Some Flathead advise

[msalamanca]

Hello everyone,
I just purchased a EAB Flathead, its stock.
It runs, but needs to be updated. I am not looking to do a total rebuild.
Looking to update, clean and drive.
From what I have read, some say to take the covers off, others say if its a runner then dont risk breaking the head bolts. I know it needs new water pumps, dizzy is good on it, I know the carb needs rebuilding, some headers, new plugs.
When you people get a flathead, thats not destined for a total rebuild yet, what do you guys do? I did a bunch of searching on here, there are 20 pages of info, great info.
Just trying to figure out a starting point, like a mini check list.
Also where is a good place to get a Radiator for a 51 shoebox?

Thanks
Matthew

oh and here is a pic of it.

[wga]

At least take off the pan, intake and heads. Gots to see what is in there.
For a radiator, Mattsons and US Radiator are my choice.

[msalamanca]

What about rebuilding the radiator, verses new one? I was looking at the US Radiator High Efficiency core or the Ultima.
Whats the cost difference between rebuilt and new? Last one i had rebuilt was a 53 Chevy and it was $400

[f1builder]

i guess it depends on how much you want to spend too. you say it runs, if it runs well i wouldn't be trying to take it apart. i bought a 50 F3 that had been sitting for over 25 years and fired it up and it ran perfect. changed the oil and plugs and points and it is still a sweet engine. never did smoke, even after sitting all that time and after the first few minutes it ran. as to the radiator, it all depends too, if you have the money a new aluminum is great and gives added cooling capacity. if you want to save, try to find one locally (where are you?) and take it to a good radiator shop and have it tested and fixed if necessary. i had my 51 merc radiator done locally for $75.00 and it works great. good luck and keep us posted.

[flatjack9]

I would at least pull the oil pan and clean it and the screen. Change the pumps, rebuild the carb and run it. Use NGK B6L plugs.

[Ol' Ron]

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A reasonable up grade would be to first do a compression test, if all the cylinders fall with in except able range, I 'd remove the heads and have them milled to give .040-.050" Piston to head clearance. I'd then replace the distributor with a modifies SBC unit there are several people here that can do this. These small modifications will increase performance and economy.

[Tinker]

Compression test is free if you have a gauge already. Full engine gasket set is about $100. If you do the pan and water pumps it'll cost you about $10-25 in gaskets. So it's up to you how far you want to tear into it. It's not in a car so really now is the time to tear into it. Start soaking everything and you wont have as much issues with breaking bolts, if you will at all.

[36tbird]

As important as getting your flathead, is getting your flathead tools or have a friend who has the tools to lend to you. Have you got those?

[msalamanca]

Thanks everyone for the advise. I really appreciate it. I do have to get some of the tools. I was planning on starting on it at the end of the month, so in the mean time I will be getting things for it. Yeah i was looking at getting the gasket overhaul set for sure. I know these engines aren't cheap to fix up. So trying to find the best deals and quality, which doesn't always go together.
For a daily driver, which ignition system should I get? From what I have read this is crucial for the flatheads, but don't want to go overboard, there is wide spectrum on pricing and quality.
Should I put a pcv in it?

Thanks again

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by msalamanca

Thanks everyone for the advise. I really appreciate it. I do have to get some of the tools. I was planning on starting on it at the end of the month, so in the mean time I will be getting things for it. Yeah i was looking at getting the gasket overhaul set for sure. I know these engines aren't cheap to fix up. So trying to find the best deals and quality, which doesn't always go together.
For a daily driver, which ignition system should I get? From what I have read this is crucial for the flatheads, but don't want to go overboard, there is wide spectrum on pricing and quality.
Should I put a pcv in it?

Thanks again

Our chevrolet conversion distributor is $150 and comes with resitor (12 volt) distributor cap and rotor......works very good ...

[36tbird]

I got one of Bubba's dizzies with a Pertronix. Can't be beat, in my book. Yes, to your question about a PCV and it is easy to install on an 8BA by removing the downdraft tube. Been covered a lot on this site and the HAMB.

[OLD...BILL]

Originally Posted by msalamanca

Thanks everyone for the advise. I really appreciate it. I do have to get some of the tools. I was planning on starting on it at the end of the month, so in the mean time I will be getting things for it. Yeah i was looking at getting the gasket overhaul set for sure. I know these engines aren't cheap to fix up. So trying to find the best deals and quality, which doesn't always go together.
For a daily driver, which ignition system should I get? From what I have read this is crucial for the flatheads, but don't want to go overboard, there is wide spectrum on pricing and quality.
Should I put a pcv in it?

Thanks again

YES: I would go with flatjack PLUS pull the intake off and clean the lifter vally completly or to your satisfaction, the pan and the intake to your mech shop for hot tanking ( super cleaning ) also pull the oil pump, apart and to the hot tank, thay come back so clean, inspect the oil pump gears, if not pitted, run em. ... As for the ignition, YES go with one of the rebuilders on the barn, same with the water pumps and the carb, ..KEEP reading the barn, some of the builders do both, and all stand behine there work .. BIG TEME.. to me the most important for all us to do is a good EXHAUST SUSTEM for all flatheads, it needs to breath, to run good, sound good, and run COOL too.... and for the heads, not at this time, run it for a while, and think what you want. and then do the heahs as OL' Ron: said, 40 to 50 off... is a good up grade.... Don't go two carbs on a stock cam, waste of money and gas to....IMHO.... OLD....BILL

[cadillacoffin]

this guy on the hamb offers full felpro kits for 70 to your door. he no longer runs his website but can be reached on the hamb.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/member.php?u=8363

[msalamanca]

So I opened it up this weekend. What do you guys think?

[Jack E/NJ]

5 & 8 look like they may have been misfiring or not firing much. Normal patina in valley. You're gonna have a lotta fun.

Jack E/NJ

[f1builder]

ok now you done it. my next step would be to take the whole thing down and have the block tanked and fluxed. check tolerances, probably a valve job and seats, new bearings, maybe need boring and rings, etc.. no sense going short on it now imo, i would look at doing some performance enhancing stuff like bigger bore, 4" crank, mild cam, full flow oil system, 2x4 intake or maybe a 4bbl, headers, assuming the block is good. the fun is just starting, stay strong my friend.

[msalamanca]

From what I saw, it has no major cracks.
I wasnt looking to do a full blown rebuild on it yet. Wanted to freshen it up as much as possible and run it.
It turns very smoothly, the cylinder walls are in great shape.
Am I asking to much from this from what you guys see? I know its just a couple pics.

[f1builder]

check the cylinders to see how much of a ridge there is, that can be an indication of wear. if you just replace the rings and hone the cylinders and do the valves you might get by ok. i would wonder about the rod bearings and the mains too. might as well do them too. like ron said, mill the heads if you can. its kind of a crapshoot once you get into it though. the valley is a mess and several pistons are burned which could indicate some overheating issues. also check the scale in the heads and block, from the pics it looks heavy and that would make me want to tank it and really scrub it out good. the decks do look real good from the pics which is a good sign.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Looking in the rear big water holes, it looks like block is filled with crap. Should be backed out. Walt

[blown49]

I agree with Ron the block coolant holes look like they are full of scale and if they are it'll never run cool. Do what you want but if you put it back together as is I'd sure do a vinegar flush on it when it's restarted.

Jim