overheating at 40 or more

[bigd1101]

So.....I flushed the radiator with vinegar, then Thermocure, got the grease out with simple green filled it with 50/50 just up to the radiator tubes and she still boils over and shoots past 200 about a mile down the road. At fast idle in the garage, she'll run at 160 all day long. I'm thinking the radiator is still plugged and needs to be rodded out.......any thoughts??

[Jim/GA]

I agree. May need rodded out. And if that does not do it, replace it. Your radiator shop may offer advice, once they get the tanks off. If they say replace it and don't waste your money rodding it out, listen to them.
.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by bigd1101

So.....I flushed the radiator with vinegar, then Thermocure, got the grease out with simple green filled it with 50/50 just up to the radiator tubes and she still boils over and shoots past 200 about a mile down the road. At fast idle in the garage, she'll run at 160 all day long. I'm thinking the radiator is still plugged and needs to be rodded out.......any thoughts??

Not sure what else you've done.


Should have done the simple green 1st, thermocure will not cut oil/grease. Grease/oil blocks Thermocure from working properly.


You may be able to just use your fingers/hand and feel for cool spots on the radiator. IR temp gun the radiator tubes when warm /hot, see if any are substantially colder than the others, indicates blocked tubes. I believe temperature from top to bottom of the radiator should be 20- 30 degrees minimum if cooling properly


Napa Block Test Kit, see if exhaust gasses in coolant.


Take the hoses off and inspect the tanks and tube openings with a borescope. While your at it, look in the bottom of the block through the lower hose opening, look through the head outlet neck and see what you see. Can also take the Waterpump off and look in without and with the borescope.


If you flush backflush with water, are there flakes and grit and nasty brown water? If yes you could still have rust/flake/grit in the cooling system. Before running again put in an upper hose filter. Pantyhose works, especially for short term use. In your case check the filter extremely frequently. Also clean before and after every flush, and before and after every backflush so reversing direction does not flush the derbis back into the cooling system.

[eagle]

Here is a decent borescope: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2IN1-Endosc...r=485086912602
Use it on a laptop to give you a bigger, more detailed picture or else use it on an Android phone if you can deal with the smaller picture. I have one of these in my shop and its amazing how often I use it to look around where I normally can't see.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I tried one of the USB borescopes. I have an old S5 android cell phone, spent 3 weeks on and off trying to get it to talk to my phone, including their tech support. Not worth sending back for the price. So it as either buy a new phone, or get an all in one - got the all in one. Got the lizard cam, is ok, took forever before they shipped it, and got the optional 4 ft. cable, wish the able was longer, but ok for most uses.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Good afternoon...Check your timing if you have not already. Also it is possible that the impeller on your water pump is slipping. This does happen now and again. It may also be eaten away a bit. Ernie in Arizona

[woofa.express]

My ute does not perform as well as my Tourer. A mechanic looked at it and found the distributor housing advance / retard slot prevent full advance. He compared to the Tourer and yes they were not in the same place. It was easy to correct and now coupled with a new radiator is much cooler. Was it the lack of advance or was it the new radiator. Probably a combination of both.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

When a car overheats ABOVE a certain speed, it's usually a partially clogged radiator. My '59 Studebaker Lark 6 cylinder,, would overheat over 50 MPH. It had what looked like head gasket scrapings, stuck in the top of the radiator tubes.A quick back flush & it ran OK!
Bill W.

[bigd1101]

I removed the radiator which was pretty easy as I have quick release connections on the lights and horn. I'll have the rad shop look at it. I was also thinking I'd use my power-washer to blast out the water jacket, if that's a good idea....through the goose neck and the side tube on the block.



As far as the timing, would it just overheat at higher speeds if that is causing the boiling over? I ran it at high idle for 30 mins in the garage and she stayed at 160-70.








