F-1 steering with 40 ford steering wheel

[qmdv]

Am building a 32 roadster and am using an F-1 box. I have a real nice 40 ford wheel that I would like to use. The F-1 steering shaft is splined but the 40 ford wheel goes on a tapered shaft with key. What is the recommended procedure. The F-1 shaft needs to be shortened anyway so why not weld on the top of an earlier shaft.

tim

[JSeery]

Yep, splice in a tapered upper shaft. The only issue is good welds. In addition to the obious reason you need to keep the center hole clean and smooth for the horn wire and/or the light control selector tube and it needs to be stright.

[qmdv]

The inside diameter of the shafts are not the same. Was thinking of using a piece of tubing and machining different OD's to match ID's of steering shafts for alignment.

Tim

[Andy]

I did an F100 shaft conversion. I first tried to butt weld the shaft. I got some weld inside the tube and the horn shaft would not go thru. I then made a sleeve that pressed on and I was able to carfully position the new part and weld it up. The butt weld was dicey as you don't know the penatration. I could see the sleeve fillet welds.
Be carefull with the keyway position. Make sure you know when the box is exactly centered.
The keyway in the worm would need to be straight up or down. Check it.

[NealinCA]

The F1 shaft can be converted to taper and key without cutting and welding.

These shafts are swedged with a heavier wall thickness at the top end, so best to re-machine the top and then shorten from the bottom and press the worm back on. I do these all the time.



The keyway will need to be oriented down (6 oclock position) for your 40 ford steering wheel. This will be 180* out from the keyway for the worm.

Neal

[qmdv]

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Originally Posted by NealinCA

The keyway will need to be oriented down (6 oclock position) for your 40 ford steering wheel. This will be 180* out from the keyway for the worm.

Neal

Well I made a sleeve to go inside the two different steering shafts and center drilled it for horn wire. I will make a good but weld. If I use a banjo style wheel, does the key way need to also be in the 6 oclock position. I am assuming so.

Tim

[19Fordy]

Neal, You definitely have come up with a great solution. Well done.

[JSeery]

Neal, I like that approach if you have the equipment for it.

[qmdv]

On 40 wheel it does not look as if it matters whether the key is at 12 or 6 oclock. On a banjo wheel you want one set of spokes going strait down so it matters. If I had a banjo wheel I could look.

Tim

[NealinCA]

Originally Posted by qmdv

On 40 wheel it does not look as if it matters whether the key is at 12 or 6 oclock. On a banjo wheel you want one set of spokes going strait down so it matters. If I had a banjo wheel I could look.

Tim

The horn button only goes in one way on a 40-48 wheel, so it does matter.

[qmdv]

Originally Posted by NealinCA

The horn button only goes in one way on a 40-48 wheel, so it does matter.

So is the consensus key down?

Tim

[NealinCA]

Originally Posted by qmdv

So is the consensus key down?

Tim

Yes, for 35 and later steering wheels.

[prpmmp]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t.../#post-7128615 To really appreciate Neals work read this thread on building a Hot Rod!! Pete (scroll to the top)

[28fordroadster]

Originally Posted by NealinCA

The F1 shaft can be converted to taper and key without cutting and welding.

These shafts are swedged with a heavier wall thickness at the top end, so best to re-machine the top and then shorten from the bottom and press the worm back on. I do these all the time.



The keyway will need to be oriented down (6 oclock position) for your 40 ford steering wheel. This will be 180* out from the keyway for the worm.

Neal

What is the thread dye size and tip? Is the angle 7 degrees?
Thanks for posting this info and pictures!

[deuce lover]

5/8 x18