Engine Removal Question

[FortyNiner]

So, I have a 46 Deluxe and need to pull the engine / tranny. My questions:

Better to remove the front clip first?
Engine and tranny out together or separately?

Any tips from the experienced hands?

Thanks!

DW

[f1builder]

there would be no benefit in removing the front clip dw. and if your tranny is ok i would leave it alone as well. take off the hood and there are only a few nuts and bolts to remove and you can easily lift the engine out. if you are not sure of the tranny i would pull that out as well and go through it. i just pulled and replaced the motor and tranny in my 47 tudor and it is pretty much a snap. my problems were with the wiring but my buddy is good at that so i lucked out. good luck and let us know if you have any questions.

[FortyNiner]

Cool. The condition of the tranny is unknown so it will come out. Thanks for the quick response!

DW

[Bruce Lancaster]

If removing trans, pull the front floorboard...much better access of some hard to reach stuff. Radiator out too, of course.

[Vic Piano]

I've done a good number of engine-transmission extractions on '46 -'53 Ford cars and trucks, and my '39 CS as well. I always pull the front clip, leaving the hood in place (especially on '46- '48 cars, if the hood fits properly ). As mentioned previously, to make it easy, you will need to remove the front floor pan, to get to the rear transmission mount. You can remove the front clip with the radiator attached, just make sure you disconnect all the electrical wiring for the headlights and parking lights, as well as the hood release cable, etc. This is my preferred method.

[FortyNiner]

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Great tip on the floorboard Bruce and Vic. The radiator is already out as they are much too unforgiving.

[f1builder]

the floorboard cover on many are a real bear to get off due to the screws rusting badly. i had to drill some of them out and when i re-installed the cover i used bolts instead of screws which will make it a lot easier for the next time it comes off.

[Bruce Lancaster]

I went though that experience in a garage witout electricity...I was able to rotate the things eventually by combining bad language and a big screw driver, removing some, then on the ones that rotated but would no longer unscrew, I levered up on the heads with another driver as a rotated...it was great fun, with massive blood loss and several psychotic breaks...
Most annoying was the heater. But still, removing the floor lays everything out where you can see it!
And, if new to these Fords, BUY THESE BOOKS!:

DG-069
Shop Manuals
42-48 Passenger Note: 230 pgs
42-48 Mercury Note: 230 pgs
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Price $20.00 ea (USD)


V-24
V-24
Shop Manuals
46-48 Passenger Note: 256 pgs
46-48 Mercury Note: 256 pgs
46-47 Pickup Note: 256 pgs
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Listings here from C&G Ford parts...these are based on the '46 Service manual and the '46 Canadian Ford shop manual, and are very much complementary resouces, not duplications. They will save you quarts of blood and perhaps even bits of your sanity as you figure out earlt Fordthink.

[FortyNiner]

I have worked on a flathead for a few years and learned early on that a Shop Manual is a must. Thanks for the comments.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by f1builder

the floorboard cover on many are a real bear to get off due to the screws rusting badly. i had to drill some of them out and when i re-installed the cover i used bolts instead of screws which will make it a lot easier for the next time it comes off.

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

I went though that experience in a garage witout electricity...I was able to rotate the things eventually by combining bad language and a big screw driver, removing some, then on the ones that rotated but would no longer unscrew, I levered up on the heads with another driver as a rotated...it was great fun, with massive blood loss and several psychotic breaks...

I found cutting the rusted screws off with a little cutting wheel on a Dremel the easiest.