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Old 03-02-2012, 04:41 PM   #1
dullchrome
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Default Blocking Off Heat Risers

Ive heard of guys blocking off their heat risers with pennies for years. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to doing this? I am running dual exhaust on my 48 but it is stock other than that.

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Old 03-02-2012, 04:52 PM   #2
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

Not real good for all weather drive ability... It's to help keep intake air cool, condensed... Cold weather... Not so good, will stumble..
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:57 PM   #3
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

There are both advantages and disadvantages.

Pro - Your exhaust note with duals will be awesome!
Pro - Your carburetor will not boil over anymore.
Pro - Your engine will gain a vary slight raise in horsepower due to a colder intake.
Pro - You will gain bragging rights on your oldtime hotrod modification.

Con - Your exhaust note will be louder.
Con - Your carburetor will need to be choked until your engine is fully warmed up.
Con - High speed driving may tend to burn your center cylinder exhaust valves over a long period time.

If you do it, be sure to use wheatstalk pennies. The new pennies don't have the metalurgy that the old ones had, and may burn out whereas the copper pennies won't.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:58 PM   #4
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

The one advantage I like is the sound it gives a car with dual exhaust. The pennies block the exhaust gasses from crossing over to the other side and equalizing the pressure. An old dirt track racer told me they blocked the heat risers to get a little more power. I guess the thinking was the cooler gas would be more dense and perform better.

Too, with today's alcohol-gasoline it might help prevent the gas from boiling in the carb.

Just my thoughts...

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Old 03-02-2012, 05:08 PM   #5
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

Provided you slathered all the surfaces of your intake gasket, manifold and block with grease, you can also slip copper or steel shimstock in (out) to block(unblock) the holes just by loosening & tightening the manifold bolts. Gaskets are usually resilient enough to seal OK.

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Old 03-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #6
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Wolf View Post
Not real good for all weather drive ability... It's to help keep intake air cool, condensed... Cold weather... Not so good, will stumble..
Karl.
Since I live in Southern California and we really dont have much weather change to speek of do you think it would be an issue to block them off?
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:11 PM   #7
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

I used oil can tin back in the old days to seal heat riser holes on all manner of things including Olds engines.
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:11 PM   #8
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

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Originally Posted by ford38v8 View Post
There are both advantages and disadvantages.

Pro - Your exhaust note with duals will be awesome!
Pro - Your carburetor will not boil over anymore.
Pro - Your engine will gain a vary slight raise in horsepower due to a colder intake.
Pro - You will gain bragging rights on your oldtime hotrod modification.

Con - Your exhaust note will be louder.
Con - Your carburetor will need to be choked until your engine is fully warmed up.
Con - High speed driving may tend to burn your center cylinder exhaust valves over a long period time.

If you do it, be sure to use wheatstalk pennies. The new pennies don't have the metalurgy that the old ones had, and may burn out whereas the copper pennies won't.
This may sound stupid but do you just shove the pennies into the riser ports? What holds them in place?
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:45 PM   #9
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

The pennies need to be tapped in with a ball peen hammer. I was talking with Walt Dupont today, and he told me that he had done this with a dragster engine and had blown the pennies right out the exhaust. (He couldn't tell me if they had been the wheatstalk or not). He later just used expansion plugs to do the same thing.
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:03 PM   #10
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

Since I live in Southern California and we really dont have much weather change to speek of do you think it would be an issue to block them off?

I see no big difference in warm up here in West Virginia, but then I never run it in the winter time.

