clutch rod clevis? 1933 model B

[1931 flamingo]

Come on Frank, take the floorboards out . DON'T put them back in until you're sure the adjustment is correct. FWIW
Paul in CT

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Come on Frank, take the floorboards out . DON'T put them back in until you're sure the adjustment is correct. FWIW
Paul in CT

You are right... My floor is a metal/steel plate.
But I have to stop creeping under the car. Sometimes, things have to be taken apart to gain access.

[VeryTangled]

Oh my YES. Just for the extra light I'd pull the floor up. On my cars 35 & 36 V-8's it's a bit of a pain, but I think I've done it about twenty times one each car. Wooden toe boards gotta come out for most of these kind of jobs.

[DavidG]

Jeff,


'33-'34 four-cylinder passenger cars have only steel floor boards (except for the battery cover), unlike the V-8 versions. A steel stamping was required to provide clearance for the starter protrusion on the flywheel housing given the set-back position of the engine/transmission assembly. The pedal cover plates are unique as well.

Both the LHD and late '33-'34 RHD versions are shown below.

[cas3]

i have a left / drive one of those if any one is in need

[VeryTangled]

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Originally Posted by DavidG

Jeff,

'33-'34 four-cylinder passenger cars have only steel floor boards (except for the battery cover), unlike the V-8 versions. A steel stamping was required to provide clearance for the starter protrusion on the flywheel housing given the set-back position of the engine/transmission assembly. The pedal cover plates are unique as well.

Both the LHD and late '33-'34 RHD versions are shown below.

Thank you David. I didn't know that about the 33-34 four's. Heck there's almost everything I don't know about those year vehicles. I learn a lot by reading your work!

[DavidG]

Jeff,


Thanks, but I've also learned from you and many other contributors on this site.


David

[FrankWest]

the clutch clevis seemed to be fused to the screw thread, Maybe should consider getting new clevis rod assembly unless I can get the clevis to unscrew. What is the screw rod assemble called?

[Zeke3]

Frank, my 1928-1937 Chassis Parts List shows the clutch pedal release for the 1933 passenger car is part number 46-7521 rod, (clutch pedal to release arm) (use with "B" design pedals) 4cyl. The clevis is p/n 46-7532 clevis, (clutch pedal to release arm) (use with "B" design pedals) 4cyl.

[DavidG]

Zeke3,


With respect, I believe that you meant the part number for the rod to be 46-7521, not 46-2571.


Frank (not your real name),


You first need to determine if you have the early (A-suffix) or late (B-suffix) clutch pedal. The quick way to determine that is how the pedal pad is attached to the pedal. If the pedal pad is simply screwed into a threaded hole in the pedal, then you have the late pedal. If there is a nut and lock washer holding the pedal pad in place then you have the early, A-suffix clutch pedal. Only the B-suffix pedal uses the 46-7532 clevis; the A-suffix pedal uses the B-7532 clevis.

[Zeke3]

Thanks David, that is what I meant. Thanks for correcting my error.

[FrankWest]

Thanks, will check

[Terry,OH]

Unless your going to replace the clevis, you will have to disassemble the existing assembly. worn pins should also be replaced.

[FrankWest]

Great news.
after saturating the clevis threaD WITH GIBBS OIL IS WAS ABLE TO unscrew it.
I am not cleaning out the threads. Is the clevsis threaDED ALL THE WAY THROUGH?

[DavidG]

Here's a photo of a 46-7521 clutch release rod. It is much shorter than the '33-'34 V8 rod (40-7521) or that in the photo above ('35-'36, part number 48-7521). Its short length reflects the setback position of the four-cylinder engine in a '33-'34 chassis compared to that of the V8.


Yes, the clevis is threaded all the way through.

[FrankWest]

Thanks. David..You are the Einstein of Fords.

[DavidG]

You're welcome!

[FrankWest]

Thanks for all your help guys, I cleaned up the clevis and cleared the threads out, now I am cleaning up the threaded shaft, should have it back together tomorrow. Then I will attempt to adjust to the correct length to allow proper operation.
Thanks agin for all your help, I will let you know how I make out.

[VeryTangled]

As suggested, Frank, I'd get a new clevis pin. Yours is probably worn in at least one place. The ones on my '35 for clutch and brake were just plain shot/sh?t. Get in touch with Michael Driskell, he hooked me up with replacements that solved some of the slop problem. The new clutch rod pieces did the rest.

The pin can be worn so can the hole in the rod...

[FrankWest]

Thanks for your insights, guys like me that don't know what they are doing really need your help.
On one side of my clevis the hole is slighty oblong? should I replace.