The Ford Barn

carolinamudwalker · 08-19-2015, 02:34 PM

Returning to the east coast from the Smoky Mountains I had a distributor cap come apart. After replacing it The car would run fine at speed but would back fire, spit & sputter at every stop light and then quit. Poring water over the carb and giving it a few minutes it would start and run fine until the next time I had to slow down. This went on until I pulled into the drive way at 9:00 PM. The car was running hotter than normal,about 190 deg. The 5 day trip out and in the mountains it ran like a Swiss watch. What happened?? Bob New Bern N.C.

Patrick L. · 08-19-2015, 02:38 PM

I'm wondering why the cap broke. If for some reason the rotor contacted it and caused it to break, then I'd look for bad bushing and if the cam slipped and turned throwing off the timing. Maybe the rotor and 'new' cap are bad also.

Mitch//pa · 08-19-2015, 02:59 PM

maybe your rotor shifted try resetting the timing

carolinamudwalker · 08-19-2015, 03:05 PM

My mistake, the rotor came apart and there was a lot of brass chips in the body. I am thinking a timing problem but why would it run ok at 45 to 50 mph?

Mitch//pa · 08-19-2015, 03:08 PM

because your already up to speed.. also check the points , gap and the lower plate wire..
maybe pieces got down in the dist and
or dist play in the shaft

Tiny · 08-19-2015, 03:10 PM

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What caused the rotor to come apart? Sounds like its time to rebuild that distributor. Bushings and shaft sound worn allowing the rotor to contact the body. Maybe at high speed it "centers" its self and at idle it flops around?

hangarb7 · 08-19-2015, 03:45 PM

That is suspicious about the rotor coming apart, yet it did not happen again. I don't think you mentioned that you replaced the body which could have been damaged if the rotor got caught for a moment when it was disintegrating.

My only overheating problem was caused by timing and a loose fan belt and it was causing the engine to overheat and pouring a bottle of water on the carb helped because the gasohol was boiing in the bowl and the sediment filter.

I think this is timing related all the way for my two cents. If you are running older points/condenser, then overheating is causing that condenser to break down, too.

I haven't had a condenser go bad in five years since I got the timing/hence the engine temps in check.

JackD

Tom Wesenberg · 08-22-2015, 04:54 AM

My first thought is fuel boiling at slower speeds where you have less air movement.
Have you tried buying only the good gas to see if that helps?
Insulating the fuel line and making a heat shield for the carb can also help.

08-19-2015, 02:34 PM	#1
carolinamudwalker Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 45	Will not run at low speed Returning to the east coast from the Smoky Mountains I had a distributor cap come apart. After replacing it The car would run fine at speed but would back fire, spit & sputter at every stop light and then quit. Poring water over the carb and giving it a few minutes it would start and run fine until the next time I had to slow down. This went on until I pulled into the drive way at 9:00 PM. The car was running hotter than normal,about 190 deg. The 5 day trip out and in the mountains it ran like a Swiss watch. What happened?? Bob New Bern N.C.

08-19-2015, 02:38 PM	#2
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Will not run at low speed I'm wondering why the cap broke. If for some reason the rotor contacted it and caused it to break, then I'd look for bad bushing and if the cam slipped and turned throwing off the timing. Maybe the rotor and 'new' cap are bad also.

08-19-2015, 02:59 PM	#3
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Will not run at low speed maybe your rotor shifted try resetting the timing

08-19-2015, 03:05 PM	#4
carolinamudwalker Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 45	Re: Will not run at low speed My mistake, the rotor came apart and there was a lot of brass chips in the body. I am thinking a timing problem but why would it run ok at 45 to 50 mph?

08-19-2015, 03:08 PM	#5
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Will not run at low speed because your already up to speed.. also check the points , gap and the lower plate wire.. maybe pieces got down in the dist and or dist play in the shaft Last edited by Mitch//pa; 08-19-2015 at 03:19 PM.

08-19-2015, 03:10 PM	#6
Tiny Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Redding Cal Posts: 1,388	Re: Will not run at low speed Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) What caused the rotor to come apart? Sounds like its time to rebuild that distributor. Bushings and shaft sound worn allowing the rotor to contact the body. Maybe at high speed it "centers" its self and at idle it flops around? __________________ Blackwall Panthers Nor Cal chapter

08-19-2015, 03:45 PM	#7
hangarb7 Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: North Versailles, PA Posts: 146	Re: Will not run at low speed That is suspicious about the rotor coming apart, yet it did not happen again. I don't think you mentioned that you replaced the body which could have been damaged if the rotor got caught for a moment when it was disintegrating. My only overheating problem was caused by timing and a loose fan belt and it was causing the engine to overheat and pouring a bottle of water on the carb helped because the gasohol was boiing in the bowl and the sediment filter. I think this is timing related all the way for my two cents. If you are running older points/condenser, then overheating is causing that condenser to break down, too. I haven't had a condenser go bad in five years since I got the timing/hence the engine temps in check. JackD

08-22-2015, 04:54 AM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Will not run at low speed My first thought is fuel boiling at slower speeds where you have less air movement. Have you tried buying only the good gas to see if that helps? Insulating the fuel line and making a heat shield for the carb can also help.