Shock absorber, mounting

[Werner]

Hallo!


No, my Citroen is not a 2 CV "Ente" but a 11 CV "Gangster".

I chosed the replicas of Stipe because they look pretty original. Only hydraulic absorbers really dampen properly and progressively. Friction dampers only slow down the movement. This is just like rusty spring leaves.


The Stipes are very beautiful, too much to be painted black.

I'm not sure yet how they will be hired, there was no description. But I need before one straight shock arm. It is not available in Germany, I must order that by MAC's in Titusville!

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Werner

I'm not sure yet how they will be hired, there was no description. But I need before one straight shock arm. It is not available in Germany, I must order that by MAC's in Titusville!

Werner, what is meant by "how they will be hired"?

[Werner]

Ruth,


that means how I must turn the needle screw to get more 'hard' or more 'soft'. Only in the first building time in the past there was an arrow with numbers.

[Benson]

... sorry I should read closer

[Bill Cilker]

Werner
The shock arm on the shock with the L on it is for the front and was used from Nov. 1927 to August 1928, if it has numbers on the clamping face, and from 8/28 to 8/29 if it does not have numbers.
The other arm is a rear arm with a shallow recess boss (I think, from the picture) that was used from July 1929 through Nov. 1930.
You should purchase the Restoration Guidelines from either MAFCA or MARC. It has more information than you might need.

[Railcarmover]

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If i was spending 2 grand on shocks Id call friction shocks 'riding on rusty spring leaves' too..but since Im using friction shocks Ill let the 1800 still in my wallet cushion the ride ...

To gain the correct lash up for using frictions on the rear the picture I posted shows the new mount I fabbed.

[Werner]

... sorry I should read closer

No, I think I have to write more closer. This question now only concerns the attitude of new dampers. How soft - how hard.


What is the basic setting of the hexagon adjusting screw?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Werner

No, I think I have to write more closer. This question now only concerns the attitude of new dampers. How soft - how hard.


What is the basic setting of the hexagon adjusting screw?

Hi Werner,


I saw some basic instructions somewhere, but can not now find them.


I would contact email Stipes and ask them. They may already be adjusted/tested for a basic setting.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

removed -double post

[Werner]

Hello,


I have found the instruction meanwhile. I had overlooked them among all the many customs clearance papers ...

[Werner]

Hello.

I found no hint, how the assembly of the damper connection link the upper plug screw must be tightened. Must there still be some play?

I made it now that way, that I screwed in the adjusting screw tight. Then I solved it back about 1/8 turn.


That's right?


In the pictures you can recognize the screwing depth. The difference in height is due to the fact that the green side is new and the other side has more abrasion wear in the arm ball and in the brass ball pans.

[Werner]

Hello,


one more question. When I mounted the new Stipe damper, I also overtook the shock connectors. Very noticeable was that the upper brass pans were sometimes extremely worn.

If you look at the grease supply from bottom to top, it seems that it does not necessarily go up to the top because it is already running on the bottom out.
I therefore decided to screw on the top of the housing an additional nipple, so that there lubrication is optimized.



Does anyone have an opinion?

[shark 81]

I'm running friction shocks on the front original A shocks on the back. rides very well.

[Brian SATX]

Werner, check your Private messages.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Werner

Hello,


one more question. When I mounted the new Stipe damper, I also overtook the shock connectors. Very noticeable was that the upper brass pans were sometimes extremely worn.

If you look at the grease supply from bottom to top, it seems that it does not necessarily go up to the top because it is already running on the bottom out.
I therefore decided to screw on the top of the housing an additional nipple, so that there lubrication is optimized.



Does anyone have an opinion?

Werner make sure you install new rubber seals before installing the links. The wide part of the seal on top and bottom always go up. Those are necessary to get the lubrication to the top of the link. I always pack the links with grease as much as possible before I install. On your new shock absorbers they are identified by a CW or AC front and back. To check the adjustment, install the shock with the arm attached. Raise the arm up all the way and then pull down. You should feel the most resistance pulling down. Turn the screw clockwise to increase resistance, anticlockwise to decrease resistance.

[Werner]

Hello Dennis.
Thank you for that information. I have renewed all the press rubbers and also set new sheet capsules over it. When setting the needle valve, I start with 3/4 and 1/2 turns "open" (leftturn). I like to drive soft.


Today the greases are very more thick like the grease in the construktion time. Therefore ich think, the holes are too small to get the thick grease upside. Therefore I make grease niples on the top too-.