New Front Spring

[fredski53]

Ok, I got the new 10 leaf front spring, perchs and shackles installed today. My question is: how tight should the 4 U-bolts be tightened down? And, are lock washers used? I don't remember the U-bolts having lock washers. When I tighten the nuts really tight, it seems there is a big space between the bottom of the nut and the hole for the split pin. Also, when I disconnected the shock link, it seems there is no resistance in the shock arm. It moves up and down freely. Does this mean they need to be rebuilt? Thanks, Fred

[J Franklin]

Do you have the pad on top of the spring between it and the crossmember?

Add some fluid (jack oil) to the shock and see if it works or runs out.

[fredski53]

J Franklin, I don't remember there being any thing on top of the old spring. Doesn't the spring just sits in the crossmember? Come to think of it, the old spring had 11 leafs in it. So I guess that would make the spring pack taller!

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

I don’t know if it’s factory, but some put a greasy/ oily pad between spring and crossmember to prevent wear and squeaking. Similar to the anti squeak material under the body. Do you have all of your leaves? Are they new u bolts, as some new ones are dual purpose and therefore too long.you can redrill the cotter pin hole. There are no washers, as they aren’t needed with cotter pins.

[J Franklin]

Mine had a thick piece of leather on top.

[fredski53]

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Yes, it has all 10 leafs,and I sprayed Slip Plate on the bottom of each leaf as per Les Andrews red book. Also glued a strip of body welt to the top leaf. The U-bolts were on the car when it had the old 11 leaf spring.

[john in illinois]

Use a piece of one leaf from your old spring as a spacer on the bottom with a longer center bolt.

John

[sofield]

Originally Posted by fredski53

Ok, I got the new 10 leaf front spring, perchs and shackles installed today. My question is: how tight should the 4 U-bolts be tightened down? And, are lock washers used? I don't remember the U-bolts having lock washers. When I tighten the nuts really tight, it seems there is a big space between the bottom of the nut and the hole for the split pin. Also, when I disconnected the shock link, it seems there is no resistance in the shock arm. It moves up and down freely. Does this mean they need to be rebuilt? Thanks, Fred

I use lock washers and torque to 70 lbs. Grease the spring pocket with wheel bearing grease I don't use the frame webbing on top of the spring but I regularly make sure I oil the crank support 4th bearing.
Sofield

[Y-Blockhead]

Just a thought. Do you have the hand crank 'guide' in place on top of the crossmember that the u-bolts pass thru. If that is missing it could account for your extra length. I can't tell because the radiator shell is in the way in your picture.

[jwilliams81]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Just a thought. Do you have the hand crank 'guide' in place on top of the crossmember that the u-bolts pass thru. If that is missing it could account for your extra length. I can't tell because the radiator shell is in the way in your picture.

I would second this theory

[1931 flamingo]

If the old spring had 11 and the new one has 10, 11-10=1 which equals why the bolts are long. As a previous poster said put a short leaf on the bottom to take up the extra space. FWIW
Paul in CT

[J Franklin]

If you put the short piece on top of the spring no one will see it.

[fredski53]

I hate to have to take the spring out again. Can't I just add a few flat washers to make up for the space?

[1955cj5]

There is a lot of discussion in this thread. This fellow had a different issue but look at the posts by Purdy and Tom W.....# 4 and #5

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138786

Look at post #4 and #5

Both mention that the aftermarket/repop spring U bolts are too long and need to be cut.

I found this to be true with the rears.

I did not re drill for the cotter pin and periodically check the nuts. They have never loosened.

[w.michael]

From the picture you posted, it looks like the bolts would still be too long even if you added an eleventh leaf as a spacer. There are two different styles of starting crank bearings (crank "guides"). The flat crank bearing, used 1928 through early 1930, takes a square U-bolt. The rounded-top crank bearing, used after February 1930 through 1931, takes a round U-bolt. Could you possibly have a crank bearing and U-bolts that do not match?

For reference, look at Bratton's parts 7330, 7340, 7370, and 7380; and page 4-6 in the 2016 RG&JS.

W. Michael

[Bill in NJ]

Could you tighten the nut all the way tight and then drill a hole to put the cotter pin in? If you wanted to you could grind the extra off the bottom ??

[J Franklin]

Washers would do the trick.

[fredski53]

Couldn't I just use some red or blue thread locker and tighten them down tight?

[J Franklin]

Why are you asking when you know all these solutions would work?

[fredski53]

Well, I think what I'm looking for is just how tight do you tighten the 4 U-bolt nuts! Is there a specific toque ? On the shackles,the red book says to tighten the castle nuts just enough to install the split pin. Do you do the same with the U-bolts nuts?!