272 Y-block oil leak- need help quick- show time

[Tom in TN]

Hey y’all. I have a show in Granville, TN next Saturday and I just had an ugly gremlin rear it’s head by way of an oil leak that is from the pressurized side.

A little background. It’s on my 1955 Fairlane and it’s a 272 y-block with a spin-on oil filter adapter that I installed when I overhauled the engine in 2009. There has never been a leak until a month ago and I noticed a puddle in the drip pan and a pulsating trail of oil as I backed it out of the shop. “Pulsating’ just means that the trail was a blob, then a stream, then a blob and more stream and so on as far as I backed it up. Naturally, back into the shop it went. I got to looking and found a trail down the underside of the oil filter. Just to be sure, I had my wife crank the car, while I watched for the leak. Sure enough, oil started seeping out from around the base of the filter and running down the filter and making the puddle. Ah-HA- got you, you little creep. Says I.

So I took the Motorcraft filter off and if you have never noticed, they have some very huge dimples that are there to hold the filter gasket in place as it is installed...but they also distort the gasket, so I thought that was the problem. I got a Fram filter, and their dimples were very small and do not distort the gasket. I put the Fram filter on in textbook manor and there was no more leak! We even took it on a 120-mile cruise a couple of weeks ago and all was well…until about 2 hours ago.

I cranked the car up to go top off the gas tank, backed it out of the shop…and dang if there wasn’t a new puddle and a stream on the floor coming out of the shop. Well, right back in it went and I had my wife come out and crank it while I eyeballed the filter (I had already found a new trail of oil running down the filter)..and yep, it is doing the same thing as the stinking Motorcraft filter. Oil is seeping out from around the base of the filter.

I need some help figuring this one out, but let me run this by you…
The kit has a double end-threaded fitting that screws into the block and holds the adapter plate on. That fitting has a nut right in the middle of it. What if that fittings ‘nut’ is too thick and is letting the metal center of the filter contact that instead of fully tightening on the gasket, Like maybe when I first install it, the new gasket is touching the adapter plate with enough force to prevent a leak, but after a few hot/cold cycles, the gasket tension is so light that oil starts being able to squirm by? Does that make any sense?

I’m all ears for anyone who has ever run into this…and I have a deadline if I’m gonna make the show…so I not only need help, I need it very fast.

Thank you in advance!

[robib]

Put the cannister filter back on. Then figure out why the adapter/filter is leaking.

[emf]

You may have an inexpensive adapter plate that has warped. If so, get an original Ford plate, they are much heavier and will not warp. I had the same problem. I put a Ford plate on it and problem never returned...


Frank

[chain drive]

that threaded nut that has 2 ends the short end goes in to the engine also the plate might be bent go luck

[paul2748]

When installing the filter kit, you have to be careful in tightening the part that holds it in. Too tight and it bottoms out the tin piece and it may leak. I had a leak problem (twice), went back to the canister and had no more problems.

[50fordcoupeman]

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I once had an adapter plate that had loosened just a smidgen. Couldn't see it but when I tightened it up the leak went away.

[Daves55Sedan]

You should notice that the adaptor plate is shaped such that in the middle of the plate, it is sunken down where the nut is in the middle of the fitting. there is a raised surface of the adapter plate where the filter gasket rests upon, so you should never experience a bottoming out of the metal part of the filter on that nut in the middle of the fitting.
There is a large round gasket between the adaptor plate and engine block. If that gasket is even slightly hanging out of the recess in the engine block, it is sure to leak.
The more recently manufactured adaptor plates from the repro parts suppliers are practically paper thin and easily bent when installing a new filter (which could put you closer to bottoming out the filter on the adapter fitting nut before the filter gasket can make a tight grip against the adaptor plate). If so, you might be able to get a genuine replacement somewhere.
The adaptor plate on my 292 is ancient and very thick metal. I use Motorcraft FL-1A filters and it never leaks.

[KULTULZ]

Use only FOMOCO NOS B7A 6882-A. The adapter plate on the aftermarket kits are of thinner gauge and will warp.

Continuing Quirkiness

Another Y-Block quirk has to do with the oil filter. The engines built later in the production cycle went to a spin-on, but the blocks are all cast and machined the same. Of course, what this means is there’s an adapter used. Unless your customer is planning a concours-type restoration, the spin-on oil filter is obviously the best deal, so you’ll want to use the spin-on oil filter adapter.

At first glance, it looks like a no-brainer, but that’s where some get into trouble. Years of unfortunate and messy experience have taught me to approach the subject with a specific (and proven) procedure. First, there is a flat impregnated paper gasket that seals between the block and the adapter plate.

Never, ever, not even once or a little bit, should you use any kind of sealer or gasket material here. If you do it will almost certainly end up with the gasket pushed out and all the oil on the ground. Put it in dry.

Second, the plate has to be installed in only one way. Look closely and you’ll see where it is stamped “TOP.” This faces outward (I guess you could say that it is also the top), but the TOP script should also be at 12 o’clock or top as well. If not, the filter will drain dry in a very short time every time you shut the engine off. Obviously, you want oil to stay in the filter so you don’t start without oil – it’s hard on an engine.

Finally, the special threaded fitting that holds the plate on and allows the filter to spin on requires a 1-1/4˝ socket and about 50 ft.lbs. of torque. The problem is that a good many of the sockets available are too thick and you won’t get a good grip.

I finally broke down and bought a cheap 12-point socket and ground the outside edge until I could get a good grip on it.

