The Ford Barn

Plumpcars · 11-29-2011, 02:37 AM

In the process of sorting out the bodywork on my sedan and have hit a small problem on the drivers door. If you look at the car side on there are now good door gaps on each door which I achieved by adjusting at the cowl/shims.
Although the drivers door now lines up well when viewed side on it has a slight bind as you close the door. Without latches or dovetails it binds about 1/2" out. It can be closed with slight pressure but I have spotted that the door frame is just touching the body at the top forward corner of the window frame a little before final closing. The touch is caused by the door being too far in at the top rather than by the gap around the door, so as if the upper hinge was slightly too far inwards. Not sure if I have made myself clear? My hinge screws are frozen on this door but I assume there is no adjustment there anyway? Does side to side shimming of the body affect the way the doors 'angle inwards' in the way that shimming each side affects the door gap?
Thank you.

B_man_Al · 11-29-2011, 07:15 AM

I had the same problem with my fordor. I think Henry screwed up when he designed the front door. I tried bending the hinges to get the gaps right but if the gap at the top was right, (mine has virtually no gap at the top front where its adjacent to window pillar), then it was too big at the bottom, or the belts did not line up at the door latch. Mine too has a slight interference on the inside frame of the door at the top. Over time you can see where the paint has rubbed off due to vibration. I put a clear, small diameter ( 3/8 or so ) plastic kitchen cabinet door bumper on the door frame to eliminate the rubbing.

Al

Mart · 11-29-2011, 07:59 AM

Carefully bend the door.
Put a piece of wood in where it is touching and carefully close the door against it, it should push out the offending part.

Use your noggin, (not literally) and be careful, you should be able to persuede the door into a pleasing fit.

Mart.

Dak Rat · 11-29-2011, 08:54 AM

When I did my '32 2-door I used the drivers door that came with the car and a passenger door off another parts car I had. Neither door fit the opening in the area above the top hinge. No matter what we did they would not adjust to the hole. After much effort It was obvious that it never had fit worth a darn. I ground metal away from the door edge in that area and welded up the seam until I optained a nice even gap. After finish work the doors looked and fit perfectly and no paint flies when you shut the doors. Most everyone I talked to said they had to do the some thing to one degree or another. Just the way it is.

Krylon32 · 11-29-2011, 09:20 AM

I'm finishing my 5th 2 door and it must have been a design flaw as they have all had a rubbing problem in this area, some were adjusted with a little tweaking but on a couple metal had to be removed and rewelded to get a nice fit.

DavidG · 11-29-2011, 10:03 AM

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This is a common problem on '32 Tudor and Fordor sedans and standard (5-w) and sport coupes. The problem is not with the door, but rather on the 'A' pillar. There is a weld joint between the roof panel and cowl panel above the upper hinge and in the process of metal finishing (soldering) the welded joint, too much solder was left in place and that narrowed the intended gap between the pillar and front edge of the door at that point.

There are two solutions, namely to file or ground off some of the excess solder on the pillar or to do as Dak Rat suggests and shave off some of the forward edge of the door and refinish as required.

DavidG · 11-29-2011, 10:05 AM

I should have added that attempting to bend the door to create the desired gap could lead to problems on the back edge of the door such as changing the relationship between the male and female dovetails and/or creating an uneven gap from top to bottom at the back edge of the door.

Plumpcars · 11-30-2011, 02:13 AM

Thanks all for your helpful replies. The problem is in that top corner above the upper hinge but is too tight a gap between the door and body as if you were looking from above rather than a tight gap if you were looking from the side.
Mart we tried the wood trick which is commonplace on modern cars. The 32 didn't want to move so it must be a lot stronger in that window frame than doors made these days!
Now I know that there was a problem from the factory I can work with it. I assumed that my car had a problem of its' own.

11-29-2011, 02:37 AM	#1
Plumpcars Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: UK Posts: 39	1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. In the process of sorting out the bodywork on my sedan and have hit a small problem on the drivers door. If you look at the car side on there are now good door gaps on each door which I achieved by adjusting at the cowl/shims. Although the drivers door now lines up well when viewed side on it has a slight bind as you close the door. Without latches or dovetails it binds about 1/2" out. It can be closed with slight pressure but I have spotted that the door frame is just touching the body at the top forward corner of the window frame a little before final closing. The touch is caused by the door being too far in at the top rather than by the gap around the door, so as if the upper hinge was slightly too far inwards. Not sure if I have made myself clear? My hinge screws are frozen on this door but I assume there is no adjustment there anyway? Does side to side shimming of the body affect the way the doors 'angle inwards' in the way that shimming each side affects the door gap? Thank you.

11-29-2011, 07:15 AM	#2
B_man_Al Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ottawa ON Canada Posts: 301	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. I had the same problem with my fordor. I think Henry screwed up when he designed the front door. I tried bending the hinges to get the gaps right but if the gap at the top was right, (mine has virtually no gap at the top front where its adjacent to window pillar), then it was too big at the bottom, or the belts did not line up at the door latch. Mine too has a slight interference on the inside frame of the door at the top. Over time you can see where the paint has rubbed off due to vibration. I put a clear, small diameter ( 3/8 or so ) plastic kitchen cabinet door bumper on the door frame to eliminate the rubbing. Al

11-29-2011, 07:59 AM	#3
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,752	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. Carefully bend the door. Put a piece of wood in where it is touching and carefully close the door against it, it should push out the offending part. Use your noggin, (not literally) and be careful, you should be able to persuede the door into a pleasing fit. Mart.

11-29-2011, 08:54 AM	#4
Dak Rat Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Minot, ND Posts: 217	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. When I did my '32 2-door I used the drivers door that came with the car and a passenger door off another parts car I had. Neither door fit the opening in the area above the top hinge. No matter what we did they would not adjust to the hole. After much effort It was obvious that it never had fit worth a darn. I ground metal away from the door edge in that area and welded up the seam until I optained a nice even gap. After finish work the doors looked and fit perfectly and no paint flies when you shut the doors. Most everyone I talked to said they had to do the some thing to one degree or another. Just the way it is.

11-29-2011, 09:20 AM	#5
Krylon32 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,484	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. I'm finishing my 5th 2 door and it must have been a design flaw as they have all had a rubbing problem in this area, some were adjusted with a little tweaking but on a couple metal had to be removed and rewelded to get a nice fit.

11-29-2011, 10:03 AM	#6
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) This is a common problem on '32 Tudor and Fordor sedans and standard (5-w) and sport coupes. The problem is not with the door, but rather on the 'A' pillar. There is a weld joint between the roof panel and cowl panel above the upper hinge and in the process of metal finishing (soldering) the welded joint, too much solder was left in place and that narrowed the intended gap between the pillar and front edge of the door at that point. There are two solutions, namely to file or ground off some of the excess solder on the pillar or to do as Dak Rat suggests and shave off some of the forward edge of the door and refinish as required.

11-29-2011, 10:05 AM	#7
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. I should have added that attempting to bend the door to create the desired gap could lead to problems on the back edge of the door such as changing the relationship between the male and female dovetails and/or creating an uneven gap from top to bottom at the back edge of the door.

11-30-2011, 02:13 AM	#8
Plumpcars Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: UK Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Tudor sedan door clearance. Thanks all for your helpful replies. The problem is in that top corner above the upper hinge but is too tight a gap between the door and body as if you were looking from above rather than a tight gap if you were looking from the side. Mart we tried the wood trick which is commonplace on modern cars. The 32 didn't want to move so it must be a lot stronger in that window frame than doors made these days! Now I know that there was a problem from the factory I can work with it. I assumed that my car had a problem of its' own.