I'm at wits END Help

[sphooch]

Hi guys changing out my front spring on my 31 roadster, suppose to be a fairly easy follow the text job,so i'm told. New American made spring from Tams , did all the work on the spring , beveled the ends, slip ease, paint.etc. BUT I can't get the spring to schackel connection. the square head bolt is correct and in place,but as I tighten up the 4 castel nut it seems as though the spring eye tilts back ever so slightly so the schackel will not pass through.i removed the spring 3 x , switched it end for end its a no go. the bushings r new and all fits together when loose . any one have any ideas?? THANKS THE HOOCH

[wmws]

Maybe leave the castle nuts loose until you get the shackles in place.

[Will N]

Sound like the spring isn't seating in the cross member correctly. What if you left the castle nuts a little loose so you can insert the shackles. After reassembling the whole front end and letting the weight of the car help seat the spring in the cross member, then finish tightening the castle nuts?

[bobbader]

This is a job much more easily done with the spring not up in the crossmember, especially if the radius ball is still attached under the bell housing. It is also much easier with a spring spreader. I’m assuming you do not have a spreader. If that’s the case, drop the axle down and mount the spring to the axle before securing in the crossmember. Attach one shackle but tighten only enough to keep the castle nuts on a few threads. Thus will give you some wiggle room when it comes to aligning the other shackle. If you still can’t get it spread enough or straight enough to align the second shackle, you can mount the spring and center bolt into the crossmember, install the ubolts but again leave them loose and use a floor jack to put some pressure between the spring eye and the top of the axle. A 1X4 laud flat between the bottom of the spring eye and top of the axle may help and also keep the metal parts from slipping against each other. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL IN ANY CASE. When frustrated, walking away is wiser than getting hurt. Good luck.

Bob Bader

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by wmws

Maybe leave the castle nuts loose until you get the shackles in place.

Yes. Do it like Ford did it and assemble the front axle as a "unit." You may still have to pull it in a bit either to hit the flywheel housing ball socket OR the spring over to fit in the channel of the front cross-member. I generally like to have the ball in place and deal with the front spring "fulcrum wise" with a board.

Be sure of your supports and that your tugging won't bring it all down on top of you.


Joe K

[Synchro909]

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During the heat treatment process, sometimes a leaf will take a curve sideways or a twist. A good spring maker should check for that and correct it if they find it. Maybe your spring is like that.
If you find that to be the case, Tams should make good. It's worth checking.

[sphooch]

WOW that was fast thank for all the tips . I walked away from it right now but with this ammo I can't wait to get back into it. and yes I do have a spring spreader and will use it on my next go. thanks a lot . THE HOOCH

[rotorwrench]

Sometimes the Text you follow makes a difference. The Les Andrews Mechanics Handbook is one of the common guides. With everything, there are variations on procedure that might help. Some of the front cross members end up buggered up a good bit. If yours is good then half the battle is already won. A person has to make sure they have the correct crank bearing, U-bolts, and bottom clamp. They vary as well.

[Bruce_MO]

I frankly always take a different approach. I would have the spring disassembled, and then just install the main leaf with shackles. Then stack up the other leaves and use a long threaded rod to pull it all together. I use at least 3 or 4 c-clamps... large ones and ideally not from Harbor Freight... to pull all of the leaves together. I also wrap some chain around it to contain any unplanned events. If I go slow and pull up evenly on the rod and the clamps, it all comes together. When all is pulled up, the spring clips are installed and I remove the threaded rod and install the square head bolt. If Ive had the spring apart anyway to clean leaves, it’s just easier to do it that way in my opinion. But I don’t have a spreader. Good luck and use a lot of caution... lots of “potential energy” in springs under load

[Bruce_MO]

I frankly always take a different approach. I would have the spring disassembled, and then just install the main leaf with shackles. Then stack up the other leaves and use a long threaded rod to pull it all together. I use at least 3 or 4 c-clamps... large ones and ideally not from Harbor Freight... to pull all of the leaves together. I also wrap some chain around it to contain any unplanned events. If I go slow and pull up evenly on the rod and the clamps, it all comes together. When all is pulled up, the spring clips are installed and I remove the threaded rod and install the square head bolt. If Ive had the spring apart anyway to clean leaves, it’s just easier to do it that way in my opinion. But I don’t have a spreader. Good luck and use a lot of caution... lots of “potential energy” in springs under load

[1931 flamingo]

Is the top leaf beveled on the front and rear edge??
Paul in St Augustine til Friday

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Bruce_MO

Good luck and use a lot of caution... lots of “potential energy” in springs under load

Worthy of repeat for emphasis - but at least on the front 10 leaf spring - you don't need a spring-spreader.

As I don't have experience with a 12-leaf I can't say.

And with the "boat spring", I did have to resort to "blocks of wood" under the eye-ends to allow the spring to be squished enough for insertion of the spring shackles - but nothing a 200 lb teen-ager (then) couldn't do. I chalked up the compression which was a bit more than the old spring to "new."

The rear spring is entirely another matter.

Joe K

[rotorwrench]

Les Andrews procedure uses wood blocks but he mentions applying grease to allow the spring to spread easier. You are right about the rear. They should have a good spreader.

[jimvette59]

I assemble the front end and attach it to the ball then give the spring a shove with my foot and it jumps in.

[rocket1]

spring might have a twist in it,lay it on a flat service to see if both eyes lay flat on the floor.