Front end problems

[ETAModel]

On my friend's 30 Fordor, we just put new Coker tires all around. Took her to the shop for some maintenance, my friend following. Upon arrival he asked me how it drove...I said the same as usual. He said the front tires would track straight a while, then shimmy like all get out, then go back to tracking straight, then repeat. I topped out at 43 mph in town driving.
I've noticed since he got it the car has a pretty bad shimmy in the front end at about 15-20 mph, whether accelerating or decelerating, but once past that speed it tracks pretty good. Oh course I have nothing to compare it to. It has less than 1/4 revolution of play in the steering wheel. Dad's 58 Ford had over 1/2 rev of slack. I thought maybe this is the dreaded "dead wobble" I've read on here about.

I tugged on the top of the tires, there's about 1/2" movement. I plan on packing/inspecting the front bearings/hubs next, and giving it a good lube job.

What do you think is going on? King pins, tie rods, dead wobble, all of the above????

Thanks

[Synchro909]

What you describe is what we call the "Death Wobble". To get rid of it, check and repair where neccessary, everything from the steering box including the steering box itself and the bolts holding it to the chassis, tightness of the pitman arm on ther sector shaft, all of the ball joints (don't forget the one under the bell housing), wheel bearings, king pins, shackles, A frame bolts at the axle (Spring perches), wheel alignment right through to wheel balance.
It is very unlikely that you will fix the problem by doing just one of those things. It is usually a little here and a little there that causes the wobble.
Good luck.
PS When it is happening, it can usually be brought under control by yanking left or right on the steering wheel. Control might only last a short time and is NOT a fix.

[Patrick L.]

Like Synchro says, there is something loose somewhere between the wheel bearings and the the steering box adjustment. Everything needs to be checked and fixed. However, there is definitely a problem with your steering box, you have way too much play. So does your father's 58. Your steering wheel play should be about 1-1.5" and no more. The 2 tooth box has 4 adjustments which need to be made in the correct order. With as much play as you have these adjustments will probably have to made more than once.

[rotorwrench]

Movement on top can be spindle component looseness or wheel bearing component looseness. There should be no noticeable play so 1/2" is way too much.

[Curtis in MA]

First remove the drag link from the pitman arm. Try to move the pitman arm forward and back. If the pitman is lose on the sector shaft tighten the castle nut.
Then adjust the steering box so you only have 1" of play in the steering wheel.
Jack up the left side of the car and try to move the wheel left and right. If it moves check the tie rod or steering arms.
Re-connect the pitman arm and try moving the steering wheel.


Having the top of your wheel move could be lose bearings.

[ETAModel]

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Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Like Synchro says, there is something loose somewhere between the wheel bearings and the the steering box adjustment. Everything needs to be checked and fixed. However, there is definitely a problem with your steering box, you have way too much play. So does your father's 58. Your steering wheel play should be about 1-1.5" and no more. The 2 tooth box has 4 adjustments which need to be made in the correct order. With as much play as you have these adjustments will probably have to made more than once.

Dad's '58 has been parked for about 30 years...after we came back from hunting and the tie rod fell off on a dirt road at 30 mph and we went into a dirt bank. Dad had me dig it out and find some barb wire and he crawled under it and wired it back on...then drove 20 miles home at 60 mph !!! I never prayed so hard in my life!!

I'll start at the wheel bearings, tighten them and work my way up. Is the steering gearbox adjustments in Les Andrews' book? I have Vol. 1.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

[Patrick L.]

I believe the adjustment is in that book, but, I suggest the service bulletins.
A little play here and a little play there all add up. A few little 'plays' can add up to the 'wobble'.

[Wick]

I'll add to this,check the front spring also. If the arch is gone and it's flat now then replace it. Shackles hitting the axle?
The spring affects how the radius ball rides in it's socket. A flat spring transfers more weight to the front of the car.
The front spring is probably the most over looked item on model A's.

[1931 flamingo]

1/2" is an awful lot. King pins, wheel brgs, etc or a combination of all. All fixable.
Paul in CT

[Tom Wesenberg]

My temporary front end has worn out spindle bushings, so the tops of the tires can move in and out at least an inch, yet I've never had the death wobble.
First thing I'd check is the toe-in, but also make sure the pitman arm is tight to the shaft, and make sure the steering box is tight to the frame.

[1930deluxe]

I found with mine the spring was broke in the drag link from the pitman arm. Put new kit in both ends and shimmy is gone.

[WHN]

My comment is always the same with front end shimmy.

Jack up the front of car so the front end is hanging loose. Now you can check everything for looseness. Everything. Chances are it is just not one bad part but a combination of many worn parts. As mentioned earlier, don’t overlook your front spring and shocks.

Front end, brakes, and tires. Your car can look and run good, but if doesn’t drive safely. Everything else does not matter.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

The way to check king pin bushings, is to put your hand on the backing plate and the brake drum at the top then move the wheel in and out. If just just the brake drum moves, than your wheel bearings are loose. If the backing plate moves, then your king pin bushings are worn out.