The previous owner said at high speeds on this car, the spark advance doesn't like to be more than half way down. He said it will stall out if it is. I'm not sure if I had it half way......I thought I did, but if not would that cause overheating? Also I set the air/gas mix screw about 1 1/2 turns out. Could it be running too rich?


Also......if I get a new radiator, the 8 fins per inch rads says: "Warning - the neck has 1-1/2 inch ID opening. Moto- Meter and Quail caps may need some Dremel grinding to fit.


The 5 1/2 in per in doesn't mention that. Obviously the better the cooling power rad seems to be the way to go, or would a standard 5 1/2 in rad do the job?? Sorry about all the questions but it's frustrating to get a car and have it overheat right off the bat.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Check your radiator, if a 2 row core 8 fin, have it re-cored with a 3 or 4 row 8 or 10 fin core. Or buy a high quality replacement radiator. I have a 2 row 8 fin, and have recently learned through the Barn they will generally overheat in warmer weather and at more than 35 MPH, even when new.


Suggestions


Since you have the radiator off, it is a great time to thoroughly inspect/clean the head/block.


If lots of crud is in the lower block opening - scraping, some use a screwdriver, some use a speedometer cable frayed on one end, other end in a power drill to loosen the rust. A lot of rust/scale collect in cylinder 3/4 jackets.


Block/seal the lower hose inlet, remove the water pump and seal the opening, pour in the rust remover of your choice. Let sit for a long time. Flush, power wash it desired, some will then flush in the other direction. If using white vinegar or something acidic, put water/baking soda in and let sit to neutralize remnants of the white vinegar.


Install an upper hose filter to prevent clogging of your refurbished or new radiator.

Research the Barn if you have the time, lots of info on overheating and radiators, so you can make an informed decision. Bergs Radiators are frequently mentioned as being one of the best, there are others that also will work


Replacement is expensive with one of the better radiators. I recommend spending the money so you are not disappointed if you have issues with the cheaper ones.


Sorry, can not answer the motto meter issue, do not use one. I prefer and have installed an in cab temperature gauge in the Head coolant outlet neck. I think I remember seeing a thread with info about the moto meter issue, perhaps you can try a search, or others can point you in the right direction.


Good Luck!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Adding Info

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Adding more info. Had an issue with previous post - no info


As Bill mentions above - majority/typical culprit is radiator when overheating at speed/under load. This can also happen with exhaust gasses getting into the radiator - a less common cause.


Sounds like your motor may be mis- timed points gap mis-adjusted, gap your points and time the motor. The easiest way to time is using a Nu Rex Timing Wrench - inexpensive tool. Normally at high speeds lever should be 3/4 to full down. Usually overheating is caused by spark retarded, yours seems too far advanced which is what yours may be. If too advanced you may hear the motor pinging under load (hills).


Sounds like you are looking at a Brassworks radiator, in the past they have had minor fitment issues, not sure if that is still so. A lot of Barn members like the Bergs, no reports of Bergs fitment or other issues.


I think you are referring to what is called the GAV Adjustment Rod inside the A. It changes some when warming up. 1 1/2 half turns is the usual when starting Usually you adjust this at idle for smoothest motor running. GAV is usually set when Motor is warmed to full clockwise, and 1/4 to 1/2 turn counter clockwise. If you have a owners manual, a lot of info is in it. If not, then you either have a carb issue or it needs adjustment.


If your A is newer to you this is a great time to check as much diagnostics as you can for overall condition - Borescope: Radiator/block/head, and Cylinders through spark plug holes, IR temp Gun radiator/block cooling, Radiator Block Test kit and compression test - Motor head gasket/valves/piston rings .

[bigd1101]

Good advice. No matter what I end up doing I just bought a Gano see thru filter. Do I need to take the metal water jacket tube off to get the the rear of the water jacket or can I just power wash up through the tube then power wash down through the goose neck opening? I did use Thermocure after the first boil over, AFTER using white vinegar and flushing that out a few times with fresh water, but as I know now, to no avail.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I had same issues as you, Rust in the cooling system. Have been trying to resolve it for 2 years. As posted above, recently found out I also have a poor design radiator.


