't change the timing, the advance mechanism isn't working.

Double check the dwell / gap of the points. Gap = .014 to .016 and Dwell = 26 to 28 degrees.
If the dwell varies 5 degrees or more at idle the distributor needs the (upper) bushing replaced. That bushing should be oiled regularly thru the fitting on the side of the housing. (photo 2)

Breaker points plate movement: With the dist cap and rotor removed you should be able to carefully move the points mounting plate approx 1/4 to 3/8 inch in a clockwise direction. (photo 3) If not it needs to be cleaned and lightly lubricated, or replaced.

Dual vacuum canisters: Both have a rubber diaphragm inside connected to the moveable points plate. (photo 4) Rig up a 4+ ft piece of vacuum hose connected to them (one at a time) and carefully blow into the hose with your mouth. (no air pump or compressor) Each diaphragm should hold pressure and not leak thru. Part 2.. With suction on the temporary hose there should be clockwise / 'advance' movement of the points plate (photo 3) but the air will taste bad.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Royal Ryser

It overheats after just a couple of miles and gets hot enough to blow the coolant out of the radiator pressure tube. ...

Originally Posted by scicala

I agree. That sounds like pretty dramatic overheating in a short period. ...
Sal

Have you checked the thermostat? It might be stuck shut. Warm up the engine with the radiator cap off (and a large pan underneath?) to look for movement in the coolant.

Here's a link to a list of overheating causes, all of which should be considered. The rust debris photos at the bottom of the page are a very common problem. My current 292 was almost as bad.
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/Overheating.php
.

[Ole Don]

Kenz and Leslie used to be the go to people for Ford cars. If you seek them on the internet, some of the original people may still help. They did a lot of racing in the Denver area, Bonneville, and Pikes Peak. Also, if you need the distributor redone, send it to Bubba in Indy. He did two for me over the years, very good work for a reasonable amount of money. They were back in a couple weeks.

[all american boy]

Ryser


I found an old time machine shop in Colorado one time.NAPA store.


Is it that hard to find an old time radiator shop and take it in?


Have you tried calling around?

[all american boy]

Ryser


Take it here.Rocky Mountain Automotive.Fort Collins.



https://www.rockymntauto.com/


Owner has a '37 Chevy.


Lady on phone has seen old Mopar and old Chevy being worked on.


Let me know how that works.If you need one in city closer to you.


I had big fun in Fort Collins many a time when I traveled.

[rotorwrench]

I grew up up in Blizzard alley in western Kansas. I can remember some very cold winters up that way. There haven't been as many until recently. The Y-block has freeze plugs but they can still crack in some strange places too. There should be signs of coolant seepage if an external leak is present. Internal ones are a different story. A head gasket can go bad but some sign of exhaust should show up in the coolant under test. The radiator would be my first choice for possible causes. It's getting harder to find a real radiator shop these days but the Denver Metro era should still have at least one around there somewhere. If the car sets a long time, all sorts of gremlins can get in there.

[richard crow]

there is a after market steel plate that goes between the water pump & the housing assembly it cured my overheating problem. it don,t cost much & ez to install

[rotorwrench]

They have an extended impeller pump available for the Thunderbirds. There is a baffle available but the extended impeller should do the trick. Clearing out any crud from the block is a whole other problem. The belt alignment is what caused the need for that pump spacer so that slowed the pump flow down.