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Old 03-02-2012, 07:46 PM   #11
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

I just blocked mine a few weeks ago. I used .020 SS 1 1/8"X 1 1/2". Bent a tab up 3/8" on the 1 1/2" side to hold it when sliding in place. Punched a 1/4" hole in the center 5/8" from the other end. Loosen the intake bolts and slide them in centering on the heat riser humps. Tighten the bolts and your done. This will provide some heat and not completely block it. This along with a 1/2" vented phonolic spacer and longer studs from Bob Shewman [email protected] will completely solve the gas boiling in the carb. I just installed one of Bobs spacers. Before the heat riser block and the spacer the heat on the manifold where the carb mounts was 157 degrees + and the base of the carb the same. After the heat riser mod and the spacer today when it was 85 degrees out after close to 2 hours of driving the manifold away from the carb area before was 157, at the base where the carb mounts and 140 today which is a 17 degree drop. The big differance is the carb base above the spacer 107 and bowl of the carb where the fuel is stored was 115. The gas is heated in the fuel pump from the 157degrees of the intake manifold 3/4" below the fuel pump to 122 degrees and loses a little heat from the cooler gas flowing through the pump from the tank. The longer it sits at idle or slow speed the more the gas in the pump is heated. I'm rising the fuel pump next week with a 1" phonolic spacer and a longer push rod I started making today. Threaded the push rod 3/8-24 1 3/8" long, 1/2" hex steel drilled 1 1/16" deep and tapped 3/8-24. Turned the hex beyond internaly threaded area down to 3/8" OD like the push rod. Will screw a 3/8 24 jamb nut on the threaded push rod then the new hex part. and with a little locktite, adjust the push rod to the length I want and lock it in place with the jamb nut. Now I will be able to adjust the pump pressure if require. I'm pretty sure this will take care of the heat on the pump which is maybe the biggest problem. If you ever saw the gas boil in the glass bowl this is what its from. Just a few bubbles in the bowl leads to lower pump pressure that pulsates. Also you can see the pump pressure drop as the pump gets hotter. G.M.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:29 PM   #12
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I don't mean to sound like a nincompoop but where on the flat head are the heat risers located. Dose anyone have a picture so I could see what you all are talking about. This is my first flat head and am in the learning process.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:12 PM   #13
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

You'd be a nincompoop if you casually nodded your head without understanding. I don't have a picture to show you, so I'll try to describe it for you with words.

The top surface of the block where the manifold bolts to has a hole exact middle on each side the same size as a penny. These holes pass directly into the center exhaust dumps of the block. The manifold has corresponding holes, with the passage from each meeting at the top of the manifold, directly under the carburetor base.

Exhaust passes from each side through the riser to the other side, in a back and forth manner, as the firing order dictates. If you know anything about how a muffler works, the effect is the same here, each exhaust pulse helps cancel out the pulse pressures of the opposite side, and consequently reduces noise as well as excess heat and backflow at the twin ports next to the exhausting ports.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:14 PM   #14
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

under the intake manifold on both sides are two exhaust outlets which combined with the holes in the intake form a passage under the carb but within the manifold that allow exhaust gases to heat the intake thus heating the carb-ever notice paint seems to burn off the intake under the carb??
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:11 AM   #15
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

What is this and does it have anything to do with what you are talking about? It comes from some old original sales promotional literature for the Sedan Delivery. I always wondered what it was. I've not seen one on my engine but is promoted as standard equiment. Anybody know?
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:26 AM   #16
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Here's some more about it. Don't any of our engines have this any more? If not, why not? Sounds like it would solve the problem you all have been talking about and give all the pros of both options? This is from the Passenger Car Sales Handbook:
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:21 AM   #17
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Thanks for the explaining this to me. This is some I'm interested in because last summer on several occasions my car would start spitting and sputtering and eventually die out on me. Let it set for a while and it would start and away we would go till the next time. This some thing I'm going to try and see how it works. Like I said this is my first flat head and I need to learn the tricks of the trade.
Thanks again.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:29 AM   #18
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

bige386 This is what you and all flathead owners are going to face with the new gas mixtures in temperatures above the area of 80 degrees. I explained how to partial block the heat risers above. This will give a little relief but for complete cooling of the carb Bob Shewmans 1/2" vented spacer cools the base of the carb as shown in my temperature report also above. There are also problems of the gas heating in the line and pump also in the above post. If you have a glass filter bowl on the pump and you see bubbles in the gas your getting ready for vapor lock. These vapors and heat in the pump also cause the fuel pressure to drop and the pump not provideing enough fuel. These problems start with stop and go traffic, long periods of idle and heat build up after the engine is shut down. When you stop in hot weather lift the hood right away to allow the heat to excape. Buy a laser pointed thermometer and check the temperatures on the base of the carb. the area on the carb where the fuel bowl is, the fuel line where it is clamped to the fire wall and the pump it self. When any of these get in the 120 range the problem is just starting or all ready there. G.M.
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:27 AM   #19
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

