my 34 jalopy is alive !

[cas3]

the fire breathin monster fired rite up! well, not a monster really, just an old ford. BUT...it has all the good stuff, uncle max's 97 carb, charlies fuel pump, skips water pumps and coil, bubbas crab and a new brassworks radiator. i gave it a little drink down the carb, and before it died it had already sucked fuel thru the empty, new lines and ran perfect ! i was shocked it could be so easy. ran it about 1/2 hour at a high idle. temps with my heat gun showed 172 at the top of radiator (with 180 stats?) and about 135 at the bottom, so radiator works. amazing amount of air that fan moves, gale force at high rpm. oil pressure is lower than i expected with a new motor, but acceptable at 12/45 hot. stock 8ba style pump overhauled. now i need to get a dash in so i can mount the steering column and go terrorize the neighborhood. "what the heck does he have now?", i can see the look on they're faces already, its the same every time i have a new wreck on test drives. how about that shiny stuff? found some 1 3/4 aluminum pipe in the neighbors junk pile, and made the breather tube and radiator pipes. i then discovered, it may be a good second career choice, as you can do the polishing in the lathe, which only takes one hand, and keeps the other free for drinking beer on the job ! also, the ballast in the pic is some old chrysler thing i had in stock, it shows 7.2 volts when hot, thats too much, correct?

[Brian]

Cool man! It's always exciting, isn't it? that first fire up. Get out there and terrorise the neighbourhood. Enjoy

[cas3]

thanks brian, always good to hear from you

[mercman from oz]

Bet it goes as good as it looks. Sweet.

[Charlie ny]

cas3,
Careful with that resister you could fry Skips coil..............I love your story,
always time for beer , thanks for sharing.
Charlie ny
PS.....do you have easy access to the correct resister, most here

have a box of them ?

[ct1932ford]

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Congrats! Lets see the rest of that Jalopy!

[cas3]

thanks! charlie, i can get any ballast here, just not sure which one to order. i looked thru the book at the parts store the other day and i see they have quite a wide range of resistance. i need to search here for the answer, unless some one would know off the top of the nogin, and post for me ,thanks again

[JSeery]

Need to know the resistance of the coil you are using as the first step.

[rich b]

Looking good!

[koates]

If the coil has been rewound to the original ford specs then you need the original ford resistor and nothing else. No good guessing here by using any old resistor because the coil and points in the distributer could be damaged by just a short amount of running. Get the correct resistor before starting the engine again. When testing the voltage at the coil the distributer timing points need to be closed so that the coil is energised. Voltage should be around 3 to 4.5 volts depending on how long the ignition is switched on. Better to do that quickly without the ignition being on any longer than one minute. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

The original ford resistor is .5 ohms (that's half an ohm). This suits the original 6 volt ford coil. Regards, Kevin.

[cas3]

just got home, been shopping at a big swap meet today, not much luck there. Kevin, thanks for the reply, the coil has been wound for 12v neg ground, thus the 7.2 reading with my meter. i will check coil resistance as Jerry recommends, and report back

[Tinker]

Always liked those 40's coils. Really a few year coil. Have a couple if you need a spare. Resistance is the same as the helmets. 4 or less at coil.


Interesting in car oil pressure gauge. Nice fentons!

[cas3]

i'm having issues here. i have two of skips coils, rewound for 12v, both have 12v neg grd inscribed on the back, with my initials, and both show .7 ohms resistance when i am under the impression it should be more like 1.5. .7 would be for 6 volt, correct?

[Tim Ayers]

I just got a 12V coil back from Skip. The instructions are in the box. I'll look tonight and post what it says.

[cas3]

thanks tim. i have the paper sent with mine and it does not have any info about 12 volt coils. i tried to call him, but i suspect he is working and not dilly dallying on the phone. perhaps he will call back

[cas3]

here's a good coil chat from bubba. it confirms my thoughts of 1.5 ohms should be there, but does not explain my readings. could be my meter is goofy? https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...6859&showall=1

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by cas3

thanks tim. i have the paper sent with mine and it does not have any info about 12 volt coils. i tried to call him, but i suspect he is working and not dilly dallying on the phone. perhaps he will call back

I'm fairly sure the directions talk about how to wire up the 12V coil, but I could be wrong. Let me find it and I'll post it here.

