Nu Rex timing advance system

[Skeezixx]

I have my engine apart for painting and now would be a good time to install this part which I acquired in a box of parts but I can't find any reviews on it. Nor did it come with any instructions.

Has anyone tried it? Is it worth using considering the gyrations I'd have to go through later if I don't like it.

Snyder's part No. A-12176X

[Mike V. Florida]

The instructions from Snyders is not the same as the part you show?

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/up...12176-5934.pdf

[christian]

I have installed this in my fordor and am very happy with it. It truly is fool proof and as long as your timing is set correctly and the gyro can spin freely you will have no issues.

Just one thing though, when you drop in the new upper shaft, make sure it clears the hole in the head gasket, you don't want any rubbing or binding.

[msmaron]

i used it for years and LOVED it...Setting it up is very important to get it to work really great.. You will love it. I now use a B Distrib which has it built in and just love that also.

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

The instructions from Snyders is not the same as the part you show?

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/up...12176-5934.pdf

Although the part number matches the Snyder's part number I think those instructions are for a different kind of gadget.

[steve s]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have been using the Nu-Rex version for several years, and it works great. I've set mine up so TDC timing is with the spark advance 3 clicks down and with a little clamp on the grooved plate to prevent over advancing while allowing a bit of additional retard when pulling a hill, etc.

My only regret is the hassle if you ever need to remove the distributor, when the mechanism drops down into the valve chamber, the cover of which needs to be removed to reassemble. My oil filter increases the hassle. If I had to do it again, I would get an advance unit in the distributor.

Steve

[Skeezixx]

I can deduce that it replaces the lower distributor shaft (I presume with the "gyroscope" in the up position. But whats with that spring part? Where does it go and what does it do?

[msmaron]

Does this help you out?

[Skeezixx]

I received a copy of the instructions from Nu Rex and Snyder's The spring replaces the original oil pump spring.

And thanks Mark, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks guys.

[christian]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

I can deduce that it replaces the lower distributor shaft (I presume with the "gyroscope" in the up position. But whats with that spring part? Where does it go and what does it do?

same lower, just re worked upper

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by msmaron

... I now use a B Carb which has it built in and just love that also.

How does that work?

[christian]

B dist ?

[Skeezixx]

Ok. I tried to install the part today but the shaft doesn't fit through the hole in my copper head gasket by maybe 1/32".

Looking for suggestions from our panel of experts.

[christian]

drift punch ? I mean, all you need to do is ream it out.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

Ok. I tried to install the part today but the shaft doesn't fit through the hole in my copper head gasket by maybe 1/32".

Looking for suggestions from our panel of experts.

Did the other shaft fit through?? and i agree, just use a drift punch...this should install very easy..Setting the timing of the car is crucial to this working perfectly.

[John LaVoy]

We reviewed it awhile back, using a distributor test machine and found the results very good. Have not run it in an engine as of yet but the test machine showed smooth advance all the way up and down.

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

Ok. I tried to install the part today but the shaft doesn't fit through the hole in my copper head gasket by maybe 1/32".

Looking for suggestions from our panel of experts.

As you have found, the fit may be tight as it passes through the head gasket. Even if it appears to pass through, it can rub on the gasket and change the advance curve. Open the hole with a drift punch as suggested. A tight distributor bushing to shaft fit can also cause problems with the function.
How do I know this to be true? I just do! (Been there...it happened.)
Good Day!

[msmaron]

I highly suggest you follow these instructions to the MINUTE...The NuRex device was formed from this unit. Phillips and if you set your nu rex to these exact specs you will be very very pleased

Good luck...mark

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/phillipsspark.htm

[CarlG]

Apparently the NuRex unit does not come with the "Spark Lever Lock" as shown on the Phillips description on Vince's website as Mark shows above. At least my unit didn't include it. Would be neat if it did.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Apparently the NuRex unit does not come with the "Spark Lever Lock" as shown on the Phillips description on Vince's website as Mark shows above. At least my unit didn't include it. Would be neat if it did.

Correct it does not, i just used a black cable tie and it took care of it.

[Skeezixx]

Well, it's in there! The shaft is clear of the head gasket, no rubbing. Now, where do I keep my spark lever?

Thanks guys.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

Well, it's in there! The shaft is clear of the head gasket, no rubbing. Now, where do I keep my spark lever?

Thanks guys.

I suggest you time it per instructions except with the spark lever advanced three clicks from max retard. This comes in very handy if you found yourself suddenly spark knocking and lugging a bit up a hill and you really don't want to downshift because you're going too fast. In other words, you can play the role of a human vacuum brake on the centrifugal advance.

Of course, if you forget and leave it retarded, the motor will overheat. Because accidentally over advancing can do real damage quickly, I have a little clamp to block that from happening:



Steve

[clocey]

I bought one of these Nu-Rex kits and tried to install it today. I got stuck trying to remove the long shaft from the distributor. Can someone tell me the correct way to remove the original long shaft from my distributor to allow me to use the new shaft included in my kit?
Curt

[CarlG]

You need to get the short upper shaft in the distributor.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by clocey

I bought one of these Nu-Rex kits and tried to install it today. I got stuck trying to remove the long shaft from the distributor. Can someone tell me the correct way to remove the original long shaft from my distributor to allow me to use the new shaft included in my kit?
Curt

Drive the little pin out of the shaft collar at the bottom of the distributor and slide collar off.

Slide the long shaft out of the distributor. Clean it up before sliding it out so you don't mess up the distributor bushings.

Slide a new short shaft in distributor. Replace collar and drive in new roll pin.

Transfer the cam over to the new short shaft.

Carry on.

[Skeezixx]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Here's a follow up:

I have been using the Nu Rex for 400 miles now. It does just what it claims to. It advances smoothly and actually, I don't even know it's in there except I no longer have to fiddle with my spark lever.

