Leakless Water pump

[JoeMarine]

I am a proud new owner of a 1930 Model A. I recently went to Brattons in Maryland to purchase a leakless water pump. Is there any hints/secrets of replacing an old pump with this device? It looks pretty black and white. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Semper Fi

[Joe K]

Black & white is exactly right.

The only suggestion I might entertain is to use one of the additives in your coolant that promotes water pump lubrication. Your leakless will include what is known in the seal trade as a "lip seal" which is where the rubber ring contacts the shaft. These seals work fine using only the water as a lubricant - but they work better and LONGER if you provide something in the water to lubricate their point, er, line seal.

Other than that it should be "bolt off - bolt on" replacement for the original type water pump.

Oh - the grease zerks are for show. No lubrication necessary or possible.

Joe K

[JoeMarine]

Thank you Joe K. . .I'll let you know how it goes.
Semper Fi

[kingbee]

Actually, not all leakless pumps are greaseless, some require grease at one or both of the fittings. Best way to tell is to remove the fittings and examine the pump to see if it requires grease or not, or if the fittings are dummies.

[glenn in camino]

You should also get one of the collars, that goes in your fan hub, to control endplay of the shaft. Water pump lubricant is also a good idea.

[Charlie Stephens]

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Put a piece of cardboard over your radiator to protect it while you are working. Replace the four studs and nuts that hold the pump on with bolts. If you want the car to look right there are studs made (Bratton's?) with the nuts attached so everything will unscrew. This will make taking it off easier next time.

Charlie Stephens

[ctlikon0712]

If you have an old original fan, check it real close for cracks. Better yet, repace it with a new aluminum one. There are many testimonials on here if you search about the damage an old one can cause.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ght=fan+damage

[Purdy Swoft]

Now would be a good time to install one of the new two blade aluminum fans on the pump before you install it. I add the water pump lubricant to the water like Joe K, mine squeeks if I don't. With the two blade fan and the water pump bolts like Charley says, the water pump and fan can be removes and replaced without removeing the radiator.

[JoeMarine]

Joe K, can you give me a recommendation for an additive in your coolant that promotes water pump lubrication. I am unfamiliar with this concept.

[160B]

Originally Posted by JoeMarine

Joe K, can you give me a recommendation for an additive in your coolant that promotes water pump lubrication. I am unfamiliar with this concept.

Go to your local auto parts store and ask for a radiator anti rust and water pump lubricant additive. I have heard of people using a water based lubricant that is used in machining in their radiator.

[Joe K]

To be truthful, I have not used the lubricant. I'm still living in the stone age with graphite impregnated cotton cord.

But I haven't ruled it out....

Joe K

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Yo, Joe,
Make sure the water pump shaft at the impeller end is NOT too long & hitting the protrusion in the head, causing the pump not to seat properly to the head. If it hits, just grind some off the end of the shaft. Put a little sealer on the 4 water pump bolt threads, or they'll weep water, most likely! Bill W.

[Kahuna]

It's called water-soluble oil. NAPA stores sell it

[johnbuckley]

and get a set of water pump mounting stud bolts for a few dollars. - the type with the stud with the nut machined on ( Brattons part A 8005-B) best thing since sliced bread.

[Joe K]

And some leakless water pumps have a front bearing that is based on a "bearing pac" and doesn't allow front/back movement of the shaft.

This makes the shaft extension behind the impeller unnecessary and also removes any necessity for a shim between the pump nose and the rear of the fan hub.

The one I have on my shelf (not installed yet) is of this ilk.

Joe K

[Tim B.]

Good choice. It has Greaseable rear bearing with backup packing if it should ever leak. Has the collar and correct length shaft & new gasket. I chose to not remove the studs to avoid breaking them off and creating more work than the time it takes to remove & install a radiator. The Two blade fan is excellent advice it moves a lot of air. I find that combined with my 10 fin per inch radiator & 160 thermostat the mercury/alcohol in the motometer barely reaches into the sight glass. Whie you are at it you may want to put on a new fan belt. Tim

[JoeMarine]

Thanks everyone. . .project goes into full tilt on Sunday!
Semper Fidelis

[Tork Tudor]

On a recent tour, my leakless waterpump started leaking out the front of the rear seal/bushing. The rear packing nut was a bit loose and so I started tightening it down but if I tightened it too much then the leak got worse.

What is the proper way of making certain that the rear bushing style, leakless waterpump runs leakless. Could it be that I should have added more grease to the rear bushing?

Tork

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Tork Tudor

On a recent tour, my leakless waterpump started leaking out the front of the rear seal/bushing. The rear packing nut was a bit loose and so I started tightening it down but if I tightened it too much then the leak got worse.

What is the proper way of making certain that the rear bushing style, leakless waterpump runs leakless. Could it be that I should have added more grease to the rear bushing?

Tork

I sure hear of a lot of "leakless" pumps that leak. The most leakless pump I've had is a totally stock pump with grease smeared on the 2 lead packing rings.

[glenn in camino]

Leakless is a temporary condition.