Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Model A (1928-31)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-12-2017, 11:20 PM   #1
gitudor1930
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 4
Default 1930 Fordor low compression

Bought a 30 Fordor that did not start, but knew there were some valves sticking. Freed those valves and engine rotates, but very low compression on all cylinders (<10lbs) . Engine rotates with crank easily with no resistance from compression compared to my 30 tudor that runs. Valves open and close as they should now. Head has one crack in water jacket between cylinders 2-3. Tried another head and same results. Distributor shaft rotates. Any thoughts? Some pics of valves and cylinders. Oil in cylinders does not increase compression.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cylinders-valves-sm.jpg (65.2 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg valves1-sm.jpg (50.3 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg valves2-sm.jpg (62.6 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg valves3-s,.jpg (51.0 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg valves4-sm.jpg (41.9 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg valve-sm.jpg (26.0 KB, 56 views)
gitudor1930 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2017, 11:24 PM   #2
John
Senior Member
 
John's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 189
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

Time for a valve job.
John is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 11-13-2017, 12:00 AM   #3
40 Deluxe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,778
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

Try pull starting it. Tow it about 20-30 MPH in high gear. This will spin the engine fast enough to limber things up and get enough compression to start. Let it warm up as you watch for blow-by and leaks. Obviously, the car must be roadworthy to do this (brakes, steering, tires, etc.).
40 Deluxe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2017, 12:37 AM   #4
Mike V. Florida
Senior Member
 
Mike V. Florida's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Florida
Posts: 14,054
Send a message via AIM to Mike V. Florida
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

Replace the spark plug with an air chuck and listen for air leaks in the exhaust, intake, oil fill. This will also point to a leak.

Put some oil in the cylinders and see if the compression goes up. If yes your rings are stuck or broken. If no the valves are still a problem.
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II
Mike V. Florida is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2017, 02:38 AM   #5
michael a
Senior Member
 
michael a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lone Jack Missouri
Posts: 381
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

I'm for give it a pull. It is amazing what heat and oil will do for stuck rings!
michael a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2017, 05:44 AM   #6
Patrick L.
Senior Member
 
Patrick L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
I too would recommend a simple leakage test, doesn't take much air pressure. It looks to me as though there are some valve face/seat issues. I'd pour some ATF in the cylinders and let it soak for awhile.
Patrick L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2017, 06:39 AM   #7
Synchro909
Senior Member
 
Synchro909's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,496
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

Check your tappet clearances.
__________________
I'm part of the only ever generation with an analogue childhood and a digital adulthood.
Synchro909 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2017, 07:44 AM   #8
Sunnybrook Farm
Senior Member
 
Sunnybrook Farm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Virginia
Posts: 409
Default Re: 1930 Fordor low compression

I had a similar problem and had to lap the valves with the suction cup tool and grinding compound. It was a job since some of the valve guides wouldn't come out even with the KW tool so I just did them with the springs off rather than mess up something. I used a standard head gasket with copper spray and finally got good compression. I also put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders while the head was off and let it sit awhile before the start. My motor hadn't been run for over 20 years so all of the problem came from just sitting plus the soft valves they used back in the 50s and 60s. It needs new valves but the next guy can do that.
Sunnybrook Farm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:23 PM.