There are two factors at work with the heat risers on any engine...
Stock, or near stock engines love the heat risers, the fuel is properly pre-heated for complete vaporization..
Speed freaks love to block/eliminate the heat risers because the exhaust makes more noise, which givers the impression of more power.
In the real world, elimination of the heat riser will make an engine run rich.
When I was young and foolish we would block off the heat riser ports in a Ford flat-head by sliding a piece of shim stock or thin metal from a pipe tabacco can between the intake gasket and the block... When the weather cooled, or we were tired of the added noise of the pipes, we would loosen the manifold bolts, with-draw the metal and re-tighten the bolts.
The whole subject boils down to.... do you want reliability or do you want noise?
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:47 AM   #20
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

This isn't a question of noise. The reliability applies because if this new gas gets to hot it boils in the carb. Read my temperatures in warm weather and you will find out what I'm talking about. This isn't guess work or what I think will happen as most of the posts, these are actual temperature readings and visual veiwings of the gas boiling over the top of the carb, bubbles in the fuel bowl and pressure drops on a fuel pressure gauge. These are real facts with this new gas in warm weather and can be corrected. G.M.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:37 PM   #21
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Ive had gas boil in the carb on my model A in hot weather when ive stopped to gas up.The engine will heat soak & run crappy for a few minutes until it gets the cooler gas from the tank.Years ago,before ethenol this would never happen,even if it was 110* in the shade.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:51 AM   #22
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

columbia, Two things, 1 you are not pumping the gas it is gravity feed so there is no vapor lock in the pump. 2 the A has an up draft carb and the gas is not flooding the engine when it boils over. You did point out the differance in the old gas not doing this. I never had vapor lock that I was aware of before this new gas came along. This boiling of the new gas does not happen I'm going guess at below out side temperatures of about 75 degrees. Even above 75 and even up in the 90s it may not show as a problem. You can drive in 90 degree temps on the open road and not get into much stop and go traffic, stop the car and get out for an hour or so and it may be slighty harder to start than normal but you would never know you were on the boarder line of vapor lock in the pump and boiling over in the carb. As the weather warms up a NUMBER of people taking laser thermometer readings of the fuel boil of the carb and the fuel pump will define the problem areas. One person like myself providing ALL the info doesn't prove a consistant over all problem. G.M.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:34 AM   #23
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Default Re: Blocking Off heat Risers

Quote:
Originally Posted by ford38v8 View Post
There are both advantages and disadvantages.

Pro - Your exhaust note with duals will be awesome!
Pro - Your carburetor will not boil over anymore.
Pro - Your engine will gain a vary slight raise in horsepower due to a colder intake.
Pro - You will gain bragging rights on your oldtime hotrod modification.

Con - Your exhaust note will be louder.
Con - Your carburetor will need to be choked until your engine is fully warmed up.
Con - High speed driving may tend to burn your center cylinder exhaust valves over a long period time.

