Zenith 2 carb rebuild question

[sphooch]

Can any one explain to me how the gas adj. needle is removed from the gas adj. housing? Brattons pn# 1400- housing and pn#13980-needle . thanks THE HOOCH

[Joe K]

The two parts are held together simply by friction. This is by design and serves to hold your GAV in whatever position you leave it.

Look close - at the small end of 1400 is a metal spring-clip - this is provided simply for the three fingers to give "pressure" against the needle.

The spring clip can be removed (careful lest you break off a brass finger in the process) and you'll find things are considerably looser.

Some run this way - the fingers alone for them provide "just enough" tension to prevent your GAV from moving while driving.

Others, such as myself, replace the spring-clip after "de-tensioning" it by pushing it down on a tapered awl or ice pick. Often just the act of removal is enough to de-tension all by itself.

I have heard some replace the metal spring-clip with a small O-ring. Viton would be best.

Or - you can end up where I did with one broken finger and the spring clip replaced - and continue driving. Two fingers out of three CAN do the trick.

Aftermarket parts sources are part of the problem. Irregularities in dimension of parts, or differences in "spring brass temper" compared to original is where the problem begins. But even original parts after 80 years may have seen their best day passed.

Admittedly this was not the Ford best plan for GAV adjustment. The Model B carburetor instead has a washer held by a spring which the screwing action of adjustment give fairly uniform tension to hold the GAV in place.

Joe K

[GRutter]

Just unscrew it. Once fully unthreaded, pull. It will come out

[johnbuckley]

Originally Posted by GRutter

Just unscrew it. Once fully unthreaded, pull. It will come out

and it may be stiff so once you're sure it's unscrewed if fallien out give it a pull with a pair of pliers

[sphooch]

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Originally Posted by Joe K

The two parts are held together simply by friction. This is by design and serves to hold your GAV in whatever position you leave it.

Look close - at the small end of 1400 is a metal spring-clip - this is provided simply for the three fingers to give "pressure" against the needle.

The spring clip can be removed (careful lest you break off a brass finger in the process) and you'll find things are considerably looser.

Some run this way - the fingers alone for them provide "just enough" tension to prevent your GAV from moving while driving.

Others, such as myself, replace the spring-clip after "de-tensioning" it by pushing it down on a tapered awl or ice pick. Often just the act of removal is enough to de-tension all by itself.

I have heard some replace the metal spring-clip with a small O-ring. Viton would be best.

Or - you can end up where I did with one broken finger and the spring clip replaced - and continue driving. Two fingers out of three CAN do the trick.

Aftermarket parts sources are part of the problem. Irregularities in dimension of parts, or differences in "spring brass temper" compared to original is where the problem begins. But even original parts after 80 years may have seen their best day passed.

Admittedly this was not the Ford best plan for GAV adjustment. The Model B carburetor instead has a washer held by a spring which the screwing action of adjustment give fairly uniform tension to hold the GAV in place.

Joe K

thank you for the fine explanation the HOOCH