Sheet metal patch panel questions

[Conaway2]

I will be starting body work on a ‘29 sport coupe in the next few months, and plan to do the body work myself. I’ve had experience with installing patch panels on my last restoration, but rust is more extensive on this project.
Besides needing new rear quarter and wheel well panels, this sport coupe body is rusted through in several spots on the outer body curve just above the rear fenders and at least one rear subrail will need to be replaced.

I have not been able to find patch panels for the outer body above the rear fenders, or a partial rear subrail - does any vendor supply these ?

Assuming I may have to fabricate these parts, are there good sources of sheet metal suitable for these parts ?

I have an Eastwood stitch welder I bought 30 years ago - I notice Eastwood no longer sells these. Is there a better way to weld sheet metal these days ?

I also see that SEM sells a urethane 3-part adhesive for sheet metal panels - is this a good substitute for welding metal patch panels ?

Thanks in advance -
Jim

[wrndln]

Jim,
A MIG with gas is what I use to weld in mostly homemade patch panels. I have constructed patches for the rear part of the subrails and the rear under fender body panels with the ribs made by me. I have also patched the cowl panels. When I was done with these patches, very little body filler (Evercoat Rage Gold) was needed. I have lots of pictures of the patching work I did. If you want to see some of the pictures, sent me a PM with your email address.
Rusty Nelson

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Too many questions to answer at one place so I am going answer in Red

I will be starting body work on a ‘29 sport coupe in the next few months, and plan to do the body work myself. I’ve had experience with installing patch panels on my last restoration, but rust is more extensive on this project.
Besides needing new rear quarter and wheel well panels, this sport coupe body is rusted through in several spots on the outer body curve just above the rear fenders and at least one rear subrail will need to be replaced.

I have not been able to find patch panels for the outer body above the rear fenders, or a partial rear subrail - does any vendor supply these ?
No one commercially manufactures these panels between the inner fenderwell and the rear quarter panel. You will need to form these either on a Pullmax or on a Tipping wheel, and you will need a shrinker at minimum. When we only need a small section to repair a sill, we just fabricate it on a brake. I am pretty sure that all you can purchase is a half-section for the sills however these only come in pairs (-right & left).

Assuming I may have to fabricate these parts, are there good sources of sheet metal suitable for these parts ?
What you are looking for is 19 gauge AK (or deep draw) cold-rolled steel. It is very hard to source. I get mine from Central Wire & Steel however I am pretty sure you will need to order multiple sheets.

I have an Eastwood stitch welder I bought 30 years ago - I notice Eastwood no longer sells these. Is there a better way to weld sheet metal these days ?
I am not familiar with the stitch welder but the preferred method these days is to fuse-weld with an oxy/acetylene torch, or followed by a TIG welder, followed by a MIG welder, or last & least by a stick welder.


I also see that SEM sells a urethane 3-part adhesive for sheet metal panels - is this a good substitute for welding metal patch panels ?
From my limited experience with this, Lord Fusor brand is the preferred brand in the collision industry however there is a huge learning curve to making a great structural bond. I attended a school on this and learned very quickly that it was not for us. Additionally, you will need to fabricate some specialty clamping fixtures for use during the bonding process. Based on what I know about this, I would probably recommend you steer clear of this unless you can find a mentor who is equipped to do so with the proper gun and fixturing.

[KenBolton]

I use a wire feed welder on mine. You should be able to fall partial sud rails but, as mentioned they come as pairs. My guess is that after you dig into the body a bit more if you need one you may need both.

[stevemclark]

Here is a sample of what you can buy from venders, Bert's Model A store. .1928 partial car body..https://modelastore.com/sheet-metal/car-sheet-metal . I get metal from this metal shop to make parts if I have to.https://www.metalsdepot.com/

[john charlton]

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Brookville make complete quarter panels . They no doubt go through quality control and ones that are below tolerances are called "blems" . The fender wells are sold but not much call for a part of the quarter panel above . I had this problem with a 30/31 roadster body where the top back/sides had been cut out to fit a large tuck and roll seat . A good friend called by at Brookville and bought the quarter tops both sides at a very nominal price . The Brookville panels mated perfectly with my body and with my trusty MIG and a skim of the dreaded "bondo" job done . This was 20 years ago so maybe with Covid no visitors allowed but certainly worth a call .

John in sunny Suffolk County England .

[Oldbluoval]

I lost a source to get brookville blems but it would be worth a try
Otherwise I think following Brent and getting a Metalshaper to fabricate is about the only hope. Used to see quarter panels etc at fleas and particularly Hershey (that sorta thing is why I went!).
But last time (3 years ago) it was very sparse if at all.

[john charlton]

My source was Steve Ryan sadly recently passed . He would call by at Brookville occasionally during his work schedule I just wondered if your source was the same . Maybe small world .

John in same place .

[Oldbluoval]

It was not. Bill Johnson with BJ and then Vanessa. You might check with her

[Conaway2]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions ! I’ll be busy following up on a number of points. One message I hear is very clear - upgrade my welding rig….I’ve used stick welding so far on my restorations, but sounds like mig welding is a better way to go.

Jim

[Oldbluoval]

TIG is the way to go imho but the learning curve and investment is almost prohibitive for a one and done project. I’ve never had any luck with stick welding and sheet metal.
I learned on a small flame OA set up. A buddy uses a Dillon OA torch (not current name I don’t think) and does beautiful work,

Henrob is name also!

[rotorwrench]

Brookville only makes the roadster panels and they are a good bit different the the sport coup in the area above the rear wheel. With the lower belt line on the open car, the curve is different for the rear deck. Those Brookville quarters are getting expensive and would likely be that way even if they had blems. I'd find an old coupe body and take it apart for the panels then save or sell off the other usable panels. I would only replace the metal that is either too thin to repair or gone. As long as it still has enough thickness left it can be repaired.

I've formed body lines with out a Pullmax but it takes a lot longer to do it by hand and making special form blocks but it can be done. One fellow recently posted about forming a body line with an arbor press and some home made dies. I use the 1008 AKDQ for steel forming. I just use an aircraft torch with oxy acetylene gas to weld. The small tip torches are still available. TIG would also work well using soft wire filler like RG45. The MIG wire is too hard for easy hammering in my book but a lot of folks use it.