55,56, Sedan Delivery Part Numbers

[LD-Ordie]

So, I'm working on a 55 Courier, and there currently a few items I need that are unique to the Courier, primarily hardware in the rear door assembly that I feel I would have better luck finding with the correct part numbers. I recently purchased the 49-59 Illustrations and Text manuals, copyright 1964. But it's very disappointing to discover that the amount of information on the 55 and 56, is a joke. So this information needs to be out there somewhere. Can anyone offer any assistance to a source?

Thanks to all in advance,
Jimmy

[KULTULZ]

Regarding the period MPC, much info was deleted as parts became unavailable, i.e., if FORD saw low sales they would discontinue the parts.

You need a 1955 FORD CHASSIS and/or body CATALOG to find the deleted information from the MPC.

1952-55 LINC shown below. You can usually find them on EvilBay.

[LD-Ordie]

That's a great start!! Thanks so much for the info! Cheers!

[Daves55Sedan]

Not sure what it would do to know part numbers of the rear door spring-loaded catch mechanism. You wont find any of those parts anywhere, unless you run across a very rare offering on Epay.
They only made about 13,000 Couriers in '55. The '55 Crown Vic is considered a rare classic, yet they made about 33,000 of them in '55, nearly three times more than the Couriers. They are pretty much all gone.


In my view, all you can do is weld your old mechanism back together, lube it up good and hope it holds. I sandblasted, cleaned and welded the one in my '55 Courier back in 1998. It worked great for the next 18 years then broke again. That spring is too heavy for the housing, but if you had a lighter spring, it wouldn't be enough to counterweigh the door in the open position. This spring, I will remove mine again and see if I can weld it back together again.

[56sedandelivery]

I guess someone removed the spring on mine as the door does not stay open very good. Slightest breeze will blow it shut. Also the inner door as some point has been opened up and rewelded.

[LD-Ordie]

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thanks guys, your input is appreciated! So my real issue is the latch mechanism. There is some slop in the internal gears that allows about 1/8 movement in the door when it's closed and the striker is adjusted correctly. Might be getting annal in my old age...... The door opens, closes and stays open as it should, and I work it like it's on it's last leg. I realize this is a super rare vehicle, and I treat it as such. So I did find a dated 1955 chassis manual that should have the info i'm hoping to find. So, the info I have found on production numbers on a 55 Courier is less than 8000. With 56 being just over

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

So I did find a dated 1955 chassis manual that should have the info i'm hoping to find.

The PARTS CATALOGS issued for a particular year or a combination of years is two part, CHASSIS and BODY. You most likely need the BODY SECTION for gate info.

[LD-Ordie]

So here the manuals I found, hoping they have the info i want. They were not a lot of money and appear to be in good condition.

[LD-Ordie]

So I do realize the best chance of finding rare old stuff is either by spending a ton of $$$ from a professional, or by stumbling onto to stuff by chance. I prefer the latter. So last Oct, I attended Gene Winfields open house outside of Mojave CA. I met a gentleman who claimed to have a couple of 56 Couriers and invited to come look. He did along with 50+ years of other treasures. One body is very straight, the other has rust issues. Not sure about all the other parts associated. Also had 2 Ranch Wagons, sedans and a couple of Canadian models. A fun afternoon was had crawling around it all and I did find a couple of items I needed. These kind of finds will not be around forever.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

So here the manuals I found, hoping they have the info i want. They were not a lot of money and appear to be in good condition.

You got it!

The STANDARD HDWRE CATALOG is also a nice touch.

[56sedandelivery]

Looks like that one in the middle has disc brakes on it. That would be a good conversion is so.

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by 56sedandelivery

Looks like that one in the middle has disc brakes on it. That would be a good conversion is so.

Yes it does, mine has also been converted

[LD-Ordie]

So before I start a new thread, can anyone here tell me how to remove the lock cylinder from the rear door handle. I have a new cylinder, with no key for the original one installed. Thanks!

