The Ford Barn

Railcarmover · 03-28-2018, 08:57 PM

camshaft endplay isnt important,its held in place by that spring and plunger you were asking about earlier..tell us how much crankshaft endplay you have..

Bulligen · 03-28-2018, 10:15 PM

Just so you know, the X on the plunger is to keep the oil lubricating it.

katy · 03-29-2018, 08:50 AM

I would either replace that plunger or face it off and recut the grooves.

cederholm · 03-30-2018, 06:40 AM

I'm new here and am only now looking to buy my first A but I had a knock in on off-topic '53 Stovebolt 6. I spent a year chasing that thing an this was after a full rebuild of the motor (done by me). I and everyone who listened said the noise was at the back of the block. It wasn't until I invested $5 at Harbor Freight for a motor stethoscope that I found the issue. It was a loose dampener on the lower pulley slamming into the crank and sending the sound along the whole crank.

Anyway, it looks like you're on the right track but if not pick up one of those stethoscopes and listed to EVERYTHING.

That and I agree with others your car is beautiful - I'd refresh that motor in a second!

~ Carl

Railcarmover · 03-30-2018, 08:17 AM

The model a engine requires periodic maintenance to maintain optimum performance.If the engine still has babbit rod and main bearings one should check the bearing oil clearance,and remove shims if necessary.When chasing a knock this step is vital,not only for longevity of the engine but proper diagnosis,an over spec rod or main clearance is one of the main reasons for a knock.
So many neglect this basic maintenance item with catastrophic results,bearing failure leads to expensive engine overhauls. A hobbyist with basic skills and attention to detail can perform this task,and should every time the oil pan is off.To back up this repair on an engine in this condition,light honing the cylinders and replacing rings along with hand lapping the valves insures proper performance.

Garagekulture13 · 04-02-2018, 04:28 PM

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I'm still pecking away at it. Trying to clean and paint what I can get to at this point. Also I realize my oil pump holder device is crude at best but it worked in a pinch. I will keep everyone up to date on my progress. Thanks to all for the help thus far.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

WHN · 04-03-2018, 01:41 PM

I can’t believe how much you have gotten done in such a short time.

Please tell us how it runs when you get it back together.

Looks great.

Bob C · 04-03-2018, 02:34 PM

Looks good. I don't see a cotter pin in the fan nut, if that's an original fan
now would be a good time to throw it in the trash.

Bob

Bulligen · 04-03-2018, 11:09 PM

Yes Sir look out for the fan. We had one blade fly off in a 52 ford truck, as we headed down the highway. Thought someone shot at us. The blade almost went through the hood!

Bulligen · 04-03-2018, 11:12 PM

I meant to add that you are doing a very nice job. And the best way is to do it yourself. Now you will be able to help out a fellow Model A person when the question comes up!

Garagekulture13 · 04-05-2018, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

Looks good. I don't see a cotter pin in the fan nut, if that's an original fan
now would be a good time to throw it in the trash.

Bob

I just saw this post after I got the radiator back in and the wiring done. You are correct there is no cotter pin and the nut is not down far enough to get one in.

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Garagekulture13 · 04-05-2018, 09:42 AM

Is the throttle linkage supposed to be curved like this or is it supposed to be flat? Straight up? I'm referring to the "U" shaped bracket that bolts to the back of the motor.

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Bob C · 04-05-2018, 10:45 AM

Looks like some one put a washer between the nut and fan, that is probably
why you can't get the cotter pin in. The throttle control should be straight,
they get bent when you jack the front of the engine up without removing them first.

Bob

Tom Wesenberg · 04-05-2018, 06:13 PM

The throttle linkage bracket is correct as pictured. It curves forward for proper clearance. It has two holes that need to be oiled also, besides oiling the bellcrank.

Garagekulture13 · 04-05-2018, 09:16 PM

Ok. I bent it back as I was first told it was supposed to be straight. Once I did this it now is hitting the body. So is it supposed to be bent or straight? I thought I had gone to far but now after the 2nd comment believe maybe it was correct to begin with. Any help??

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Tom Wesenberg · 04-05-2018, 11:27 PM

Any help?

Yes, I posted the help already.

Garagekulture13 · 04-05-2018, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Any help?

Yes, I posted the help already.

Thank you sir. I will try and bend it back in the morning.

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Tom Wesenberg · 04-05-2018, 11:54 PM

Reply #9 in this thread shows my 1928 linkage is close to the block, as it should be.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...e+pictures+Tom

Garagekulture13 · 04-06-2018, 11:12 AM

The good news the car is back together. The bad news is it won't hit. Assumably it's something to do with timing. I checked the timing with the pin in, piston TDC, and the rotor button at the correct spot.

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100IH · 04-06-2018, 12:25 PM

Throttle linkage trick, Pick up a bunch at swap meets. Even if they are bent up. What's bent on one might be straight elsewhere. Almost all will need massaging and there are about 6 variants over the 4 years of production. Fortunately they are usually cheap and don't take much space on the shelf.