If you do it, be sure to use wheatstalk pennies. The new pennies don't have the metalurgy that the old ones had, and may burn out whereas the copper pennies won't.
Would this be something that happens over an extended period of time or something that could happen on a single freeway run around town?
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:57 AM   #24
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I received a big dose of modern automotive engineering last week...
I have a '49 Olds 88 that has been sitting under cover for a few years awaiting the time to restore it.. The time has finally came.
I want to keep the car all Old's, however, I want to improve the 60+ year old engine so it will run on modern fuels and be able to cruise the highways like the one I had in '54-55 did..
We all know that the unleaded fuels are not friendly to the valves and seats in the pre 73 engines, so a major rebuild of the heads was going to be in order.. The more I checked into the engine, the more I found that I had a real problem with an out of date antique..
Talking with Old's people I found out that as long as I used an Old's engine and did not increase the HP more than 20%, the car would still be classified as being a stock Old's. This bit of news meant that I could use a more modern 350 CID Old's engine.
I bought a 350 engine and started the rebuilding wheels turning..
In short order I found out that the heads were a problem.. Being emission heads they had some bad features which could be overcome for $1,200. It was then suggested That I consider using aftermarket aluminum heads.. @ $1,400 for the pair complete with valves etc... Why use the aluminum heads?
The aluminum heads are engineered for today's fuels, redesigned chambers and NO HEAT RISERS.. Hmmmm?... It was then explained to me that it has been found that a cooler charge of fuel provides for better combustion... The use of heat risers in the heads caused the center ports to be hot, where-as the end ports where cooler, in other works uneven fuel/air ratios..
It was also explained to me that with good driving habits the engine would give me fuel mileage of 15-18 mpg in the city... 20-25 mpg on the highway with an OD trans and good gearing.. I was hooked.
I would guess that inline engines might be a different story since the carb is hanging out in space.. But maybe not.
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:41 PM   #25
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Quote:
Originally Posted by blucar View Post
I received a big dose of modern automotive engineering last week...
I have a '49 Olds 88 that has been sitting under cover for a few years awaiting the time to restore it.. The time has finally came.
I want to keep the car all Old's, however, I want to improve the 60+ year old engine so it will run on modern fuels and be able to cruise the highways like the one I had in '54-55 did..
We all know that the unleaded fuels are not friendly to the valves and seats in the pre 73 engines, so a major rebuild of the heads was going to be in order.. The more I checked into the engine, the more I found that I had a real problem with an out of date antique..
Talking with Old's people I found out that as long as I used an Old's engine and did not increase the HP more than 20%, the car would still be classified as being a stock Old's. This bit of news meant that I could use a more modern 350 CID Old's engine.
I bought a 350 engine and started the rebuilding wheels turning..
In short order I found out that the heads were a problem.. Being emission heads they had some bad features which could be overcome for $1,200. It was then suggested That I consider using aftermarket aluminum heads.. @ $1,400 for the pair complete with valves etc... Why use the aluminum heads?
The aluminum heads are engineered for today's fuels, redesigned chambers and NO HEAT RISERS.. Hmmmm?... It was then explained to me that it has been found that a cooler charge of fuel provides for better combustion... The use of heat risers in the heads caused the center ports to be hot, where-as the end ports where cooler, in other works uneven fuel/air ratios..
It was also explained to me that with good driving habits the engine would give me fuel mileage of 15-18 mpg in the city... 20-25 mpg on the highway with an OD trans and good gearing.. I was hooked.
I would guess that inline engines might be a different story since the carb is hanging out in space.. But maybe not.
I never knew you could install a 30 year newer engine and still call your car stock. I think I'll put a 1960 engine with aluminum heads in my A and convince the guys on the Barn that it is still stock
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:43 PM   #26
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

