Coolant Drain Pitcock Brokern Off

[FlatheadTed]

Going by the 37 I have in the shop at the moment there is very little access, its right above the cross member to the rear about a 1" clearance you cannot get a straight line for a drill or ezey out ,on a hoist there's some access from the manifold side he might be able to dermal or cut the side with a filed down hack saw blade and collapse the remains of the brass thread or just use a self tapping bolt /screw with a rubber washer and maybe a smear of sealer or a heat proof one around the bolt until he can remove the motor ,

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone, I've also broken one of these petcocks. For the '37 block I did it to, they are a brass piece threaded into the block. So, note to all others, DO NOT TWIST HARD ON THESE. The brass can be broken way below the force of steel/iron, (IDK the right term).

My block was out of the car and I was taking the petcock out of the block not loosening it for draining. Doing this repair in the car will be a real beauty of a chore. I'm leaving my butcher work to fix later, the engine was all used up and a future job is to get it back to tip-top and this is a job I will have to tackle. I've got two cars with 21 studs and block-off plates and three engines, this worn-out one will become my spare (someday).

In addition to JM's advice on loosing the trans mount, I'd advise removing the fan because it will foul on the radiator at some point if you go the route of raising the engine.

Edit to add: JB Weld in this application is seriously a bad idea in my opinion.

[tubman]

"JSerry", I have never had any luck with "EasyOuts" either. "phillipswanson" must be one hell of a mechanic to have as much success with them as he says. I must be doing something wrong; Perhaps he can post a few tips on how to use them properly.

[tiger.1000]

Snap On make a good selection of straight fluted broken stud removers

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by tiger.1000

Snap On make a good selection of straight fluted broken stud removers

I have and use the straight fluted ones, they have always worked well for me.

[philipswanson]

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Originally Posted by tubman

"JSerry", I have never had any luck with "EasyOuts" either. "phillipswanson" must be one hell of a mechanic to have as much success with them as he says. I must be doing something wrong; Perhaps he can post a few tips on how to use them properly.

It's all about using the proper size drill and center punching the broken bolt and drilling to the proper depth. Never had an issue. I have also used the fluted type EZ out made by Craftsman. They work great too. Have no idea why others have trouble unless they are using the wrong size EZ out and/or the wrong size drill.

[Jack E/NJ]

philipswanson>>>It's all about using the proper size drill and center punching the broken bolt and drilling to the proper depth>>>


Agreed. Almost like using a tap. Sorta get a feel for when it's about to break by applying too much more torque. So time to back off, check things and then back in again. Maybe not check the same things as using an EZ out. But you get the idea if you actually use taps and EZ outs often enough. EZ outs do work. But sometimes not so quickly. 8^) Jack E/NJ

[Graham Freeman]

I tried an EZ out on a broken off petcock. As it goes in it expands and it cracked the surrounding material. Had to get it brazed up.
Could try using a short piece of ground down hacksaw blade if you have room to work with it and cut thru the threads on each side , should be able to flick the bits out then.
Although

[325w]

Maybe an ez out made for plumbing. Their a bunch different the ones for bolts.