HT Lead Coil to adaptor on Distributor. 39 Coupe.

[Phil Gillespie]

Today was having 6v +ve earth system checked for irregular miss and hard starting. Presently fitted with can coil to adaptor plate on diver's helmet distributor. Carbon core leads.
Had 3 HT leads from coil to adaptor, 2 measured at 11.5 k ohms one at 13.4 k ohms. He produced one which was at 2.4 k ohms and said this would give better spark.
My question is what should they be? And will these readings show any change in performance in use as my 3 are quite new.
Appreciate advice here as always.
Phil NZ

[deuce_roadster]

I would ditch the carbon core wires for real wire for anything on a 6v system. There is a real problem if you use too hot a coil on those helmet distributors and have too much resistance in the plug wires and/ or have too large of a plug gap. Electricity is simple, it will ALWAYS go to the easiest ground. With too much resistance, that can lead to the spark jumping to the shaft inside the rotor, the one it rotates on. That is why .025 plug gap is recommended, so if your coil is some real hot high voltage one, this could be part of your irregular miss. I know you asked about the coil wire but it makes me wonder about your plug wires.

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I would ditch the carbon core wires for real wire for anything on a 6v system. There is a real problem if you use too hot a coil on those helmet distributors and have too much resistance in the plug wires and/ or have too large of a plug gap. Electricity is simple, it will ALWAYS go to the easiest ground. With too much resistance, that can lead to the spark jumping to the shaft inside the rotor, the one it rotates on. That is why .025 plug gap is recommended, so if your coil is some real hot high voltage one, this could be part of your irregular miss. I know you asked about the coil wire but it makes me wonder about your plug wires.

Appreciate your thoughts as to the carbon core wire at HT lead.
Will be going back to original coil as rewound by Skip and that should rule out the coil. Condense is supplied by 3rd Generation so that should be good. Also will check plug leads also. My plug gaps are 25 thou.
Phil NZ

[tubman]

"deuce_roadster" has it right. Suppression wires on these old cars are problematic.

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by tubman

"deuce_roadster" has it right. Suppression wires on these old cars are problematic.

What is the recommended wire to use for spark plugs. The copper core is the one to go with and not the carbon core type right? Where to get a set of good quality plug wires?
Thanks Phil NZ

[Tinker]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269420


good article.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1006rc-ignition-wiring/


more for fun
http://jerickweb.50webs.com/autobin/...lug_wires.html


If you know what you want this couple have been good to me.
https://www.thehotrodcompany.com/pro...ark-plug-wire/

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by Tinker

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269420


good article.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1006rc-ignition-wiring/


more for fun
http://jerickweb.50webs.com/autobin/...lug_wires.html


If you know what you want this couple have been good to me.
https://www.thehotrodcompany.com/pro...ark-plug-wire/

Good reading in all articles.I'm a simple 6v points ignition system so the solid copper wires for the spark plugs. And refit the original Skip rewound coil and a couple of the important ones should be ok. Will recheck resistance in all my copper plug wires and go from there. These copper wires either work or fail as i understand.
Many thanks,
Phil NZ

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Carbon wire is allowed 1000 ohms per inch with a 22 inch wire being allowed 22,000 ohms and still withing spec. The makers used to sell a machine ( or give them to shops) to check these wires with , as long a there is a circuit they are usually good . The resistance filters out the ac voltage swings to suppress radio noise interference.
The carbon usually breaks at one end or the other and spark begins to jump across the break for many miles , then when it cant jusp any more it will cause a miss.
The helmet coil adapters use a very problem matic cheap condensor , change the condensor to something you know is good , like a FA54 or RR175 NAPA condensor more than lkely thats you missfire....

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Carbon wire is allowed 1000 ohms per inch with a 22 inch wire being allowed 22,000 ohms and still withing spec. The makers used to sell a machine ( or give them to shops) to check these wires with , as long a there is a circuit they are usually good . The resistance filters out the ac voltage swings to suppress radio noise interference.
The carbon usually breaks at one end or the other and spark begins to jump across the break for many miles , then when it cant jusp any more it will cause a miss.
The helmet coil adapters use a very problem matic cheap condensor , change the condensor to something you know is good , like a FA54 or RR175 NAPA condensor more than lkely thats you missfire....

Thanks for your good advice Bubba.
Phil NZ

[deuce_roadster]

Phil, also make sure the ends of the plug wires SNAP into the inner caps, you have to push really hard for them to get "home" sometimes. If they push in and just stop, they should most likely go a little farther and you will feel it get the last little bit all the way in.
Good luck!

[FlatheadTed]

Phil if its a older adapter like the German bremy solder the contact /condenser arm to the brass rivet ,

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Phil if its a older adapter like the German bremy solder the contact /condenser arm to the brass rivet ,

Gonna go back to the old style coil and have some good condensers ex 3rd Generation and now some ordered "trashcan" style with the generous assistance of Tubman.
Dont like the adaptor with the HT lead which sits too close to tip of fan blade.

Also in process of testing/ setting up the locally made Electronic Ignition unit as made here in NZ. It was featured in Beaded Wheels recently.
They come in 12 v or 6v +ve or -ve earth. Still use existing distributor points but do away with the condenser. Have one unit set up on an engine on test stand which starts up good. Made by Magnetpower NZ Ltd right here in Belfast North Canterbury.
Phil NZ