03-28-2018, 08:57 PM	#61
Railcarmover BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,262	Re: Chasing the knock. camshaft endplay isnt important,its held in place by that spring and plunger you were asking about earlier..tell us how much crankshaft endplay you have..

03-28-2018, 10:15 PM	#62
Bulligen Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Elgin Illinois Posts: 736	Re: Chasing the knock. Just so you know, the X on the plunger is to keep the oil lubricating it.

03-29-2018, 08:50 AM	#63
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,042	Re: Chasing the knock. I would either replace that plunger or face it off and recut the grooves. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

03-30-2018, 06:40 AM	#64
cederholm Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Southport CT Posts: 318	Re: Chasing the knock. I'm new here and am only now looking to buy my first A but I had a knock in on off-topic '53 Stovebolt 6. I spent a year chasing that thing an this was after a full rebuild of the motor (done by me). I and everyone who listened said the noise was at the back of the block. It wasn't until I invested $5 at Harbor Freight for a motor stethoscope that I found the issue. It was a loose dampener on the lower pulley slamming into the crank and sending the sound along the whole crank. Anyway, it looks like you're on the right track but if not pick up one of those stethoscopes and listed to EVERYTHING. That and I agree with others your car is beautiful - I'd refresh that motor in a second! ~ Carl

03-30-2018, 08:17 AM	#65
Railcarmover BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,262	Re: Chasing the knock. The model a engine requires periodic maintenance to maintain optimum performance.If the engine still has babbit rod and main bearings one should check the bearing oil clearance,and remove shims if necessary.When chasing a knock this step is vital,not only for longevity of the engine but proper diagnosis,an over spec rod or main clearance is one of the main reasons for a knock. So many neglect this basic maintenance item with catastrophic results,bearing failure leads to expensive engine overhauls. A hobbyist with basic skills and attention to detail can perform this task,and should every time the oil pan is off.To back up this repair on an engine in this condition,light honing the cylinders and replacing rings along with hand lapping the valves insures proper performance.

04-02-2018, 04:28 PM	#66
Garagekulture13 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 179	Re: Chasing the knock. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I'm still pecking away at it. Trying to clean and paint what I can get to at this point. Also I realize my oil pump holder device is crude at best but it worked in a pinch. I will keep everyone up to date on my progress. Thanks to all for the help thus far. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

04-03-2018, 01:41 PM	#67
WHN Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Connecticut Shoreline Posts: 1,820	Re: Chasing the knock. I can’t believe how much you have gotten done in such a short time. Please tell us how it runs when you get it back together. Looks great.

04-03-2018, 11:09 PM	#69
Bulligen Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Elgin Illinois Posts: 736	Re: Chasing the knock. Yes Sir look out for the fan. We had one blade fly off in a 52 ford truck, as we headed down the highway. Thought someone shot at us. The blade almost went through the hood!

04-03-2018, 11:12 PM	#70
Bulligen Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Elgin Illinois Posts: 736	Re: Chasing the knock. I meant to add that you are doing a very nice job. And the best way is to do it yourself. Now you will be able to help out a fellow Model A person when the question comes up!

04-05-2018, 09:42 AM	#72
Garagekulture13 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 179	Re: Chasing the knock. Is the throttle linkage supposed to be curved like this or is it supposed to be flat? Straight up? I'm referring to the "U" shaped bracket that bolts to the back of the motor. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

04-05-2018, 10:45 AM	#73
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: Chasing the knock. Looks like some one put a washer between the nut and fan, that is probably why you can't get the cotter pin in. The throttle control should be straight, they get bent when you jack the front of the engine up without removing them first. Bob Last edited by Bob C; 04-06-2018 at 09:23 PM. Reason: Bad info, Tom is right.

04-05-2018, 06:13 PM	#74
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Chasing the knock. The throttle linkage bracket is correct as pictured. It curves forward for proper clearance. It has two holes that need to be oiled also, besides oiling the bellcrank.

04-05-2018, 09:16 PM	#75
Garagekulture13 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 179	Re: Chasing the knock. Ok. I bent it back as I was first told it was supposed to be straight. Once I did this it now is hitting the body. So is it supposed to be bent or straight? I thought I had gone to far but now after the 2nd comment believe maybe it was correct to begin with. Any help?? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

04-05-2018, 11:27 PM	#76
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Chasing the knock. Any help? Yes, I posted the help already.

04-05-2018, 11:54 PM	#78
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Chasing the knock. Reply #9 in this thread shows my 1928 linkage is close to the block, as it should be. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...e+pictures+Tom

04-06-2018, 11:12 AM	#79
Garagekulture13 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 179	Re: Chasing the knock. The good news the car is back together. The bad news is it won't hit. Assumably it's something to do with timing. I checked the timing with the pin in, piston TDC, and the rotor button at the correct spot. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

04-06-2018, 12:25 PM	#80
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Chasing the knock. Throttle linkage trick, Pick up a bunch at swap meets. Even if they are bent up. What's bent on one might be straight elsewhere. Almost all will need massaging and there are about 6 variants over the 4 years of production. Fortunately they are usually cheap and don't take much space on the shelf.