[petehoovie]

If I recall correctly, the instructions I received years ago from Skip said that his coils will work either 6 volt or 12 volt....

[Drudion]

Congratulations! Looks good

[cas3]

checked my coil at the neighbors today, his meter says the same thing, .7 ohms. i sent an email to skip, have to see what he says

[JSeery]

You normally want around 3 ohms in the circuit for 12v, so that would require around a 2.3 ohm ballast resistor. A straight 12v on that coil might damaged it, but I don't know about Skips rewinds. Let us know what he has to say.

[cas3]

thanks. it never ran straight 12v, it had the chrysler thing on the frame in the photo, had 7.2v on the dizzy side when hot. i need to get a chunk of that special wire for the run to the dizzy too. never knew that before reading bubbas post i put up here

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by cas3

thanks. it never ran straight 12v, it had the chrysler thing on the frame in the photo, had 7.2v on the dizzy side when hot. i need to get a chunk of that special wire for the run to the dizzy too. never knew that before reading bubbas post i put up here

The ceramic Chrysler style resistors can be different values. You could check it cold, but not sure how much it will change as it heats up. As an example:

NAPA:
•#ICR23 – 1.20 ohms
•#ICR11 – 1.35 ohms
•#ICR34 – 1.40 ohms
•#ICR37 – 1.60 ohms
•#ICR35 – 1.80 ohms
•#ICR13 – 1.82 ohms

Lucas* 3BR (1.3 - 1.4 Ohms)
Mopar* DCC-4529795 (1.40 Ohms)
Accel* ACC-150250 (1.35 Ohms)
Standard* RU-4 (1.35 Ohms)
Standard RU-23 (1.20 ohms)
Standard RU-37 (1.40 Ohms)

[cas3]

thanks, your example looks like what i was seeing at the parts store reading the book the other day. most are slightly above or below 1.5, so if we are trying to reach the number 3, why would the coil be so low, at .7 , and is there going to be a resistor available in the range i need to get to 3 ? perhaps, i didnt read them all at the store !

[JSeery]

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Most coils are not exactly 1.5 ohms, but in that range. Also, the total resistance doesn't need to be exactly 3.0 ohms, those are just general guidelines. I really have no idea on Skips coils, .7 sounds like a 6v coil to me and one that still requires a ballast even on 6v, but have to see what he says. On a 6v circuit you would want around 1.5, so you would think a .7 coil would require a .7 or .8 ballast. It's partly the current you are trying to limit through the points. I'm a "can" coil guy, so don't know much about the original type of coils.

[Tinker]

Good to know you are using 12v, don't think it was mentioned before.

[cas3]

skip wrote back that i need a ballast for a 59 ford. i gave him all my meter readings, but that was all he wrote. i then googled up 59 ford stuff, and it appears that a standard ru4T is the ballast, but i found no site that would give the resistance # for that unit. i wrote back to skip, asking if that would put me in the desired 3ohms for the system, and no response yet. in my googleing, i came across many threads at various ford sites discussing 50's and early 60's ford ignition systems, and most were talking about the basic 1.5, and 1.5 to get to 3 just as jseery and bubba have pointed to. searched for a 2.3 resistor, and no luck there either. i'll have to go back to the store and look in the book, more info there it seems.

[Tinker]

late 50s used a ceramic resistor to drop 12v to 6v. Internal resistance in the coil from there. Not the same coil you are using.

little of nothing to add. JohnT post?

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/c...oolt&th=272559




.

[cas3]

i think i found it!!!!!, but ...sadly, its in brazil, and my Portuguese is not too good. 2ohm https://ventro.com.br/produto/resistencia-resistor-bobina-ford-b8e12250-b8a12250-20-ohm_MLB7400618 oh shoot, the link dont work

[cas3]

been googleing till i'm cross eyed, i'm goin to bed. probably will have dreams of the bosch blue dancing around me sticking its tongue out

[corvette8n]

Cool motor, what headers are you running?

[Charlie ny]

cas#
12v coil with correct internal resistor is the Bosch Super Blue #00012 an
excellent alternative is the IC 64 or IC 14 from NAPA. If a customer wishes I provide
the NAPA coil and in some cases I get a Super Blue in the NAPA box. This info works
for me and was shared to me by Jim 'Bubba" Linder. I'm quite sure we would be lost
without Jim.
All above coils from Argentina in my experience....fwiw.

