The Ford Barn

Werner · 01-17-2020, 01:55 PM

Hallo Ranchero,

are you sure that the correct screw length has been installed? The rubber intermediate layers must not be squeezed because then the springy comfort cannot swing.

The 3 sleeves should prevent too much compression.

The required tightening force was very low, I estimate the torque at 2 m / kp.

The other picture shows the protruding screw ends and the soft rubber plate in more details. -

At Katy: You are sure to be on the right place?

Russ/40 · 01-17-2020, 02:42 PM

Since the discussion continues, I should add, you can experiment with how tight the tubular inserts are clamped, but in my experience I could not get any difference in vibration if tightly clamped or if some movement is allowed.

Werner · 01-17-2020, 03:03 PM

Guten Abend Russ,

you are right. Because there ist only a swinging way about 1/10", there is not a big feelin' different. But if the rubbers are too much pressed, the swinging moves destroy the rubbers.

katy · 01-18-2020, 12:22 PM

This nut:

Werner · 02-01-2020, 10:23 PM

Hallihallo, the engine is finally installed again. Hearty toil!

40 Deluxe · 02-02-2020, 01:15 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Considering all the problems with this engine, maybe you should keep an eye out for a German B engine or a Russian GAZ as a future replacement.

Sunnybrook Farm · 02-02-2020, 02:27 PM

The block is cast iron, welding may not work very well on that metal. They have done stitching on the block since the cars were new. It doesn't involve welding the metal but instead boring holes and screwing in studs then boring and screwing in more that overlap the first ones. It amounts to filling the crack with new metal. There are videos on youtube showing the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk

There is another series of videos of a shop repairing a model A block that it cracked from the cylinder to the valve seat but it doesn't sound like that is your problem. A machine shop should know all about it.

ryanheacox · 02-02-2020, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Considering all the problems with this engine, maybe you should keep an eye out for a German B engine or a Russian GAZ as a future replacement.

I never thought of that. A G28T would be a huge improvement. Wonder how easy one would be to find?

Werner · 02-03-2020, 05:01 AM

Sorry, picture mistake. Don'n know how to remove.

Werner · 02-03-2020, 05:06 AM

Guten Morgen!

The uncertainty of the risk of breakage of a welded cast ingot bares naturally also in me.

But in Germany there are not really spare parts for Model A or B. Some dealers offer few parts that they buy in the USA. I can do that by myself.

Of course I'm looking for a replacement engine!

Please, what is a G28T engine type?

ryanheacox · 02-03-2020, 07:46 AM

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/1948kolnLKWparts.htm

There are other links at the bottom of that page with more info as well.

The G28T was essentially an improved Model B engine but with some significant improvements like insert bearings and full pressure oiling.

Werner · 02-21-2020, 03:17 PM

Hallihallo!

Many days, many hours of work. Today the removed engine was running again for the first time. Nice day!

Russ/40 · 02-21-2020, 05:24 PM

Looks good, nice job, any leaks?

Werner · 02-22-2020, 10:33 AM

Hallo Russ!
It looks good! But I only drove 1/2 mile. Without a seat, without the hood, no headlights, no license plate. Our policemen are not amused by something like that ...

katy · 02-22-2020, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Werner

Hallo Russ!
It looks good! But I only drove 1/2 mile. Without a seat, without the hood, no headlights, no license plate. Our policemen are not amused by something like that ...

Our police are not overly impressed by something like that either.

Although it does look good.

BTW, what make/model are those spark plugs?

Werner · 02-22-2020, 01:47 PM

Guten Abend Ken.
That's modern iridium spark plugs with adapters. NGK BPR 5 EiX. Best for cold start idle and a little bit less consumption.

katy · 02-23-2020, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Werner

Guten Abend Ken.
That's modern iridium spark plugs with adapters. NGK BPR 5 EiX. Best for cold start idle and a little bit less consumption.

Sounds good, thanks, Ken

Werner · 03-01-2020, 04:23 PM

Very good evening at all together!

Now 10 miles test drive today. (Still without seats.) Everything's fine. The 2nd gear no longer howls. The tautly manual transmission is tight. Also the cardan / universal gear. No leakage at the front of the crankshaft. And no more water in the oil!

A lot of work, but also a lot of joy.

I would like to thank all the advisers again, otherwise the work would not have been so perfect.

01-17-2020, 02:42 PM	#42
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Since the discussion continues, I should add, you can experiment with how tight the tubular inserts are clamped, but in my experience I could not get any difference in vibration if tightly clamped or if some movement is allowed.

01-17-2020, 03:03 PM	#43
Werner Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Germany, near Aachen Posts: 1,153	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Guten Abend Russ, you are right. Because there ist only a swinging way about 1/10", there is not a big feelin' different. But if the rubbers are too much pressed, the swinging moves destroy the rubbers. __________________ Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version

02-02-2020, 01:15 PM	#46
40 Deluxe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: now Kuna, Idaho Posts: 3,778	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Considering all the problems with this engine, maybe you should keep an eye out for a German B engine or a Russian GAZ as a future replacement.

02-02-2020, 02:27 PM	#47
Sunnybrook Farm Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Virginia Posts: 409	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? The block is cast iron, welding may not work very well on that metal. They have done stitching on the block since the cars were new. It doesn't involve welding the metal but instead boring holes and screwing in studs then boring and screwing in more that overlap the first ones. It amounts to filling the crack with new metal. There are videos on youtube showing the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk There is another series of videos of a shop repairing a model A block that it cracked from the cylinder to the valve seat but it doesn't sound like that is your problem. A machine shop should know all about it.

02-03-2020, 05:06 AM	#50
Werner Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Germany, near Aachen Posts: 1,153	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Guten Morgen! The uncertainty of the risk of breakage of a welded cast ingot bares naturally also in me. But in Germany there are not really spare parts for Model A or B. Some dealers offer few parts that they buy in the USA. I can do that by myself. Of course I'm looking for a replacement engine! Please, what is a G28T engine type? __________________ Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version

02-03-2020, 07:46 AM	#51
ryanheacox Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Northwest CT Posts: 1,092	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/1948kolnLKWparts.htm There are other links at the bottom of that page with more info as well. The G28T was essentially an improved Model B engine but with some significant improvements like insert bearings and full pressure oiling.

02-21-2020, 05:24 PM	#53
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Looks good, nice job, any leaks?

02-22-2020, 10:33 AM	#54
Werner Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Germany, near Aachen Posts: 1,153	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Hallo Russ! It looks good! But I only drove 1/2 mile. Without a seat, without the hood, no headlights, no license plate. Our policemen are not amused by something like that ... __________________ Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version

02-22-2020, 01:47 PM	#56
Werner Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Germany, near Aachen Posts: 1,153	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Guten Abend Ken. That's modern iridium spark plugs with adapters. NGK BPR 5 EiX. Best for cold start idle and a little bit less consumption. __________________ Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version

03-01-2020, 04:23 PM	#58
Werner Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Germany, near Aachen Posts: 1,153	Re: Removed engine; some improvements? Very good evening at all together! Now 10 miles test drive today. (Still without seats.) Everything's fine. The 2nd gear no longer howls. The tautly manual transmission is tight. Also the cardan / universal gear. No leakage at the front of the crankshaft. And no more water in the oil! A lot of work, but also a lot of joy. I would like to thank all the advisers again, otherwise the work would not have been so perfect. __________________ Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version