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

So my real issue is the latch mechanism. There is some slop in the internal gears that allows about 1/8 movement in the door when it's closed and the striker is adjusted correctly.

There are a number of factors which can cause the slop in the door latching.
1) Teeth on the striker plate are worn down, or striker plate is not adjusted correctly.
2) Door gasket has worn down (or missing) and no longer furnishes the proper amount of pressure between the door and it's jamb.
3) The star wheel in the latch mechanism inside the door rotates on a shaft that may be worn down or loose.
4) The giant spring inside the door "hold-open" mechanism has busted loose from it's housing (housing is broken). Believe it or not, that spring has such force that it pushes outward on the door when attempting to close the door. When the door is latched, the giant spring applied outward force, and in combination with the door gasket provides pressure between the door and jamb. If that spring force is lost, and or the gasket is insufficient, the door will absolutely bounce up and down about 1/8 inch when the door is closed and latched properly.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

So before I start a new thread, can anyone here tell me how to remove the lock cylinder from the rear door handle. I have a new cylinder, with no key for the original one installed. Thanks!

I had mine all apart and removed the lock cylinder about 20 years ago, but don't remember much about the mechanism. I didn't have the key for my lock cylinder either, so you don't need the key to get it out. I had removed the entire door handle assembly and guts and held them in my hand. As I recall it was easy to figure out how to remove the cylinder just by looking at it. It didn't give me any trouble.
But I hated to have a different key that did not fit the glove compartment lock. I still don't have the key to the glovebox lock either.
But that back door lock is essential when you are making trips to several different discount grocers. I throw my groceries in the back door and lock it each stop I make. That way nobody can steal your groceries while you are inside the other store. Can't beat it with a stick.

[LD-Ordie]

[QUOTE=Daves55Sedan;1729955]There are a number of factors which can cause the slop in the door latching.

Thanks Dave for sharing your experience. So after taking some time to study the unit, the problem is inside the latch mechanism. The gear and spring are fine. It has a dog that keeps the gear from turning, thus, securing the door. When the button is pushed, it is pulled back allowing the gear to full turn. When in the closed or latched position, the bottom portion of the dog should rest on the gear, preventing it from moving. In my case, there is about 1/8" space, which allows the gear to turn as much, and the door to move and rattle. Looks like I need to figure out how to take it apart and weld an extension minimizing any movement.

At first, I had the idea of finding a replacement. That was before I realized how difficult the part would be to find.

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I had mine all apart and removed the lock cylinder about 20 years ago, but don't remember much about the mechanism.

Thanks again Dave! My first time with this sort of lock, but it appears to me, the locking cylinder has a small button that fits into a matching hole in the door handle, keeping it in the proper location and preventing it's removal. When a key is inserted and turned just a bit, it allows the pin, or button, to fall into a grove inside the cylinder, removing it from the hole in the handle and allowing the cylinder to be removed from the handle. I personally cannot see any way of removing the cylinder without either a key, or by drilling the lock to allow it to turn enough to release the pin. Looking at the key for the new lock, it appears to have only a few pins and may be easy to pick. Will try that first as I would rather not destroy the lock unless I have too. I hope for next weeks project......

[KULTULZ]

If you have a locking glove box, there should be a key code there. A locksmith can duplicate the key if he has the old charts or he can make a key to fit.

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

If you have a locking glove box, there should be a key code there. A locksmith can duplicate the key if he has the old charts or he can make a key to fit.

That might work in Dave's situation, but all of my locks have been changed. No glove box key, not a big deal, one for door locks, new OEM ignition switch and lock, and soon to be a 3rd key for my rear door. So I can currently lock the rear door, but need to crawl inside to unlock it. A pain!!

[LD-Ordie]

So todays project was to repair the latch mechanism. Wasn't a real big deal, just time consuming hand fitting the new extended dog to match the gear. I was able to remove 100% of the slop, so now the door closes perfect with no shake at all. Next project will be the lock!

So a before and after picture along with my helpers...... Had to take them all for a ride when I finished