The first time I dealt with this I invented quite a few new four-letter words before I realized what was needed. My advice: fix yourself up with that socket when you tear it down.

SOURCE - https://www.enginebuildermag.com/200...k-ford-tricks/

More Info Here - http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic119490.aspx

And also, there is a billet aluminum plate available.

[Tom in TN]

Thanks to all... I'm searching for a Fomoco plate, but will be removing the one I have to see if it's warped.
There has to be a solution and I will find it. Hoping I have enough time.
btw, I have no idea where my old cannister stuff is, so I can't put it back on.

[JSRTUDOR]

I made sure to put some sealant on the gasket of the adapter and make sure the filter is tight, mine leaked exactly the way yours was, I tried another filter and it still did it until I twisted the filter on to what would normally be a stupid torque on any other car, but did the trick on this car, no more leak.

[Daves55Sedan]

"Never, ever, not even once or a little bit, should you use any kind of sealer or gasket material here. If you do it will almost certainly end up with the gasket pushed out and all the oil on the ground. Put it in dry."
I agree with not using any kind of sealer on the big round gasket between the adaptor plate and engine block recess. But I disagree about putting it in dry. Installation of the plate can be made much easier by dipping a finger in clean axle-grease and smearing it in the engine block recess, then placing the gasket in the recess. The grease will hold the gasket in place while you position the adaptor plate and fitting on. Once the fitting is tightened up, the grease will be squeezed out and it will not leak a drop of oil.
Additionally, prior to using Motorcraft Brand oil filters, I was using a few other brands (Fram, Wix, Purolator), depending upon what was on the shelf at the chain auto parts store. Way back in the early '80's when we rebuilt my 292, a guy started tinkering around with the new filter that I had ready to install and he said that the filter gasket didn't have a good bite on the surface of the adaptor plate.
So I went out and bought several brands to compare and there IS A DIFFERENCE. The motorcraft oil filter gasket sealed the best.

[KULTULZ]

Another Y-Block quirk has to do with the oil filter. The engines built later in the production cycle went to a spin-on, but the blocks are all cast and machined the same. Of course, what this means is there’s an adapter used. Unless your customer is planning a concours-type restoration, the spin-on oil filter is obviously the best deal, so you’ll want to use the spin-on oil filter adapter.

At first glance, it looks like a no-brainer, but that’s where some get into trouble. Years of unfortunate and messy experience have taught me to approach the subject with a specific (and proven) procedure. First, there is a flat impregnated paper gasket that seals between the block and the adapter plate.

Never, ever, not even once or a little bit, should you use any kind of sealer or gasket material here. If you do it will almost certainly end up with the gasket pushed out and all the oil on the ground. Put it in dry.

It is this simple. When you are tightening the adapter, any movement of that gasket may (most likely) cause a future failure. A tack or lubricant will allow the gasket to move while torquing the adapter to the plate. Put it on dry (and use a quality gasket - not CHI-COM).

No 55blacktie, CHI-COM is not a racist term. Relax your loins.

[JSRTUDOR]

I only used a thin skim of sealant to take up any imperfections in the metals, nothing that will clog anything.

[Tom in TN]

I'm pullng the plate off tonight and gonna try refacing the filter gasket seat on my metal lathe...I'll keep y'all posted.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by Tom in TN

gonna try refacing the filter gasket seat on my metal lathe.

I wouldn't do that. The older, quality adaptor plates are stamped of 12 gage? metal, so you wouldn't be able to take off too much before drastically weakening the filter gasket surface.
Years ago, I had an original adaptor plate on my spare Y-block that actually had a noticable dent in the gasket surface. I found a large piece of heavywall pipe that had been cut off square, set the adaptor plate upside down on a clean flat surface. I set the pipe on it and a wooden block on top of the pipe and blasted it with a sledge hammer. It popped the dent right out. I used that y-block with that adaptor plate for many years without any leaks.
I'd hate to think what a machine lathe would do to one of the cheap Chi-Com repro plates made of paper thin metal. Heck, they might be easy enough to cave in by tightening the spin-on filter too tight.

[Tom in TN]

As it turned out I couldn't make it stable enough to face, so i took some 400 grit sandpaper and put it on a 14" bandsaw table and lapped the surface...and it plainly shows what I think is the problem. Using the clock face, with the slot at noon, From 11 to 12:30, I got a good solid path. From 12:30 to 4, I got light contact. From 4 to 8, I got a good solid path. From 8 to 11, I got Nothing- no contact with the grit at all.
Part of me wonders if this is kinda normal and shouldn't the filter gasket be able to compensate for this obvious "unflat" condition?
I have a new adapter kit arriving from Mac's tomorrow and no matter what, the plate I put back on ( either new or old) is going to have a flat surface for the oil filter gasket.
I didn't check the back side of the plate, but I will first thing in the morning.

[Tom in TN]

Well, the back is as warped as the front. Again with the clock face and slot at noon.
From 10:30 to 2:30 I get no contact whatsoever. From 2:30 around to 10:30, I have a good solid path.

[KULTULZ]

MAC'S doesn't have a stellar reputation.

Read Here - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46197

Unless you found an original FORD NOS, you will have the same problem.

[Tom in TN]

You may be right, but whatever piece I use will be lapped to perfection before I install it.
Finger's are crossed that my 'blueprinting' of it will help it work as it should.

[emf]

There is a guy on ebay that sells a plate adapter made from billet aluminum. Probably much better than the thin ones. I don't think that one will warp...


Frank