bleeding brakes

[hope]

1940 tudor.


Here i am again, still chasing brake trouble. Its getting too much for this old man........
Bled the rear brakes o.k. with no bubbles, so on to the right front and the "bleeding screw is loose" upon just cracking open, so its letting air in the clear bleeding tube to the bottle.


Front cylinders are NEW (most likely Foreign made).


Question is: where can i get good ones?


Hope


P.S. Have to leave it alone for a while, because of so much frustration.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by hope

1940 tudor.


Here i am again, still chasing brake trouble. Its getting too much for this old man........
Bled the rear brakes o.k. with no bubbles, so on to the right front and the "bleeding screw is loose" upon just cracking open, so its letting air in the clear bleeding tube to the bottle.


Front cylinders are NEW (most likely Foreign made).


Question is: where can i get good ones?


Hope


P.S. Have to leave it alone for a while, because of so much frustration.

Go to your local NAPA store and have them order you new WAGNOR brand wheel cylinders last ones I got were USA made and excellent quality.

[Tim Ayers]

I noticed Kantner Auto Parts in Booton, NJ is listing US made Wagner brake cylinders for Fords as well.

[Fairview]

If the problem is loose bleeders, try speed bleeders. They have a one way check valve for easy bleeding, and a sealer on the threads. Used a pair in the front wheel cylinders today and worked well. The pair were about $13 at Advance Auto.

[hope]

Thanks for the reply, but i have speed bleeders and they are also loose.

[Mart]

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Bleed screws are always loose. There should be no point in the bleeding process where you are sucking on the cylinder.

You should always close the bleeder before letting the pedal come up again.

Use a pressure bleed system or a vacuum setup.

You can get grease that is compatible with brake rubbers. You can use that to help a bleed screw not leak if using a vacuum device.

If you can get a helper, the old fashioned 2 person method is as good as any, once partially filled.

One question. Could the bleed screws be loose because they are 3/8 fine and the holes are 10mm x 1mm? Never know with some modern repro stuff.

Mart.

[fortyfords]

I always remove the bleeder and wrap the one I'm bleeding with Teflon tape; don't screw it all the way in until you are done bleeding. I always hold the bleed tube so it goes up and these two things really work good when you are using vacuum to bleed. Then I go to the next bleeder and do the same thing over again.

[Tinker]

Anyone use the "reverse" brake bleeders?
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...hoCKE0QAvD_BwE


I do it regular way with someone pumping the brakes. Just curious

[Talkwrench]

Yeah tried one of those pumps... But the simplest thing Ive ever done was put speed bleeders in. If its a single circuit system dont push the pedal all the way to the floor! I found just slow steady pumps and even just holding the pedal down for a period of time, if its a new bleed.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by hope

1940 tudor.

Front cylinders are NEW (most likely Foreign made).

Question is: where can i get good ones?

Hope
P.S. Have to leave it alone for a while, because of so much frustration.

Just a thought, if foreign made it may be possible that these are made with metric threads (10mm x 1) pitch.
They are just slightly bigger than the 3/8" dia. standard ones that are used.
The 3/8 x 24 threads easily into the 10mm x 1 nut but is loose.

[hope]

I doubt this to be the case, but in any case my next attempt will be to isolate the front from the back lines alternatively to see if the master cylinder will activate just the front or the back.

[1948F-1Pickup]

I'm thinking..... just like Mart says, pressure bleed it.
Couldn't be too hard to tap a small hose nipple into the
master cylinder cap and put about 10 psi of air to it.
(Just don't let the master cylinder run dry) Replace the
fitting with a plug when you're done.

[hope]

Yes, thank you.

[cas3]

no fancy gizmos, and no help. i just start a the bleeder that farthest from the mc, study your plumbing, and jamb a stick against the seat or steering wheel if the body is intact, or hold the pedal down with a bungi cord if you are dealing with a bare chassis. its really not a big deal, been done for nearly a century without any extras

[hope]

That's the way i've always done it, but for some reason its not working for me this time.
I probably have defective equipment, so i'm leaning towards starting from scratch, when i get my brain straighten out, at 83 my decisions are slow in coming.

[38bill]

FYI: I struggled many times trying to get a hard brake pedal. Finally purchased a MityVac vacuum bleeder. It never worked very well and always sucked air past the bleeder screw so you couldn't tell what was going on. I gave up on it this last time after many hours trying to get a good bleed. I then purchased a pressure bleeder by Motive. I had a little trouble getting it to seal on the MC but once it fit tight it worked incredibly well. Pumped it up and was able to bleed all 4 cylinders on the one pressurization. Super fast and its very easy to tell when the air is purged since there are no bubbles except those in the brake line. You need the pump and an adaptor for what ever MC you have. You can even build your own as seen on utube

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401314051503

PS: I figured I'd spent the money and I would end up saving it by bleeding the brakes more often thus preventing damage to the brake system.

[john in illinois]

I use a pressure bleeder. Pump to 10psi. Walk around to each wheel with clear bleeder hose and open until no bubbles. I usually do it twice. You never need to worry about getting air or running out of fluid in the master cylinder.

I use a C clamp to hold adapter. Other adapters available.
I see Bill has same idea.

John

[hope]

YEP..........


Seem to me that's the way to go, will try to go that route when i get myself re organized.

Right now i've got some priority "honey do this" to contend with.


Hope.

[hope]

Bill&John thanks for the info.