Hand crank repair

[Will D]

To make a long story short as well as save myself some embarrassment, I managed to shear the pin in the end of my hand crank. Without going into too much detail it was a hot day, left lane on a 4 lane road, pointed uphill at a stop light with a weak battery, possible inexperience and slight panic It has sat in the trunk broken for awhile and I would like to fix it.

What can I use to replace the pin? I have tried a few things in the shop but with no such luck. I have read up on heat treating, slow cooling, oil dipping metal..... but not sure the correct properties it should have to maintain strength but not shear or bend.

[FlatheadTed]

I would say Allan key /cap screw bolt . use the shank part not the threads ,

[fordor41]

or a roll pin. they're pretty tough

[Kurt in NJ]

Look for original, the end is forged one piece ---- to try repair look for dowel pin, perhaps part of bolt

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Will D

What can I use to replace the pin? I have tried a few things in the shop but with no such luck. I have read up on heat treating, slow cooling, oil dipping metal..... but not sure the correct properties it should have to maintain strength but not shear or bend.

Hey Will....As you can see, there MAY be different diameters of pins used in these cranks, whether yours IS, or is NOT a "Ford" crank. So, best you can measure, what is the diameter of that hole? I REALLY don't believe I would be trying to use a roll-pin. DD

[Will D]

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Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Hey Will....As you can see, there MAY be different diameters of pins used in these cranks, whether yours IS, or is NOT a "Ford" crank. So, best you can measure, what is the diameter of that hole? I REALLY don't believe I would be trying to use a roll-pin. DD

Hey DD....not sure if it's original ford crank or not. Best I can measure, the hole for thr pin is 0.222 inch. The engine is a '46 flathead. Are those in the pics you posted "Ford?" Mine has a tapered tip as shown in the first pic and a sliding metal handle, with 2 indents to prevent it from slipping off.

[Will D]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

Look for original, the end is forged one piece ---- to try repair look for dowel pin, perhaps part of bolt

Are you saying the original was not a pin in a shaft but one piece? Supposing mine was not original or has been repaired already at one point as after it sheared I was able to hammer out the piece remaining in the main hand crank shaft, it was definitely 2 pieces, not one forged unit.

[Will D]

Thought about a roll pin but couldn't source one locally the right size. May try a cap screw bolt as Ted suggested unless someone can tell me how to properly heat treat a steel pin so it will not shear or bend...

[Kurt in NJ]

typically the original flathead hand crank is in 2 pieces, a handle that is lug wrench on one end, the other a tapered square socket, then the extension one end tapered to fit socket on handle, the other a forged end fitting crank ratchet, different years had different lengths

When I had my 46 I had one to fit, but the plate bracket is in the way , I think by postwar it was only in export car tool kit, the length might be mentioned in the "green book"(28-48 parts book)

[aussie merc]

if using a roll pin i would try for a double roll [their two layers thick not one as a standard ] personally i would try cut down pin punch or a bolt shaft [grade 8 ] as already suggested

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Will D

Thought about a roll pin but couldn't source one locally the right size. May try a cap screw bolt as Ted suggested unless someone can tell me how to properly heat treat a steel pin so it will not shear or bend...

Will....On the crankshaft pulley nut on YOUR engine like the one pictured, would it be possible for you to 'fit' a bolt into one of the radiused cogs to determine what the MAX diameter the pin could possibly fit? I'm not suggesting to use a pin of that diameter, because it likely needs to be a 1/16" or so smaller in diameter so that it will easily release (not get hung-up) when the engine starts. Before we decide on any possible solutions, can you get the size (diameter) of that half-round?


I believe I would also consider using an appropriately-sized drift shank 'cut-off', as they are usually pretty decent steel, and inexpensive when bought individually. More detailed fabrication ideas once you get a size. DD

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

typically the original flathead hand crank is in 2 pieces, a handle that is lug wrench on one end, the other a tapered square socket, then the extension one end tapered to fit socket on handle, the other a forged end fitting crank ratchet, different years had different lengths

When I had my 46 I had one to fit, but the plate bracket is in the way , I think by postwar it was only in export car tool kit, the length might be mentioned in the "green book"(28-48 parts book)

Yep... Up to 38 anyway. Not that I was going to crank a v8 up by hand. Not sure 1939s had a hole in the grill in the front to hand crank a v8 anyway...

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Not sure 1939s had a hole in the grill in the front to hand crank a v8 anyway...

It's SO easy to be sure! DD

[Automotive Stud]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Yep... Up to 38 anyway. Not that I was going to crank a v8 up by hand. Not sure 1939s had a hole in the grill in the front to hand crank a v8 anyway...

All Fords had the crank hole up until 1948. I wouldn't try to hand crank it either.

[drolston]

Unless you are under 40 and in very good shape, I would not worry about the strength of that pin. And if the radiator has ever been changed from stock, the chances of getting things to line up perfectly are pretty slim. Once tried to crank my stock (at that time) '35 coupe and could not get it lined up. Turned out to be disintegrated motor mounts.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Automotive Stud

All Fords had the crank hole up until 1948. I wouldn't try to hand crank it either.

Someone on the board here recently said he cranks his '39(?) frequently just to get a reaction out of folks. Said it's pretty easy, actually. DD

[deuce_roadster]

My 40 wagon when I purchased it in 1973 had a long 1 piece crank like Will D shows in post #1 in the tool compartment. While it came with the car, the car itself was FAR from complete (no motor, half the wood missing) so I am not going to say it was the original. If Will D PMs me the length of the straight part and if he wants another and mine is the same maybe if he is going by sometime I could give it to him. My wagon has been judged twice on the EFV8 concourse and the lug nut handle and extension I had were deemed correct for me. Lin Stacy could tell us what that long 1 piece crank is for I bet.

[tubman]

As I have posted before, I used to win a lot of beers betting people that I could start the 468" Pierce-Arrow V12 in my '48 Seagrave pumper with crank. Yep, it had a crank hole in the grille. That's 100% more displacement and 50% more cylinders than a '39 Ford V8, so I would think that starting one of those would be a cinch.

[Kurt in NJ]

I dug through the tool stash, got to picture it, labeled as 42-48

[MGG]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Someone on the board here recently said he cranks his '39(?) frequently just to get a reaction out of folks. Said it's pretty easy, actually. DD

I crank my 40 once in a while. It does start very easily with about a third of a turn. You have to know how though, so you do not get hurt if something goes wrong. It helps if it is warmed up. Why do I do it? Just to see if I can and impress my friends.