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Quote:
Originally Posted by blucar View Post
I received a big dose of modern automotive engineering last week...
I have a '49 Olds 88 that has been sitting under cover for a few years awaiting the time to restore it.. The time has finally came.
I want to keep the car all Old's, however, I want to improve the 60+ year old engine so it will run on modern fuels and be able to cruise the highways like the one I had in '54-55 did..
We all know that the unleaded fuels are not friendly to the valves and seats in the pre 73 engines, so a major rebuild of the heads was going to be in order.. The more I checked into the engine, the more I found that I had a real problem with an out of date antique..
Talking with Old's people I found out that as long as I used an Old's engine and did not increase the HP more than 20%, the car would still be classified as being a stock Old's. This bit of news meant that I could use a more modern 350 CID Old's engine.
I bought a 350 engine and started the rebuilding wheels turning..
In short order I found out that the heads were a problem.. Being emission heads they had some bad features which could be overcome for $1,200. It was then suggested That I consider using aftermarket aluminum heads.. @ $1,400 for the pair complete with valves etc... Why use the aluminum heads?
The aluminum heads are engineered for today's fuels, redesigned chambers and NO HEAT RISERS.. Hmmmm?... It was then explained to me that it has been found that a cooler charge of fuel provides for better combustion... The use of heat risers in the heads caused the center ports to be hot, where-as the end ports where cooler, in other works uneven fuel/air ratios..
It was also explained to me that with good driving habits the engine would give me fuel mileage of 15-18 mpg in the city... 20-25 mpg on the highway with an OD trans and good gearing.. I was hooked.
I would guess that inline engines might be a different story since the carb is hanging out in space.. But maybe not.
I think a lot of these people doing the explaining need some explaining.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:59 PM   #27
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

"Con - High speed driving may tend to burn your center cylinder exhaust valves over a long period time."

"Would this be something that happens over an extended period of time or something that could happen on a single freeway run around town?"

Dullchrome, I think this would apply more to high RPM driving than to normal driving. There are aftermarket exhaust dividers that can be installed in the center port to improve flow and help prevent the effect (push-pull) each port has on its twin, but again, this is something that is done on highly modified engines, and wouldn't normally provide an advantage for the street engine.

A compromise has been suggested by GM, to drill a small hole in the heat riser block-off coins, to allow a much reduced volume of hot gas to cross over. With the extremely high volatility of ethanol/gasoline, these old time modifications become much more than making your exhaust sound better. Modern systems having computerized fuel injection can deal with the cruddy gas, but our old tech cars have much difficulty.
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:00 AM   #28
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Quote:
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I never knew you could install a 30 year newer engine and still call your car stock. I think I'll put a 1960 engine with aluminum heads in my A and convince the guys on the Barn that it is still stock
I think what a person has to keep in mind is that comparing a Model A or an Early V8 Ford to a '49 Old's 88 is like comparing apples to banana's..
If the Old's people want to consider a later model Old's engine in an earlier car, to qualify as stock, that is their business... Far be it from me to second guess them..
In the same vane, since it has been documented that Ford stopped using hardened valve seats in the 8BA-8CM engines.... So, if a person updates the engine with hardened seats and stainless valves, the engine is no longer stock.
I guess that the fact that the Early V8 people now recognize the Columbia OD to be a stock application, falls into about the same category...
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:17 PM   #29
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Well its been some time now. I have tried a couple different materials with short term success. First I trimmed a piece out of a aluminum can which only lasted for a short trip down the freeway before blowing out. The same happened with a piece from and older oil can. Now I am running a piece of 22 gauge stainless that seems to be holding up well.

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Old 04-23-2013, 06:40 PM   #30
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I've thought for some time that stainless steel would be the way to go. Thanks for informing us on the results of your tests. Did you use shim stock or, if not, what was the source of the stainless (I want to get some)? Thanks and good luck!
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:32 PM   #31
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I've thought for some time that stainless steel would be the way to go. Thanks for informing us on the results of your tests. Did you use shim stock or, if not, what was the source of the stainless (I want to get some)? Thanks and good luck!
I got mine out of the remnants section of a local metal warehouse, IMS(Industrial Metal Supply), cost me a whopping three dollars.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:55 AM   #32
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

What was the problem with the '49 Olds motor? Can't get parts?
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:42 AM   #33
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

