Torque wrench

[OLD AS I]

Have to replace my torque wrench, any comments on what make, sweep needle dial gauge or clicker type, just for use on V8 flat heads so perhaps a range of 40-80 ft lbs, thanks for input, .......... cheers

[37 Cab]

I have both a dial gauge and clicker type. If you get the clicker type be sure to back off the torque setting after each use or it will be out of calibration after a while. I like the clicker for ease of use and initial torque. The dial suits me better for lower torque values. If I only had one it would be the dial type just because I trust it.

[40 Deluxe]

Your arm may get shaky after about the 37th head bolt so it may be hard to read the dial type! I've had good results with the $12-14 Harbor Freight clickers. I have an electronic torque wrench tester and the HF ones are within a pound or two. One of the car magazines did a test a few years ago and found the HF ones to be accurate also. It takes a little squinting, bright light or magnifying glass for me to read the scale, though.

[luvmyclassics]

Harbor Freight also sells a torque wrench calibration unit for $29.00

I just bought one but have not tested it.

Lots of you tube videos about how accurate it is.

[cas3]

just a few weeks back i was putting heads on a v8 using an old snap on torque wrench i had just bought at a swap meet last summer. i had a nice snap on bought new in the 70's that burned in a fire, dial type, i liked it and bought this other one. so putting on heads, i only got to 40lbs and it seemed to me to be harder than it should, so i stopped to check my wrench against another. sure enough it was reading 12lbs lighter than the neighbors. good thing i stopped. so thinking it was a high quality thing i looked into having it rebuilt. reading posts on the garage forum i came across the post from a man that works at a place that rebuilds them. take it how you wish, but he said, the dial type are most accurate, and most sensitive to being banged around. the click type can be good if you always back off the spring, and you get the most bang for your buck with the plain ol cheap beam type. they may be off a pound or so when new but will most likely stay that way your whole life. so if you like to just throw it in the drawer, and not treat it like an egg, your better off with the cheap beam. me, i bought a used beam off the neighbor for ten bucks instead of sending the snap on out for a 100+ rebuild

[Mark Slight]

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oldasi,

As a former Snap-On Dealer in the USA I took my customers torque wrenches to the local Snap-on repair center had had them calibrated. Most of them did not need to be overhauled.

You may want to check your local phone book for a Snap-On dealer in your area.

Mark

[Barry-ct]

I have a beam type that I bought in 1974 and it's still accurate. I also have 3 of the Harbor Freight ones and they are also accurate against a professional Snap On. I use the HF ones in my lawn mower repairs that I do, and are fine.

[bruce lee]

Mine from snap on is brand new digital. It vibrates, and beeps loud at correct torque. It also does angles and a lot more than I will ever need. I plan on building a lot of projects that need good torque values so I stepped up and bought one. It was around 500.00$. I just can't buy cheap junk tools so I stay as far from hf as possible. I would say just buy a craftsmen if you don't want to spend a lot of money.

[19Fordy]

Lowe's and Home Depot sell a good "clicker" type wrench.
Don't waste your money on a Harbor Freight torque wrench.
The quality is poor.

[STEVE O]

I have a older Snap-on "clicker" style torque wrench. Shortly after paying to have it calibrated, the ratchet head has went bad (stripped out inside the head)after getting pissed at my local Snap-on man I have checked with 3 other salesmen and the head is discontinued so I am told I am out of luck. The only thing they can offer is sell me a new one. No way! I'll buy the craftsman for less than half.

[Tim Ayers]

I have a Precision Instruments bar type torque wrench. It's a 1/2" version, made in the USA and was under $150. I'm assuming a 3/8" would be cheaper.

[Charlie Stephens]

Remember you need to torque the rear axle nut. A couple of hundred pounds (depending on where you are reading). Maybe you need 2 different wrenches.

Charlie Stephens

[Bruce Lancaster]

I read an interesting torque wrench article by a NASCAR team chief, who was of course VERY picky about every detail.
He said to use the clickers for all the heavy iron work, with frequent calibrations just for insurance.
For connecting rods only, he used the old fashioned beam and pointer in a range close to the torque needs of his rods. Nothing to get out of order and all the accuracy that one would need for fasteners that are rather low torque AND absolutely critical.

