The Ford Barn

Synchro909 · 03-28-2018, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ruth

Your picture came thru OK. Interesting that they installed head "bolts" instead of the original studs and nuts.

Yes, Definitely NOT the way to go. Bolts use the coarse thread in the block so torquing them to 55 ftlb, won't give the same downward pressure on the head as the finer thread on the top of studs. Unless they are torqued to way more than 55, expect a leaky head gasket.

Big hammer · 03-28-2018, 09:40 PM

Standard torque for course threaded nuts and bolts is less than fine threads. Which makes me believe that course threads put more pressure on what is being secured. If the bolts holding the where torqued to 55, then it may be over torqued. I’ve wondered why course threaded studs in the block and fine threaded nuts

joshhirst13 · 03-28-2018, 10:29 PM

Yes. I got it running. Thats interesting that you guys are talking about the head gasket. I actually noticed some smoke coming out different areas of the head gasket & also seemed like the gasket was bubbling from heat, almost like a gasket wasn't used but instead some kind of tar. I don't know???? I was going to pull the head & install a copper head gasket. Would this be the way to go & also I'm assuming you guys are saying I should replace the bolts with studs & nuts. If that is the case can I replace them with studs & nuts from an 8ba flathead. I just so happen to have a whole flathead motors worth of studs from a flathead I took apart that was bad.
Thanks fellas
Josh

J Franklin · 03-28-2018, 10:38 PM

Buy new studs and nuts they are cheap insurance. When placing them just run them into the block slightly snug with some blue LockTight on the threads. When the head is off make sure it is good condition and perfectly flat.

katy · 03-29-2018, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joshhirst13

Yep. That was it. I was in such a rush to try & start the car after removing the plugs & cleaning them that I forgot to tighten them down. Ughhhhh.
Thanks

Many years ago an old Mexican told me: "Slow down and get finished sooner".
It works.

03-28-2018, 09:40 PM	#62
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,129	Re: Getting my 1931 Model A Coupe go start Standard torque for course threaded nuts and bolts is less than fine threads. Which makes me believe that course threads put more pressure on what is being secured. If the bolts holding the where torqued to 55, then it may be over torqued. I’ve wondered why course threaded studs in the block and fine threaded nuts __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

03-28-2018, 10:29 PM	#63
joshhirst13 Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Chino Posts: 45	Re: Getting my 1931 Model A Coupe go start Yes. I got it running. Thats interesting that you guys are talking about the head gasket. I actually noticed some smoke coming out different areas of the head gasket & also seemed like the gasket was bubbling from heat, almost like a gasket wasn't used but instead some kind of tar. I don't know???? I was going to pull the head & install a copper head gasket. Would this be the way to go & also I'm assuming you guys are saying I should replace the bolts with studs & nuts. If that is the case can I replace them with studs & nuts from an 8ba flathead. I just so happen to have a whole flathead motors worth of studs from a flathead I took apart that was bad. Thanks fellas Josh

03-28-2018, 10:38 PM	#64
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,961	Re: Getting my 1931 Model A Coupe go start Buy new studs and nuts they are cheap insurance. When placing them just run them into the block slightly snug with some blue LockTight on the threads. When the head is off make sure it is good condition and perfectly flat.