On the Ford...Southern California is probably best place for blocked risers; you'll never be drowning your car with the choke on an icy morning!
All effects, good and potential bad, will be considerably less with a stock iron manifold than with aluminum.
Partial blockage...on later carbureted SBC's, some had iron and some aluminum manifolds. Heat was used for waring manifold, of course, but also served a stove for choke tube on some. Gasket sets for aluminum came with shim stock partial blockoffs...I think exhaust hole on these was circa 1/4" from memory.
Olds guy...you are being sold a CROCK. Your engine will run fine completely stock on unleaded with any random modern oil you find, though I would think about the oil issues IF putting a new cam and lifters in there.
Your problem areas, if you have any, will be limited to rubber carb parts (Try adapting accel pump cap from a late Rochester or such...there are specialists to help!) and fuel pump diaphragm, MAYBE. On the fuel pump IF you have probs, throw in an electric modern one and forgetaboutit.
New engine, hardened valve seats, oil no good for old engines, gotta have super-duper heads: CROCK. Put your wallet back in your pocket and RUN from that mechanic!
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:32 AM   #34
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Old Henry...don't see pictures, but I think you are are talking about a heat valve on the crossover pipe on a 59A?? These took two forms, one with a coil and counterweight visible right below L exhaust manifold, the other a crazy duckbill one that hid inside the pipe. These block the crossover that connects bot manifolds to the muffler and so force exhaust to flow through the intake manifold crossover until exhaust heats up. It is rare to find them intact and functional on '46-8 Fords.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:50 PM   #35
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I have a lifter starting to get loud in my `51 F1. It probably doesn't have 300 miles on the rebuild. Not sure if I'll use Red Locktite or stake the threads, but rest assured when the intake manifold comes off I'll be two wheat straws poorer when it goes back on. The Smithy's are just too quiet. My 2 cents worth.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:37 AM   #36
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

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What was the problem with the '49 Olds motor? Can't get parts?
The '49 olds V8 was a great engine in it's day.. In an 88 chassis car it would run off and hide from anything on the road, Chrysler Hemi's included.. The key words to my statement are "IN It's Day")... The engineering that went into the Rocket engines is now over sixty years old...
It is very true that there are hot-shot mechanics out there that will tell you they can buildup the old engines to handle unleaded, etc., the one thing they can't do is improve the metalurgy and lower the weight issues that the old engine/transmissions have.
The difference between a '49/50 Olds 303 V8 with a Hydromatic trans and a 350/403 Olds V8 w/TH350/200R4 trans is 550 lbs... A significant weight savings in my book.. Adding in the modern engineering/metalurgy, and the engine swap is a no brainer...
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #37
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I guess I'm too old fashioned.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:59 PM   #38
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I think these are the holes (in the black squares) you are blocking off along with the corresponding holes in the intake
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:55 PM   #39
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I think these are the holes (in the black squares) you are blocking off along with the corresponding holes in the intake
Yep, those are them, and seeing your manifold pic reminds me of a friend's '36 with aluminum manifold: His manifold passageway (riser) burned through, scrapping an otherwise show condition manifold.

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:39 PM   #40
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Pennies go in the intake or the block?
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:22 PM   #41
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Pennies go in the intake or the block?
They go in the block. You may have to flatten (stretch) the pennies a little. I didn't have to do that in my younger days. The newer pennies may be a skosh smaller, but you want to use the older pennies anyway..
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:58 AM   #42
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Update....did mine this morning. Went the block off plate (.025) method. The first thing you realize is that it is a lot easier to install the passenger side plate (less around the base). The driver’s side has a lot more stuff that get in the way of loosening the bolts (breather pipe, choke, oil filter and fuel pump). OK so the real reason that I did this was for the sound, I got tired of it being so quite...I love the flathead sound and I wasn't getting it! Then there is the issue of doing it on a brisk Colorado morning (36 degrees). When I finished I started it up and it ran like crap, you would have thought I pulled half the plug wires off. As the engine got warmer and the ambient tempature got up to 40 degrees (high today is to be 51), it began to smooth out. When the engine temp got to 160 I was good to go. The sound at idle is awesome!!!! And my wife said as I pulled out of the drive way she could really notice the difference. Bottom line it took about 45 minutes to install the two plates. As to the increased noise, my car is a convertible the overall noise from the sounds through the convertible top will overpower it anyway. I can't wait for a nice day - 50 degrees (most of the snow is gone for now and the roads are dry - remember I am at 8300 ft.)- and the top will go down and then I will be able to hear her in all her glory.....and there there is that issue of a cooler carb. Pulled the plugs and so far I am not noticing any increase in running richer.Thanks guys for this posting.