[flatford39]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I have a Precision Instruments bar type torque wrench. It's a 1/2" version, made in the USA and was under $150. I'm assuming a 3/8" would be cheaper.

Precision Instruments is the manufacturer for Snapon.

[OLD AS I]

Well, bite the bullet and bought a Snap-on, see its made in USA, 3/8" drive, 50 ft-lb, not cheap, $349.80 shipped to Canada, has to come from Crystal Lake ILL direct from Snap-on, dial needell gauge.

[Capt Kirk]

Tight plus a half turn

[OLD AS I]

Capt Kirk, you meaning to turn tight then 1/2 turn, no torque wrench ?

[36coupe]

I have a Gray Canada 3/8 clicker for 35 years and I always wind off the tension after use. I check it with a newer one once in while by setting them at the same setting and joining them together with what ever sockets works and see if they click at the same time.

[cas3]

today i saw a friends snap on, dial type with a light that goes on when your goal is met ! way cool, but how much??

[cmbrucew]

I replaced a beam with a Proto clicker, middle 70s, and bought Snap on 1/4" and 3/8".
I trust the old Proto. Used it with torque multipliers on a lot of stuff.
Bruce

[corvette8n]

450 ft-lbs on the rear axle nut for this tractor, I use a 3/4 drive socket and a 4 foot cheater, bar then jump on it with my 225 lbs.

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by oldasi

Capt Kirk, you meaning to turn tight then 1/2 turn, no torque wrench ?

I was kidding...

[5851a]

Should that be a 2 foot bar?

[OLD AS I]

OK Capt Kirk, you got me,

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by 5851a

Should that be a 2 foot bar?

Yep, 4' bar gives him 900 ft-lbs and if he's "jumping"...he's getting an additional impact loading on top if it.

[rotorwrench]

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I use torque wrenches a lot in my business. Proto (and their Blackhawk brand), KD tool, Mack Tool, Sweeny, some no name varieties, and Snap On have all been used by various employees in my shop over the years. Since it is an FAA certified repair station, we have to check calibration every year unless a particular wrench is in need of adjustment. When they fall outside 4% of accuracy, I have to decrease the check interval by 1/2 or 6-months of our yearly interval. I've had more than a few wenches that could not even be calibrated and had to be scrapped. Many of the lesser price click types have failed but the Snap On ones are still working. I've had ratchet heads replaced in a lot of ratchet handles but not in a torque wrench yet. I just don't use a torque wrench all that much to snug the fasteners up. I never use one to loosen a fastener. Torque wrenches are expensive but it is costing me 75 bucks every year to get each one checked. Try pricing a good quality torque wrench testing tool. They are well over 1000 bucks plus they have to be calibrated every year too. If it takes a dump then your out a bunch of money. Times they are a changing. One day it may be cheaper to buy a new torque wrench every year than to get one calibrated.

The longest lasting and least expensive type are the deflecting beam type but you may notice that very few if any are even available anymore. They were too good. The dial types are also a form of deflecting beam but I don't see many of those available anymore either. I had one cheap dial type crater out once but my Snap On ones still pass calibration after 35+ years in service.

[woodiewagon46]

I know I am going to start a "s**t storm" here, but DO NOT buy the Harbor Freight torque wrench. Just for the heck of it one night we compared the HF to a calibrated Snap On and the HF was WAY off, 15 to 20 lbs. under and not repeatable. Not worth the aggravation.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Hence the selective use of the beam type by the NASCAR guru; you could have your pet gorilla install the heads with an open end wrench and the engine will probably run fine, but a few pounds off on a little rod fastener will end your career.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

I know I am going to start a "s**t storm" here, but DO NOT buy the Harbor Freight torque wrench. Just for the heck of it one night we compared the HF to a calibrated Snap On and the HF was WAY off, 15 to 20 lbs. under and not repeatable. Not worth the aggravation.

I won't buy one from H.F., but on Ryan's sister site (Garage Journal), there are guys on there that had the exact opposite results as you did.

They compared a HF to a SO and the HF was right on with the SO, so maybe they happened on a good one?

[rotorwrench]

All My Snap On ones are old and made back when stuff didn't have electronics added. They may not make good ones like they used to. Some of the newer ones are LCD type readout and beep at you when you reach the prescribed torque. Since my old ones still work, I haven't yet had a need to find out if they're worth a crap or not. I hope I don't have to.