Power wash - not sure if you have to take the neck off, I have not personally used this method. I took the neck off so I could look inside and see condition. With all the flushing I did things were clean and power washing and the drill method were not needed. Visual confirmation is great. You absolutely know condition before reassembly. I did not have a borescope at that time. Suggest ordering a replacement gasket for the neck so when you reassemble you have one.


When you install the GANO, be careful. Reviews o line say the clear Gano is prone to cracking. Perhaps others on the Barn have tips for installation.


I sure do hope you have done the baking soda/water flush after using White Vinegar. Sometimes even flush/backflush with water is not good enough. The vinegar starts a reaction in the metal that is difficult to stop even with lots of flushing, and keeps on going and very slowly keeps attacking the internals of the cooling system.

[bigd1101]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

I had same issues as you, Rust in the cooling system. Have been trying to resolve it for 2 years. As posted above, recently found out I also have a poor design radiator.


Power wash - not sure if you have to take the neck off, I have not personally used this method. I took the neck off so I could look inside and see condition. With all the flushing I did things were clean and power washing and the drill method were not needed. Visual confirmation is great. You absolutely know condition before reassembly. I did not have a borescope at that time. Suggest ordering a replacement gasket for the neck so when you reassemble you have one.
When you install the GANO, be careful. Reviews o line say the clear Gano is prone to cracking. Perhaps others on the Barn have tips for installation.


I sure do hope you have done the baking soda/water flush after using White Vinegar. Sometimes even flush/backflush with water is not good enough. The vinegar starts a reaction in the metal that is difficult to stop even with lots of flushing, and keeps on going and very slowly keeps attacking the internals of the cooling system.

Seems like a good power wash can't hurt. I might do another Thermocare treatment and leave it in a few days. Gano says the plastic ones will crack if you use "harsh" cooling systems flush. Maybe that is why they had them crack....

[Tacoma Bob]

After months going down this road I discovered my fins and tubes were no longer radiating. It was exhilarating to throw that radiator away. Bought a Brassworks and never looked back.

[bigd1101]

Originally Posted by Tacoma Bob

After months going down this road I discovered my fins and tubes were no longer radiating. It was exhilarating to throw that radiator away. Bought a Brassworks and never looked back.

Oh. hear ya.......I believe the radiator is original in my car. It's pretty dinged up and green corrosion in certain areas. I may just end up getting a new one with more tubes and fins.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by bigd1101

Oh. hear ya.......I believe the radiator is original in my car. It's pretty dinged up and green corrosion in certain areas. I may just end up getting a new one with more tubes and fins.

Put a frame around, hang it in your garage as a decoration!

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by Tacoma Bob

After months going down this road I discovered my fins and tubes were no longer radiating. It was exhilarating to throw that radiator away. Bought a Brassworks and never looked back.

This is a really good point that is often overlooked. If the fins are no longer well connected to the tubes of the radiator, which is usually done by having the fins pressed down physically over the tubes, then the fins do not take the heat away from the hot tubes and the coolant arrives at the bottom still quite hot.

On our old, original style radiators, the fins can work loose from the tubes with time, age, vibration, physical damage, etc. You don't even know it has happened. All the internal cleaning and tube rodding will not fix it. You need a new core.

[pinball73]

I had the same problem on my 29! at any road speed it would boil over. had the radiator boiled out, the shop would not remove the tanks to rod it out for fear of running it. put it back on & same problem! bought a new aluminum radiator & fixed the problem. water pump moves water faster than old plugged radiator could handle. the water pump sucks water from the engine & pushes it to the top of the radiator. the tubes were plugged & would not handle the flow that is needed to cool the engin

[30 Closed Cab PU]

When making a decision on radiator, depends if it is a show car or if you want the radiator to look original.


Research your choice for your intended result.