PS: I do have duals on the car.

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Old 05-05-2013, 12:49 PM   #43
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I have a lifter starting to get loud in my `51 F1. It probably doesn't have 300 miles on the rebuild. Not sure if I'll use Red Locktite or stake the threads, but rest assured when the intake manifold comes off I'll be two wheat straws poorer when it goes back on. The Smithy's are just too quiet. My 2 cents worth.


Now thats funny!
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:57 PM   #44
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Well its been approx. six or seven hundred miles now with the heat risers blocked off. There really hasn't been any difference in my warm up or drivability but keep in mind that I live about four feet above sea level in Southern California. The exhaust note sounds much more akin to a flatty with duals as far as I'm concerned. I've even had a few older fellas approach me and say " sounds like you blocked your heat riser." With that being said I am very happy with the results so far.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:03 PM   #45
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Man I've wanted to do this for a long time...My Dad used to tell me that the year of the penny had to match the year of the car...My question is? What if I block off the heat risers and install streight pipes too?? Will my neibhors hate me? lol
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:20 PM   #46
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Yes you neighbours will hate you..! I have 1 3/4" straight pipes and its loud. I havent checked to see if the heat risers have been blocked, I'd hate to be near it if they wheren't....
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:29 PM   #47
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Merc Cruiser, just wait until you get in town and hear the echo from the buildings~Sweet!
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:30 PM   #48
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

[QUOTE=Rand;645999]Man I've wanted to do this for a long time...My Dad used to tell me that the year of the penny had to match the year of the car.

I never heard that before but the pennies always should go in heads up for good luck!
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:28 PM   #49
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I forgot to add something funny: There is a family halfway down our short street and they have two young boys, as soon as I come around the corner the youngest always puts his hands over his ears with a very serious look on his face...
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:41 AM   #50
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Follow up question....first let me say I do love the new sound of the exhaust. Has anyone found any issues with blocking off the heat risers, other than the ruff idle at startup when cold and as one post stated runs richer?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:20 PM   #51
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Ive got close to one thousand miles on since blocking them off with no issues. So far so good!
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:18 AM   #52
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Is is really necessary to block both sides? I was thinking I could accomplish the same thing by blocking only one side with a shim.

If you block one--- you've stopped the bypass.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:31 AM   #53
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

I did block off both sides. Did you notice any change in performance or idle after the car is up to temperature? Do your plugs seem to be burning the same?


I am trying a few test runs with different air cleaners. I have an original air bath that I converted to a K&N insert and I also have an original air bath without modifications. Also testing with different air temps: 40 degrees vs. 80 degrees

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Old 05-24-2013, 11:43 AM   #54
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

Before and after temperatures...sorry for the blurry shots of the temp gun but digital cameras are not too good for depth of field...but I think you get the "picture". Car up to the same running temp:180

Just might resolve some of the issues on those hot days
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:11 PM   #55
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Before and after temperatures...sorry for the blurry shots of the temp gun but digital cameras are not too good for depth of field...but I think you get the "picture". Car up to the same running temp:180

Just might resolve some of the issues on those hot days
Temps look good. Hows she been running?
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #56
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Default Re: Blocking Off Heat Risers

It has been runing great and love the flathead music! Recently I was told the gas mileage would be worse, it was explained that blocking off the heatrisers would result in un-burnt gas, with the possible result of washing the cylinder walls. With that in mind I took the car to the local state of Colorado emissions station and had the car checked, here are the results. All passed but the idel and that was fixed with a half a turn in on the screw. By the way the test was only $15.00 and the testing stations are easily assessable during the week....no need to invest in all
that equipment if you tax dollars already paid for it!
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