However, one of our fellow members claims that it's the reason I complain of getting only 9.4 miles per gallon. I can't imagine why this would make a difference, the car doesn't run rich.

The engine was a fresh rebuild and I never had a chance to run it without the Nu Rex. Has anyone else noticed an adverse change in fuel mileage using it?

[msmaron]

Mine only continued to CLIMB for the better!

[clocey]

Carl
I have the short shaft that came with the kit

Jim
Thanks Jim, that is the information I was looking for.

Curt

[clocey]

I took the distributor out and drove out the pin. The collar slid right off and I was able to get the long shaft out of the distributor without any issues. I know what most are going to say, but is it possible I have a one-piece long shaft? I do not see any lines/seams to break this in two.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by clocey

Carl
I have the short shaft that came with the kit

The shaft that comes with the kit is indeed the short shaft, but what you need is the "upper distributor shaft" so aptly described in Jim's post (#25). There was/is an aftermarket shaft that is one piece that incorporates both the distributor shaft and the short shaft directly below the distributor, and that's what you have. What you need is an original style short distributor shaft. The one shown below is drilled for ease of oiling, but you can also get one that is not drilled. (Picture from Snyder's catalog, Part # A-12178-SD)

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

Here's a follow up:



However, one of our fellow members claims that it's the reason I complain of getting only 9.4 miles per gallon. I can't imagine why this would make a difference, the car doesn't run rich.

Then where is the gas going? We have read here of A's getting 20MPG, I think that the poll that was up a while ago had an average of 16-18 mpg.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I wonder what the Nu Rex timing does for the timing when using the high compression head, which takes less spark advance. Is the spark lever still connected, so you could retard the spark?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I wonder what the Nu Rex timing does for the timing when using the high compression head, which takes less spark advance. Is the spark lever still connected, so you could retard the spark?

There have been a couple of approaches to this. Steve S in post #22 above has a neat suggestion, which I have done. I'll see how that works when we go on tour this next week.

One of the guys in our club just timed his with the spark lever all the way down, then he can retard it at will.

Another guy just timed it retarded 2 or 3 degrees from the get-go, thereby reducing the amount of the automatic advance.

There's a couple more variations of these, but we will see what works best during this tour (about 1,600 miles in a week)

[donh]

I have had mine for a number of years and probably 5000 miles. There was only one time when I thought I had a problem. I had blown a head gasket on the road. I replaced the gasket with no problem, but forgot to check the opening for the distributor shaft. The gasket interfered with the rotation of the shaft and had the timing all messed up!! Once I discovered the problem, it was an easy fix to correct the opening and then everything was back to normal

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I wonder what the Nu Rex timing does for the timing when using the high compression head, which takes less spark advance. Is the spark lever still connected, so you could retard the spark?

I was told that you cannot use the Nu Rex unit with a high compression head as the H/C head is taller and the distributor mounts higher thus affecting the shaft length.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

I was told that you cannot use the Nu Rex unit with a high compression head as the H/C head is taller and the distributor mounts higher thus affecting the shaft length.

I guess you would need to define "H/C". I am using it with a Snyder 5.5 head and it works just fine.

I would also guess that if there's a problem with the Nu Rex unit, there would be the same problem with any distributor set up.

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I guess you would need to define "H/C". I am using it with a Snyder 5.5 head and it works just fine.

I would also guess that if there's a problem with the Nu Rex unit, there would be the same problem with any distributor set up.

Well that makes sense. The Nu Rex shaft length and the stock shaft length would be the same. Therefore, if the head is too tall for the Nu Rex it would also be too tall for a stock shaft.

[Synchro909]

I Know, I know, this is an old thread. I found it when searching for info on the NuRex automatic timing mechanism. I have been working on a client's car for the past couple of days doing all sorts of things to get it going properly. A BIG part of the problem is that the auto advance mechanism actually RETARDS the ignition as the revs increase. Pretty soon, the engine reaches a limit on what it will do.
Has anybody heard of these jiggers working backwards like this one?? Is it a manufacturing problem - bad batch?
I note that the design of the device prevents it being installed up side down so that is not the problem.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Synchro,
Can you MODIFY it, to FLIP the GYRO goody over??
Bill W.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Synchro,
Can you MODIFY it, to FLIP the GYRO goody over??
Bill W.

Bill, That is not an easy thing to do. We looked at that and decided it wasn't an option. The "Gyro Goody" as you call it is spring loaded and there is no provision for fixing the spring on the opposite side. Otherwise, it does seem to be symmetrical.

[emf]

Do they have a model that is designed to run on the bottom of the world?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sure sounds like you got a unit made for clockwise rotation.

[mrtexas]

I used to have an original timing advancer. "Make your A run like a v8!" It was identical to the nurex.

[jfreddie]

One thing to be aware of is the advancer gives you 30 deg of advance, which is great for running a std cyl head. If you put a higher ratio head on you may get pinging at 30 deg.
I use a 5.5 head and set timing so max is 26, seems to do fine. I did that by pulling spark lever down one click, set timing normally, put spark lever up and zip tie it there.
Cheers

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Sure sounds like you got a unit made for clockwise rotation.

I wondered about that possibility. Today, I put an original B distributor on it and it runs fine now. The advance actually works in the correct way.
I have been in touch with NuRex who have been very helpful and intrigued by the situation. I will be sending him the dodgey one tomorrow so he can satisfy his curiosity.
emf:
You are not the only one to suggest that. A friend in Arizona said the same and likened it to how our toilets work the opposite way. I said that our work just the same - when we press the button, the room doesn't fill with cr@p!! He meant the way the water swirls in the opposite direction only our dunnies don't swirl anyway.