Charlie ny

[Bigjohnson]

When do we get to see the fire brethren monster on the road

[cas3]

mr corvette, thanks, those are fenton cast iron headers, just barely fit, and had to make a new dipstick and tube. charlie, thanks, i am aware of the bosch blue, have one here as a matter of fact. just going for the old look, so i had skip build me one. i asked him about making it with an internal resistor, and he stated he wont do that because too much heat in the case

[JSeery]

That is why a lot of ballast resistors are in ceramic fixtures, they dissipate a lot of heat!

[Tinker]

I like the idea of using that coil. It's not that common of a coil.


Milled the fentons a 1/8" to clear the steering box and demel relived my fentons a bit to clear the dipstick. They are thick. Good so far. It is tight on the drivers side on fentons.


Couldn't you use 2 resistors inline if you are using a stock ignition? A ceramic yblock to knock it down to 6 then a standard late 30s/ early 40s resistor? or not....

[cas3]

tinker, what are you putting fentons in? i screwed a brake fitting into the dipstick tube boss, same thread, then used a piece of 5/16 line with brake flare end to attach to the boss, then put a S curve in the line to clear the header, the got a wimpy dipstick from a modern car that would go around the corners, and brazed the flathead handle on top. funny thing, i so carefully measured to mark the new stick with a punch mark at the full level. then when i put 5 quarts in the mark is off 1/2" ! oh well, 5q is 5q

[Tinker]

The 38 truck in my aviator. They were not original fentons. Repos from speedway. 8 yrs now. I have a set of old ones burnt chrome that I would like to use on my 36 if I do a 59 motor for it. Same issue on clearance.


I was able to make it fit. It's a battle between the steering box and the dip stick. Had the intakes of the exhaust (headers) to the block milled 1/8", then relieved the header a bit to clear the dipstick. Was able to keep the rest original. Super tight.


What works, is what works.


https://www.macsautoparts.com/early_...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/8...hoCyKgQAvD_BwE

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Yep i too , love the old brown coil !!

Lets get a sheet of paper out and look this over .
We know the coil is .7 ohm and a good skip coil. We also know its a 12 volt car. Then measuring the voltage at the coil we know its 7.2 volts.....
Now total resistance using a guess at the 1.5 value and a .7 ohm coil the total resistance is 2.2 ohms .
2.2 ohms divided into 12 volt battery supply would give us a 5.45 amps primary circuit.
( may be just a little high ).
Multiply the amps x resistance ..... 5.45 x 1.5 ohms would give us a 8.1 volt at the coil.....and a 3.8 volts coil drop...
This is a little unbalanced and may be a little high voltage to the coil as well as amps. More than likely the resistor is actually lower than 1.5 ( like maybe 1.2 etc).
I would suggest increasing the resistance of the resistor to approx 1.5-1.8 etc and run it... A 1.8 resistor would lower the primary amps from 5.45 to 4.8 amps and give the system a little more life overall......

Then the output voltage of the generator running would change the equation as well ........

[cas3]

thank you bubba. i just now returned from the parts store, and studied the book. many of the ballast in the book do not show a resistor value. the counter kid got on a crossover web sight that did give us more data, but still not all the ballasts are giving all the values. of the ones shown, a standard ru 10 shows to be the highest ohm value at 1.87, used in many 50's era gm cars and trucks. interesting that the 59 ford recommended by skip is showing 1.35, coming in at the lower end of whats available. that would get me to 2.4 total, better than where its at now. they had no knowledge of the fine strand wire for the dizzy, i'll keep lookin for that. again, thanks bubba, and jseery for getting this far

[JSeery]

Here are some Ford number I copied down from somewhere. So many cars used them they should be available. Might check online.

There are three possible resistor wires used in FoMoCo vehicles in the 1970's.
COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded PINK / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
D1AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-84-Y).

60" long / Color coded RED with GREEN stripes / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-213).

49" long / Color coded RED / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire.

[cas3]

thanks Jerry! i'll do some searching. that would complete the package

[JSeery]

From what I'm seeing so far salvage might be the best source.